Culinary Crusade in Catalonia

The cuisine of Spain has been of particular interest to me over the last thirty years. I lived in the area of Catalonia, Valencia and Mallorca for two years. Since then I have traveled back a handful of times to those same areas and also Central Spain and Andalusia. 

I have discovered that the cuisine in this Mediterranean country is among the best—and overlooked—in the world. Health benefits of the Mediterranean Diet are widely touted, but they are usually associated with Greece and Italy. I ask, why not Spain? 

Life expectancy in this Iberian country is the seventh-highest in the world. I would attribute much of this to diet. 

The Spanish eat five meals a day. Common ingredients include vegetables, legumes, garlic, olive oil, chorizo and smoked paprika. Most meals begin with a first course of soup or salad. Dessert is less common, and usually not so rich as the American fare. Typical examples are fruit, yogurt, flan or Maria cookies with herbal tea. 

Typical shop selling Spanish cured ham.

I have learned that there is a difference between what is served at home verses what is served in restaurants. Of course, there is an overlap of the two, but restaurants are more likely to serve popular foods such as paella and tapas. Inside someone's home you're more likely to get a fideo soup, garbanzo stew, or something with chunks of blood sausage. 

Food in Spain is very regional. Although paella is the national dish, it hails from Valencia. Fabada is a distinctive bean stew with blood sausage from Asturias. The Basque are noted for their tapa-like pintxos. Gazpacho reigns in Andalusia. The coastal areas favor fish and seafood. 

Butifarra is a typical sausage of Catalonia.

Arroz a la Cubana is a popular dish in the Canary Islands and Catalonia.

On a recent trip to Spain I returned to the area of Catalonia with my daughter. As always, I set out to find as much local food as possible. With the exception of one meal, we would be eating in bars and restaurants. 

On our first evening in Barcelona we ate at a quaint restaurant near the Gothic Quarter. Since it was Kaitlyn's first meal in Spain, she went for the iconic dish of paella. I, however, ordered a more regional meal, one that is certainly difficult to make at home: arròs negre, or black rice. 

Arròs negre is a dish with a hint of sweetness and chunks of squid. It is blackened using liquid from the squid's ink sack. 

Black rice on the left and paella on the right.

Years ago I had a lady make this for me in her home. With a notebook I diligently copied down every ingredient and every action needed to complete the dish. When it came time to add the ink I asked, “Where can I find that?” 

She looked at me puzzled and responded, “At the store, of course!” 

Little did she know that most stores in the U.S. don't sell squid ink. [The one time at home I followed this recipe I had to special-order the squid and then order prepackaged squid ink from Spain. It was a lot of hassle.] 

Kaitlyn and I enjoyed our meal. It also came with a sampling of tapas, which included patatas bravas (bite-size baked potatoes with a spicy sauce), roasted padrón peppers, sauteed chicken, fried anchovies, and calamari rings. I noted that most of the tapas I saw in Catalonia did not come served on a slice of bread like those I had seen in other provinces. 

Sampling of tapas.

My culinary crusade consisted not only of eating food, but looking at it also. One of the great pleasures of Spain is found in visiting food markets. 

We walked through the Mercat de Santa Caterina, a market just east of the Gothic Quarter near Via Laietana. The journey was both visionary, as well as olfactory. We walked through a large warehouse-sized building past colorful stacks of fruits and vegetables. Hanging from the shops were legs of ham, with their unique scent of cured and salty meat. Entire bodies of fish and prawns sat atop tables of ice. Somewhere from another corner of the market wafted the aroma of freshly baked bread. 

We found a place here to sit and eat a bocadillo, or “little mouthful” as it is literally translated from Spanish. These sandwiches are typical in Spain, made using French baguettes. I ordered a jamón y queso—a ham and cheese sandwich. Although simple in contents, the sandwich offered a flavorful punch. The ham was a cured Spanish jamón, thinly sliced and similar to Italian prosciutto. They may have squeezed half a tomato onto the bread and added a drizzle of olive oil, but that was it. Pretty simple. 

Vegetable stand in the Mercat de Santa Caterina.

Seafood on a table of ice.

One of my favorite meals was consumed at an outdoor cafe in Tarragona, which is about an hour south of Barcelona. Tarragona is famous for its Roman ruins, in particular an amphitheater and aqueduct. It sits alongside the sea to create a picturesque setting. 

But for this midday meal we sat at a table in the Old Quarter atop a narrow cobblestone street. For our first course I had melon and jamón, a salty and sweet combination. Kaitlyn ordered calamares a la Romana, a staple at many restaurants that are basically fried squid rings. 

Calamares a la Romana with a salad.

A perfect combination of sweet melon and cured Spanish ham.

For my next course I chose morcilla con cebolla (or blood sausage with onion) with grilled asparagus and french fries. The blood sausage is definitely an acquired taste and has a soft texture that is unique. Usually in the preparation stage the sausages are made by mixing blood with either onions or rice.

Nearly every meal on this trip was served with french fries, which seemed to happen far more often than it did thirty years ago. I'm assuming they are catering to tourists. Fries in Spain don't come with ketchup. They are usually served plain or with mayo. 

Kaitlyn ate bacalao (cod) in tomato sauce. Afterward we drank a small cup of manzanilla (chamomile) tea. 

Kaitlyn eats cod in tomato sauce.

Morcilla, or blood sausage, served with fries and asparagus.

It is interesting to note the impact immigration has had on food in Catalonia. Like much of Europe, they have experienced a huge influx of people from the Middle East and North Africa. Not only do these people set up shops to sell their wares, but they open food establishments that sell items such as doner kebabs, something I had never encountered in the nineties. Sometimes a restaurant will sell authentic Spanish food, but it is owned and cooked by Muslims. 

