10 Pleasant Surprises in Mexico City

Have you ever spent a weekend in Mexico City?

We did just that (plus a couple days). Oh, what a fascinating city! This former capital of the Aztec Empire, and now the capital of Mexico, blew my mind with its vibrancy, pulse and breadth. We did our homework before we left, but there were still things that took us by surprise.

Parish Church of St. James the Apostle in Tlatelolco.

Interior of Parish Church of John the Baptist of Coyoacán.

1. Old churches. It seemed to me like there were old churches on every other block! And when I say old churches, I mean ones that were built in the 15― and 1600's. Most that I saw were built in either gray or off-white stone. Some were even built with stone acquired after dismantling Aztec pyramids. My favorite was San Juan Bautista in the Coyoacán neighborhood. It was completed in 1552. My favorite part about it were all the beautiful murals on the ceiling of the interior.

Old Aztec shrine on display at the Pino Suárez metro stop.

2. Pino Suárez Ruin. During our three days in Mexico City our hotel was just a block from the Pino Suárez metro stop which worked out pretty conveniently for us. On our second day, as we had already taken the escalators down to the underground, I was surprised to see an Aztec shrine displayed there. It was left in situ, with walls around it so we could look but not touch. It was discovered during the excavation and construction of the subway. While excavating the shrine they found offerings of parakeets, ducks, cranes, dogs and even infant humans. I am amazed to think of what has already been discovered beneath Mexico City, and what still remains hidden.

Street food in Mexico City. 

3. Street Food. I've been to Saigon, Phnom Penh, and Bangkok―and Mexico City might beat them all when it comes to street food and other vendors. There are carts everywhere! From tacos to tortas to tlayudas, there's a little bit of everything of the Mexican Cuisine. With the exception of one little neighborhood we visited, we found an abundance of food carts in every place we went.

Sky tram over a Mexico City neighborhood.

4. Riding a sky tram. We didn't even know that a sky tram existed in Mexico City until we were on a bus en route to Teotihuacan and saw these gondolas traveling on cables high above a densely-packed neighborhood on the outskirts of town. Right then we were determined to figure out how and where to ride them, and later that evening we did just that. Just before sunset we had the view of an eagle, which proved to be the best vista of the entire trip!

Inside the former convent of San Jerónimo.

5. Going inside a convent. Part of the plan was to walk around the former convent of San Jerónimo. It was founded in the 1,500's and was one of the first in Mexico City. I knew that it was now a university, so my plan was just to walk around and view it from the outside. Surprisingly we found a front desk with someone in it, and even more surprisingly, they let us enter the grounds as long as we stayed on the ground level. Inside we passed by gardens and courtyards, and stepped inside the old church. In one room, the coro bajo, they had years ago excavated the remains of nearly 200 nuns who used to live in the convent. The sepulchers had been placed below the floor. This was a very fascinating visit.

Leftover art from Day of the Dead.

6. Day of the Dead remnants. We visited Mexico City on November 6-8, less than a week after the country celebrated Día de Muertos. I don't know how much was left over from the holiday versus how much was part of the permanent scene, but there were artistic renditions of skeletons and skulls everywhere! We saw displays in old churches, on sidewalks, and on buildings.

Suadero tacos.

7. Suadero Tacos. Until this trip I had never heard of suadero tacos. The name refers to the meat that comes from the belly or flank of the cow, which is slowly cooked in oil and then crisped before putting into tortillas. When I bit into the meaty, crispy little chunks of beef and fat, it was pure heaven! They were my favorite tacos in Mexico City. If anyone is wondering, my second favorite taco was arranchera, and number three, al pastor.

The other side of the barricade is reserved only for women and children.

8. Women and children sections of the metro. The Mexico City metro system can be a very good option for getting from one place to another. Having said that, it can also be a little rough and crowded. Several times we were packed in cars like sardines. An environment like this is ripe for abuse. In an effort to protect against violence and sexual assault against women and children, the metro has reserved the first three carriages for them only. I think it's an excellent idea. We can also attest that it was well enforced because a few times we weren't paying attention and walked to the wrong side before getting kicked out.

Common street scene outside of the tourist area. 

9. How few tourists. I am very well aware that there has been push-back against the rise in tourism in Mexico City. And yes, we did see a fair amount around the Zócalo, Coyoacán, and especially at Teotihuacan. But for a large chunk of our stay, we saw no tourists. We used the subway to move around and didn't encounter any tourists there. We did quite a bit of walking in other parts of the city and saw very few gringos like ourselves.

Xochipilli, inside the National Museum of Anthropology. 

10. Anthropology Museum. Of course, we knew this museum would be good, but when we got there, we were pleasantly surprised with how good and big it really was, and how many artifacts it had on display. The museum has different rooms for different groups of ancient people, including the Aztec, Maya, Olmec, those at Teotihuacan, Northern Mexico, and even groups in the United States such as the Anasazi. The amount of artifacts from Mesoamerica astounded me. It wasn't just pieces of pottery and ancient tools; it was elaborate and large figurines. There was so much to see that the museum closed before we could see it all, and that was with us rushing through. I would rate this in the top five museums I've ever been to, coming behind only to places like The British Museum and The Prado.

Night market at Alameda Central.

Bonus: Night Market at Alameda Central. On our final evening (a Saturday) I was intent on finding a night market. Through our research we learned about the market at Plaza Garibaldi. It did not disappoint. We ate lots of tacos and were serenaded by mariachi bands. To return to our hotel we sought to catch the subway by walking five blocks to Alameda Central, the large park next to the Palace of Fine Arts. When we arrived, we were surprised to find another night market. I didn't see many other tourists tromping around. It was pretty much all locals. They sold food, clothing, accessories and a slew of other stuff. We didn't buy anything because we had already eaten, but we agreed that this was the perfect ending to our trip. ♠

10 Pleasant Surprises in Phoenix

I recently visited the area of Phoenix, Arizona for the first time since becoming an adult. Recently my daughter completed a mission for our church near the area of Scottsdale. She would be our guide. I didn't plan much (unlike usual), which led to many unexpected experiences. Here's a list of ten pleasant surprises we encountered. 

Mural in Downtown Phoenix.

1. Downtown Phoenix. We parked near Roosevelt and Second Street with the intention of perusing the Arts District. The place was busier than normal with a long line of people waiting to enter some sort of cannabis convention. That wasn't our thing so we continued walking and ended up in the center of town near Chase Field (home to the Arizona Diamondbacks) and below all the skyscrapers. We found an alleyway with walls covered in street art. It was a cool place to chill and take photos. 

Box of BoSa Donuts.

2. BoSa Donuts. Kaitlyn was excited to take us to this donut shop. BoSa Donuts is based in Arizona and has an amazing selection of this tasty confectionery. We stopped by a shop in Mesa and it was a relief to be away from the hustle and bustle of the more popular areas. If I lived near a BoSa, I would definitively come often as I have a weakness for donuts. 

Eating at The Beach House.

3. Eating with the Riggses. One of the great pleasures of this trip was to meet with people that Kaitlyn worked with on her mission. One such duo was Brother and Sister Riggs, an elderly missionary couple who live in the area. They met us at The Beach House on Camelback Road, a quaint joint that serves tacos and slushies. The Riggses had no problem at all talking with us. They carried on as if we had been lifelong friends. Indeed we shared a common culture and heritage which helped give us an immediate connection. They were kind, gentle, down to earth and very personable. In the end they insisted on paying for our meals and gave us all hugs as we parted. 

Top of Camelback Mountain.

4. Camelback Mountain. Since the first time Kaitlyn wrote home after climbing Camelback Mountain, I knew it was a hike on which she wanted to take me. We almost didn't get to go because parking was full and law enforcement officers were turning cars away. This hike is probably the most popular in the Phoenix area. When we finally got our turn I was impressed with the scenic vistas, saguaro cacti and relentless uphill slope of the hike. Definitely not for the weak. 

Arizona sunset.

5. Sunsets. Need I say more? We hardly saw a single cloud, but watching the sun go down behind Arizona palm trees is enough to make me nostalgic. 

Easter Pageant at the Mesa, Arizona Temple.

6. Mesa Arizona Easter Pageant. On the north lawn of the Mesa Temple of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints is held the largest annual outdoor Easter Pageant in the world. I barely knew this existed until a couple weeks before we came, and we just happened to be there for Easter weekend. I will admit that it was bigger and more impressive than I expected. Thousands were gathered on chairs and blankets to watch the pageant. The musical, which lasted slightly over an hour, included 450 actors. The production is titled Jesus the Christ, and depicts the life of the Savior from before his birth until the time of his resurrection. It was a very pleasant evening under the warm Arizona air. 

Town Lake in Tempe, Arizona.

7. Chilling at Tempe Town Lake. This wasn't planned at all. In fact, we hoped to walk through the botanical gardens, but when we learned it was $39 per person just to enter, we said no way! So we drove down the road and ended up in Tempe. The town lake is the result of damming up the Salt River and creating a lake that looks like an even bigger river. There is a park along the shore called Tempe Beach Park. We enjoyed sitting at the edge of the water and watching the boats on the lake and people walking through the park. 

Headstone of Waylon Jennings.

8. Waylon Jennings' Grave. Our purpose of going to the Mesa City Cemetery was to visit the grave of my fourth great grandfather, Joseph Ellis Johnson. He is buried in the older section. But to my great surprise I learned that country music legend, Waylon Jennings, was buried a few sections away. I used this as a teaching experience for the kids. We got their picture with the headstone and then listened to the Dukes of Hazzard theme song on the way out. 

Meeting the Juarez family.

9. The Juarez Family. Our final day in Phoenix was a Sunday and we chose to attend a Spanish-speaking congregation for Sabbath worship. There we met several people who knew my daughter and spoke fondly of her. But it was Elvira Juarez and her two daughters who spent the most time with us. We sat in the pew just behind them and talked for several minutes before the meeting started. It delighted my soul to meet people that had such a loving connection with my daughter.
 

View of Table Mesa, north of Phoenix.

10. Table Mesa Road. This was a location just north of Phoenix. We had to find a spot to change out of our Sunday clothes and I chose here, a location off the beaten path that would give us authentic scenery and privacy at the same time. We turned off the freeway onto this road and I will admit that I was a little hesitant. It looked eerily similar to the border with Mexico and I didn't want to get shot. Saguaro cactus dotted the arid hillside. Even if it was only brief, I was excited to be here. 

Arizona Canal looking back toward Camelback Mountain. (photo by Nicholas Gerbis)

Bonus: Canals. I was very surprised to see so many wide canals carrying water across the valley. How can such a hot and dry place have so much water? But the bigger intrigue came when I learned that many of these canals had ancient origins. When the first European settlers arrived in the Salt River Valley they found an extensive network of abandoned canals built over a thousand years ago by the Hohokam people. Much of this civilization remains a mystery, but archeologists now agree that it was the largest irrigation system in North America at the time. The original settlers built and expanded on this early canal system. In this manner, the Phoenix area has been an oasis for over a thousand years. ♠

10 Pleasant Surprises in Bangkok

1. Boat Taxis. Bangkok is known as Venice of the East. Amidst the temples and markets are many canals, or khlongs as they are known in Thai. Some of these khlongs are served by boat taxis, which will take you from point A to point B far quicker than any other mode of transportation. The fare is only a few cents and passengers are almost entirely composed of locals.
 
The boat pulls up to the pier, flush against a row of old tires for cushion. We step inside the boat and find a seat near the back on a wooden bench. Before leaving, a man comes around and collects the fare of 14 baht, although sometimes he does this after the boat has launched. He walks around the edge of the boat, hanging onto the ropes as he collects the money. When we take off, the boat sputters and has a hard time moving and the smell of exhaust hovers around the back. The waters on the canal are choppy from the wake of passing vessels. A tarp is pulled up at the sides to shield the splash.
 
The ride gives you a peak at the living quarters of Bangkok homes, as many back walls face the canal. You can see ladies hanging laundry or men smoking a cigarette.
 

2. Monitor Lizards. I was surprised at how many of these we saw. We found them in parks and next to rivers or canals. They are huge lizards, usually over two feet long. They crawl onto the sidewalk, into the water, and over grass. They are similar in appearance to the kimodo dragon.
 

3. Street Food. In many ways, you can't call street food in Bangkok a “surprise.” But I include it here because it surpassed all expectations. Eating street food in Thailand's capital is like feasting at a never-ending buffet. Aside from the plethora of choices at a market, there are plenty of soloist vendors working from a cart, or a hole-in-the-wall that might be a beef noodle kitchen or the “front porch” of their apartment.
 
When someone asks my favorite food, or what it tasted like, I find it difficult to ascertain. That's because I rarely tried the same dish twice. The selection of food you will find is overwhelming, from curry and kebab, to purple rice in banana leaves and ice cream on a bun. It is something you can't appreciate until you've tried it in person. There's nothing like eating a piping-hot bowl of fish ball soup at an outdoor stall on a steamy-hot Bangkok night!
 

4. Canal View. Our first night in Bangkok, we stayed at a hotel near a canal. When I booked it, I chose the less-expensive room (being the cheap-skate I am) that didn't offer a view of the canal. But when we checked in, our room wasn't available yet, so they allowed us to spend a night in one of their deluxe rooms on the third floor next to the canal. Our view the next morning was exceptional! The rising sun gleamed across the water and over the bridge, and we could see the vendors setting up market across the canal and could smell fresh fish and garlic.
 

5. The Unknown Temple. Bangkok is a Buddhist's paradise. Temples abound everywhere. The name for “temple” in Thai is wat. Around the city there are many must-see places of worship—Wat Pho, Wat Saket, Wat Traimit, Wat Phra Kaeo just to name a few. But for me, it is most exciting to walk on the grounds of a temple that goes unnoticed to the general visitor. A temple that is solely used as a place of worship.
 
One such example came one evening on the Thornburi side of the Chao Phraya River, after we had visited Wat Arun. While wandering through backstreets, we came across a temple and adjoining buildings with immaculate white walls. I coaxed Jenelle into letting me explore a little deeper and found a group of teenaged monks loitering around a set of stairs, this being their monastery or living-quarters. We observed for a couple minutes, but then left, not wanting to intrude.
 

6. 7-Eleven. Who would have thought that a convenience store would be a “pleasant surprise?” But after experiencing Thailand's sweltering heat, we quickly learned that 7-Eleven had by far the best air conditioning. They say Thailand has three seasons: hot, hotter and hottest. Walking into the store is like walking into a refrigerator. Anytime we found a 7-Eleven we would walk inside to cool off, as well as to buy an interesting bite of food.
 

7. River Walk Pier. One evening, after wandering through the flower market, we came across a series of store-fronts on the bank of the Chao Phraya River. Known as the River Walk Pier, this was a very relaxing place to spend an hour. The cool breeze was very refreshing. We admired the reflecting lights in the river and the illuminated pagodas and temple of Wat Arun on the far bank. For forty minutes we watched the boats on the river, especially the cruise boats with a full load of tourists, live band and buffet. It sounded like a party every time one passed.
 

8. The Smell of Engine Grease. I knew our last hotel was off the beaten track. I chose it because of the seventh-story view of the Chao Phraya River, which proved to be worth it. But the narrow web of roads leading to the hotel revealed a different side of Bangkok than that printed on the brochures. It distinctly smelled like grease. They sell second-hand car parts here. Walking down the street you will find heaps of metal, including engines and mufflers that belong to anything from cars to mopeds. It's like having the junkyard as close and convenient as the grocery store. Sometimes a couple men would be tending the heap, sitting next to it on a chair, smoking cigarettes and chatting. Any foreigner who walked past would get a look of suspicion. I liked this because it meant we were off the well-worn path trod by tourists.
 

9. Massage in the Park. We were minding our own business in Lumphini Park, watching a monitor lizard crawl in and out of the water, and relishing the skyline of Bankok when a cute old man approached us and offered to give a massage. He claimed he was a trainer of Muay Thai, the Thai national sport that is similar to kickboxing. This guy was very nice and reminded us of a grandfather.
 
He had us sit on a block and would tweak the nerves at our armpits and elbows, and dig his elbow into our shoulder blades. As he tweaked the nerves in our arms, he would have us hold one out straight while he said, “Good . . . good . . . good . . . not good.” Then he would adjust. He seemed to know what he was doing. He also rubbed tiger balm on our temples and neck. In the end I gave him 200 baht. I don't know if he expected payment or not, but I was glad to give it.
 

10. The Ganesha Shrine. The wide sun was just about to set through the thick smog of Bangkok when we exited to the street from Central World Mall, a gigantic shopping complex seven stories tall. The last thing I expected to see was a large ornate shrine next to the street. I counted two large and five small altarpieces with offerings of flowers and fruit in front of them and incense floating in the air.
 
One of the idols struck my attention, as I noticed it wasn't the usual Buddha statue, but an elephant-like being. I learned that it was Ganesha, one of the most worshiped deities in the Hindu pantheon, who has an elephantine countenance with a pot-belly and four arms. As we stopped to watch, we noticed both men and women taking time to pray or give offerings to “The Lord of Success.” It is believed that worshiping Ganesha can help conquer emotions, destroy evil and remove obstacles.
 
Bonus. I can't sign off without writing of our most pleasant surprise. On our first day in Bangkok, while still in the airport, I lost my credit card! For the rest of trip we worried about someone getting a hold of it and going on a shopping spree. Without an international SIM card, we weren't able to call the credit card company. But as we monitored our account online, day after day, it was never compromised. Whoever found our card was an honest person! ♠

10 Pleasant Surprises in Barcelona

1. Frederic Marès Museum.  While wandering through the Gothic Quarter (and keeping our eyes peeled for a bathroom) we stumbled across the Frederic Marès Museum. I noticed it had free entry, so I thought we could take a look and use the restrooms on our way out. We ended up spending nearly an hour in the building, which used to house the kings of Aragon and Castile. Christopher Columbus was received here upon returning from the new world. But the museum is dedicated to sculpture, particularly really old sculptures. Some date back to Iberian, Greek, and Punic culture. The largest and most impressive display comes from the large collection of crucifixes from the medieval era. Room after room exhibits carvings of the crucified Christ, often with arms broken off. 

2. Street Festival.  Probably our funnest surprise came one evening around dusk when we heard explosions from somewhere on the street. I told Kaitlyn that we had to immediately leave our hotel and investigate. Near the San Antoni Market we found the street blocked off and a party like none other. Dozens of people dressed in orange jackets held torches with sparks shooting from the top. They would run up and down the street and onto the sidewalk and scare anyone they could by brushing the torch near their feet. Others lit off fireworks that would boom and scream. The entire street was one large pyrotechnic display, with no order, but chaos. Another group of people formed a band and played music, which included steady drum beats. Then they attached twirling sparklers to a giant pig on wheels and sent it racing down the street. In the end they lit a firework display right in front of us that echoed off buildings and was so loud I had to plug my ears.

The group responsible for the din was the Diables, or Devils, de Sant Antoni. I don't know much more about the occasion other than it was a local affair, a fiesta put on by people in the neighborhood. It was quite the serendipitous moment.

3. Cathedral Rooftop.  Tucked away in a nook in the Cathedral of Santa Eulalia is a door that gives access to a small elevator. Coming across this nook had eluded me during my other visits to the cathedral. The lift takes the visitor to the roof of the church, but it might as well be another world. Not only does it bring you up-close to the gargoyles and red tiles of the roof, but gives you an expansive view of a sea of other rooftops and steeples and bell-towers that one would otherwise never see. One can also see Montjuïc, the sea, Tibidabo. We spent at least half an hour up there, pleased to gaze upon a peaceful view that I had never seen before.

4. Camp Nou.  After church on Sunday we caught the metro and had traveled two stops on the blue line when Kaitlyn remembered she had left her watch on one of the pews. We got off the train at the Collblanc stop. Knowing where we were, I told Kaitlyn we had two choices: we could immediately get on the first returning train, or we could exit the station and see Camp Nou. We chose the second option.

Camp Nou is the home stadium for the world renowned soccer team, Barcelona, or known locally as Barça. The stadium is gigantic, holding 99,354 people. We had to walk ten minutes to get there, but it was totally worth it. We walked through the store and got our pictures taken in front of a couple icons outside. We didn't go inside, or pay for the “Camp Nou Experience,” but we still got to feel a bit of the atmosphere that comes with Barcelona football.

5. The Champions.  After eating lunch in a bar one day we heard echoes of excitement coming from up the street. Immediately we sought to investigate. We found a local soccer venue and a rowdy crowd on their feet, cheering the team who had just won the championship. It was a youth team, and I don't know what championship they just won. But the team was excited, throwing their arms into the air, jumping up and down, and putting on the winner's jersey. The crowd yelled, “Olé, olé,” and chanted a victory song. I wish we had shown up a bit sooner, but we were lucky to show up at all.

6. Santa Maria del Mar.  In Barcelona, as well as about any other city in Europe, you will have the opportunity to visit many old churches. I enjoy all of them, but will admit that after a while, they all tend to blend together. One church that stands out is Santa Maria del Mar. This church began construction in the 1300's outside the city walls, as a worshiping spot for the fisherman. For me, the thing I enjoy most is the openness of the church. Doors on three sides and a plethora of stained-glass windows let in a lot of light, thus Santa Maria is much more well-lit than many of the other churches and cathedrals. The design is open, allowing for an unobstructed view of the interior. On different inscriptions are memorials to those who helped build it, as well as to the mariners to whom it was built.

7. Hotel Balcony.  When getting a hotel in Europe, especially the cheaper ones in my price range, you never know what kind of window view you will get. It may be a wall, parking lot, or empty space in the middle of the complex. Our first hotel in Barcelona was nothing to brag about on the inside, but our view out the balcony was pleasant. Our fourth-story room looked over Carrer de Josep Anselm Clave, a narrow street just a block from the harbor. Far to our right we could see the mouth of the Rambla, almost to the Columbus statue. On our left we could see the dome and angelic statue atop the Basílica de Mercè. We could hear voices of people roaming the streets, mopeds zooming, and the occasional church bell.

8. El Raval at Night.  Our final hotel was in the Raval District of Barcelona, an area once known for drug problems and prostitution. Although the city has done a good job cleaning up, it is still a little on the seedy side. Each night as we returned to our room, I chose to wander a different route through the Raval. The streets, all narrow alleyways, were well lit. Some were full of bars and nightlife, while others were devoid of people. But it was always a pleasure to walk through these streets at night and take in the sites and smells of whatever we passed. Often I would have to pull out my map to figure out where we were. I watched old ladies at midnight going on a stroll. Shop-keepers sat outside their doors chatting. Independence flags hung from balconies and occasionally I heard television coming from an open window.

9. Castellers.  I was pleasantly surprised when I learned that, following our church services we would attend on Sunday, there would be a competition of Castellers. This is a sport unique to Catalunya where teams build human towers, standing on each others shoulders, often seven levels high. It had been many years since I had watched in person. We weren't disappointed. In the municipality of Esplugues (a suburb of Barcelona) we observed three teams take turns and build some amazing “castles” as they are referred to in Catalán. There was even an upper-level terrace that led to a park where we had a birds-eye view.

10. The Magic Fountain.  On our final night in Barcelona we climbed the stairs of Montjuïc to the famed Magic Fountain. I wasn't sure what to expect. The first time I went there (during the 1992 Olympics) I as thoroughly impressed. We had been exploring some of the Olympic venues when we happened upon the fountain. I didn't know it had a name back then. Thousands of people gathered around, so we thought something exciting was about to happen. When the show began it was a booming exhibition of light and dancing water, choreographed to the song Barcelona, sung by Freddy Mercury and Montserrat Caballé. The experience has stayed with me for 26 years.

In 2001 I visited the fountain with my wife, but found it not even running. I was disappointed.

So I tried again on this last trip with my daughter. We were not disappointed. As in 1992, there were thousands gathered around the fountain. At 9:30 promptly the display began and the song Barcelona blared into the air! I turned to Kaitlyn and explained that this is exactly what I had experienced 26 years ago! ♠

10 Pleasant Surprises in Madrid

My second visit to Madrid was just a pass-by.  We had just flown to Barajas Airport and would be catching the train to Córdoba.  After what felt like a ten-mile taxi on the runway, we finally disembarked and made the long underground walk to the metro-station, towing our luggage. I wore mine over my back, while Jenelle wheeled her's behind.  

I was excited to ride the subway.  The whiz of the train and the hum of the wheels on the rails and the echo in the tunnels, all brought back nostalgia of Spain.  I felt that we had left behind the tourists of the airport and were now mingling with Madrileños on the metro.  Castilian was the preferred language here. 

We rode the pink-line to its terminus at Nuevos Ministerios, then caught the circular route for one stop and transferred to the blue-line at Cuarto Caminos.  From here, our journey to the Atocha train station moved relatively quickly.   

A subway ride is a good time to watch people.  Spaniards, in general, dress very nicely. This Wednesday morning was no exception.  Whether they were off to work, or off to the University, they wore nice dress shirts, slacks, dress-shoes, and scarfs - no jeans or t-shirts.  Most of those whom we saw that morning were younger, under age forty.  The riders sat patiently in the seats of the subway car, and when there was no room, they held to the pole near the door, or the railing that runs above the seats.

What surprised me, however, was how these Madrileños passed their time.  They didn't pull out their cell phones and begin to text or play games.  Instead, they read the morning newspaper, or they read a book. There were a few who were on their phones, but that was the minority. I was pleasantly surprised.

Madrid, like any other place in the world, is full of hidden experiences that are unique to the traveler.  Some are subtle, while others are bold.  Here are ten pleasant surprises that I discovered while wandering the streets of Madrid.

1. Elegance. Madrid reminded me a lot of Paris: balconies with cast-iron railings, Romanesque statues, and alabaster-colored palaces. No where is this more apparent than the area around Plaza de Cibeles and the Gran Vía.

The fountain of Cibeles, located in the center of a roundabout, contains the statue of the Roman goddess, Cybele, riding a chariot, being pulled by two lions. Across the street is the Palace of Cibeles, a large ornate building that once housed the Post Office. Now there is a high-end restaurant inside and tourists can pay money to view the panorama from the top.

Just up the street, forking off from the Calle de Alcalá, is the Gran Vía. Rising high between the intersection of these two streets is the Metropolis Building, crowned by a statue of the winged goddess, Victoria. The rest of the street is lined with lavishly ornate buildings, large movie theaters, hotels, and plenty of places to shop. For me, the treat was just in the watching; strolling down the street and admiring what lay in front and above me.

2. Lavapiés. On our way to visit a museum, we decided to walk through the neighborhood known as Lavapiés. This is the old Jewish Quarter and is now home to many immigrants. Devoid of the elegance of the Gran Vía , Lavapiés has a flavor all its own.

We stop in a small plaza and watch two boys from India. One boy, in a white t-shirt and baggy blue jeans, pitches a tennis ball to his friend, who hits it with a flat wooden cricket bat. This is the first time that I've ever seen anyone play cricket. After a swing and a miss, the boy pitches (or bowls) it to him again, and this time he drills it to the corner of the plaza. The boy from India, completely unaware that we are watching him, runs over to retrieve the tennis ball.

Across the plaza at a playground, two boys from Middle-Eastern decent, play ping-pong with large, yellow paddles. This is their world and their playground.

Moving further up the street, we find a curious pastry shop. We step inside and find that it is a Pakistani shop. The pastries are all foreign and look nothing like typical Spanish confectioneries. One in particular grabs our attention: it is flaky green, rolled up and sliced, with something white sprinkled over the top. They say it is made of pistachios. We buy a little selection and vow to return before our trip is over.

3. Protest in Puerta del Sol. A protest is always exciting to happen upon. This was no exception. When we entered the Puerta del Sol for the first time on our second trip, the place was shoulder to shoulder with people.

Madrid is the geographical center of Spain, and the Puerta del Sol is the geographical center of Madrid. Even without the protest, it would have been a happening place. Families were out for the nightly paseo, everyone dressed in coats and scarfs and other neat attire.

This protest attracted both Spanish and Muslim people. A man with a microphone spoke briefly to the people, then chanted a song in what appeared to be Arabic. Although still somewhat befuddled to the true purpose of the protest, I believe it had something to do with 9-11 and 3-11 (the terrorist attacks on the trains in Madrid), and getting down to the truth of who was involved. A multitude of signs waved on sticks: Democracy in Morocco; Tunisia and Egypt, free people!; Stop the murderer [accompanied with bloody pictures of dead people and a Muslim leader].

The protest was mostly peaceful. A police van parked on one side of the plaza and I saw a man sitting inside wearing handcuffs. On the other side of the plaza, a mariachi band from Mexico serenaded a small crowd.

4. Sky-tram. Near the Manzanaras River on the west side of town, there is an attraction that not many tourists know about. We found it quite by accident. It is a sky-tram that takes the rider across the railroad tracks, across the river, and over the cypress trees at the Casa de Campo. A ticket for 7 € buys a round-trip ticket.

From here we saw the skyscrapers of modern Madrid. It also gives a unique perspective of the Royal Palace, and the situation of the city on a hill. Most of the ride, however, is spent above the Casa de Campo.  It used to be the hunting grounds of the royal family. Although there is an amusement park and a zoo, the Casa de Campo appears to me much as it was several hundred years ago.

5. Thunderstorm. While wandering through the streets one evening, it began to rain. We pulled out our umbrellas, which sufficed for a moment, but soon the water came down in droves. The pelting drops came down at an angle so that we had to hold the umbrellas diagonally in front of us, attempting to maneuver the narrow walkway between the parked cars and the walls of the buildings. We could not see where we were going. Small streams began to form in the streets. Vehicles, with their headlights blaring, sped past, spewing a spray of water on us.

At last we found shelter in the entryway of a building, beneath a stone doorway. Others found this shelter with us as we all watched the storm outside. Rain roared and thunder bellowed in the near distance. We glimpsed flashes of light, but could not see the lightning bolts. A moped hurried along the cobblestone road, surely in panicked misery.

6. Petanca. Away from the Madrid found in guide books, we came across a game of petanca. Anytime you find a court with old men wearing beret's and tossing metal balls, you know that you're mingling with the locals. Petanca, closely related to the French game of boules, is popular throughout Spain. I think of it as their version of horseshoes. Although I've observed the game, I still struggle to grasp the rules. Each man has a hollow metal ball. With the concentration of a golfer, they hold the ball, palm down, and with a gentle swing of the arm, they toss it down-court, attempting to get as close as possible to a small red ball, or else to knock their opponents ball out of the way.

Watching a Petanca game is slightly awkward. They know that you are watching them. Most are old men who tend to shy away, while others are visitor-friendly. Each player has a little leather bag to hold their equipment. We found their bags hanging on nails pounded into a tree.

7. Singing Trio. While leaving El Rastro, the largest street market in Madrid, we happened across a very cute trio, ensconced on a street corner, singing music for the crowd. The old husband sat on the end, wearing a black leather jacket and playing an accordion. His head was round, eyes were round, and skin looked well-tanned with that nice Spanish complexion. His receding hairline left a swath of short gray hair that circled about his head.

His wife, very portly in figure, sat in the middle.  She wore a scarlet scarf atop her head, and a red sweater, lip stick, and carnation in her hair, that were all of the same bright color. Her hair was even dyed a purplish-red.

It must have been a son who sat on the left, he being the tocador, or guitar player. The family had a look of gypsy in them, but I wasn't completely sure. It was their singing that made them stand out. They didn't sing a single word, but instead, hummed the entire tune, like a child would who doesn't know the lyrics. Father played the accordion and son strummed the guitar. They looked at each other during the entire song with endearing gestures, chanting their song with passion. When they were done, the crowd gave them an applause, some gave money, and they moved on their way.

8. Catholic Mass. Sunday morning, we happened to pass the church of San Isidro. We observed a few people entering this 15^th century building and soon learned that mass was in session. As a curious student of all religions, I was excited to sit along-side the votaries and observe. It had been years since I had attended a Catholic Mass.

There was a lot during the mass that I didn't understand. Someone would swing a holder of smoking incense before saying a prayer, and they would intermittently sing hymns. At one point, most of the people stood up and recited a prayer.

The mass was very uplifting. Most of the people there were not tourists. Jesus Christ and his resurrection were mentioned several times. We were surrounded on all sides by images and statues of Christ and his life. The organ was beautiful and occasionally the congregation would sing. Most of those who attended were elderly, but there were some youth also.

9. Francisco de Goya. The Prado Museum is one of the greatest in the world. Of all the great artists whose work lie within its wall, those of Francisco de Goya were the most impressionable. The Third of May 1808 is a painting that depicts the Spanish resistance to Napoleon's army. With the dead piling on the ground, a man dressed in a white shirt, glowing in appearance, stands in surrender with his arms to the air while the French army points their bayonets at him.

But it is Goya's Black Paintings that stood out the most to me. These are a group of fourteen pictures that he painted during the darkest period of his life. These paintings portray haunting themes. Saturn Devouring His Son depicts an insane man with long gray hair biting off the body of a naked corpse. For me, a great painting is one that makes an impression that doesn't leave my mind. Most of Goya's works did just that. Before visiting the museum, Goya's name was one that had scarcely sounded familiar. Now, it is one that demands respect and awe, and a name that I will never forget.

As a side-note, Goya is also buried in Madrid. His remains abide in the Royal Chapel of St. Anthony of the Florida, a structure on the Manzanares River. When we traveled there to pay tribute, the chapel was closed. We had to be satisfied with a statue outside the chapel that commemorates the artist.

10. Train to Seville. High speed trains in Europe have had the ability to drastically shrink travel times between cities. The AVE, from Madrid to the southern charm of Seville, will take two and a half hours. If you wanted to make a day-trip out of it (which I would not recommend because Seville has too much to do in just one day), you could certainly do it. There are twenty-three trains every day that leave the Atocha Station, our one-way ticket costing 84 € each. Inside, the coaches are spacious, smooth, and comfortable. The scenery along the way isn't superb, but that doesn't matter because once you are in Seville, the scenery is amazing. According to my rough calculations, a 330 mile trip to Seville, lasting two and a half hours, not even including the one or two stops in between, would put the train traveling at least 132 mph.