As I stated earlier, we ate one of our meals with a family in their home. Teo, Enric and their daughter, Marta, are friends of mine from my stay in 1994. They live in Girona, a staunch Catalan city located an hour from the border with France. 

Horchata in Spain is made from the chufa nut and differs in taste from that in Mexico.

After a full day of driving us around to different sites in the area, we stopped at their apartment to cenar. In Spain the cena is the final meal of the day, usually being lighter than their heavy midday meal. Spain is also noted for staying up and eating late. Hence it was about 10 pm when we began to eat. 

Teo set out a wonderful array of food across the table. We found an arrangement of jamón, green olives, pork loin, tuna, roasted red peppers and cheese. She also made a French omelette. 

An array of food in the home of Teo and Enric.

We ate while carrying conversation, covering such topics as immigration in Spain and local eating and sleeping habits. It is interesting to note that although Spaniards eat five meals a day, they are lean and have very low obesity rates. I attribute this to their healthy ingredients, as well as the fact that they still attempt to eat together, making meals a social event rather than a stuff-yourself-full event. 

Fresh fish is common along the Mediterranean coast.

We spent our final day trying to take in as much as we could and enjoy our final hours. As far as eating was concerned, I had one last request. 

In the Raval District of Barcelona we found an obscure hole-in-the-wall style restaurant. I remember there being brick walls and tables set up along the window, with a one-foot gap at the bottom to allow air form outside to flow in. 

We came to eat churros y chocolate, a treat in Spain that should never be missed. The churros are usually curly, without as much cinnamon as the Mexican version. The chocolate is thick, nearly the consistency of mud. It is eaten by dipping churros into the chocolate. 

We savored every bite that evening. Although I have occasionally made these at home, there is something special about eating under humid Mediterranean air, late at night with conversation all around us in Castillian Spanish or Catalan. 

By the time we finished and returned to our room it was 2 am. ♠

 

Churros y chocolate.

 

A Photographic Essay of Barcelona

Barcelona, Spain is one of my favorite cities in the world. Since the 1992 Olympics, it has gradually become one of the most popular destinations on the globe. When I first visited this Catalan Capital in the early nineties, few people were familiar with it. Yet now, it is not uncommon for acquaintances and friends to have this be the site of their summer vacation. 

There is more to Barcelona than meets the eye. There are more than beaches, tapas and the iconic Basilica of the Sagrada Familia. In its depth, there is a culture that outsiders seldom see. There are streets outside the tourist zone where foreigners rarely tread. Bubbling behind the surface is also an independence movement that at times has sparked violence. 

I returned to Barcelona a few years ago with my daughter. Part of my goal was to show her as much of the city and its culture as possible, both known and hidden. What follows is a story of Barcelona through the lens of a camera.

 

Carrer de la Volta dels Tamborets in El Born District.

Església de Santa Maria de Montalegre de Barcelona.

Detail of Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar.

Local street festival.

L'Estel Ferit, a contemporary sculpture on San Miguel Beach.

Competition of human towers.

Tombs of Ramon Berenguer I and his wife, Almodis, in the Cathedral of Saint Eulalia.

Detail on Basilica of the Sagrada Familia.

Pockmarks from the Spanish Civil War on the walls of the church of Sant Felip Neri.

Sculpture of a child's face.

View of Montjuïc from roof of the Cathedral.

Palau de la Música Catalana.

Cathedral of Barcelona.

Street in El Raval at Midnight.

Barcelona Metro.

Palace of the Balmesiana in the Plaça del Vuit de Març.

“Woman and Bird” sculpture by Catalan artist, Joan Miró.

Casa Milà, a building designed by Catalan architect, Antoni Gaudí.

The Champions.

Sant Pau del Camp, a former church and monastery from the 12th century.

Montjuïc Cemetery.

Plaça d'Espanya.

Camp Nou, home stadium of Barcelona Football Club.

Church of Sant Llàtzer in the Plaça del Pedró, El Raval.

A silent protest for political prisoners.

Street performer in the Gothic Quarter.

Sculpture of La Gamba (the shrimp) located on a walkway next to the sea.

Words written on a tree to memorialize a terrorist attack on the Rambla in 2017 which killed 13 and wounded 130.

Fragment of Roman aqueduct in Barcelona.

Saint George (patron Saint of Catalonia) killing the dragon.

Statue of Columbus pointing toward the New World.

Human Towers of Catalonia

A crowd gathers in the Plaza of Fort Pienc in Barcelona. Most are wearing white trousers, with a blue shirt and black sash fastened around the waist to support their back. Six strong and burly men come together to form the base of the tower. Behind them a throng of supporters lean into the men, adding strength to the base. This bulk of people is called the pinya. They support an amazing amount of weight. 

Now the tower begins. 

On three or four sides of the pinya there is a line of people waiting their turn to go up. The second level now begins to climb. They too are strong men. Someone kneels on the outer edge of the pinya, with one leg placed so the men climbing can use it as a step. They step on the thigh, then climb onto the backs of the pinya. At last, they stand on the shoulders of the six burly men, and clasp arms. Their bare feet feel for balance. Their collars turn upward and they bite down on the corners. This has a dual purpose: to keep their shirts from sliding when someone steps on their shoulders, and to ease or divert the pain of holding so much weight. 

Team members climb into position to build the tower.

Now, the second level is complete. Three players begin to play a tune on a gralla and tabal, a traditional Catalonian wind instrument and drum. 

A third and fourth level now begins to assemble. Each person steps across the pinya and climbs up the trunk. They grasp onto shoulders, thighs, heads, hips and use their bare feet to find any possible nook to plant their step. They dig toes, finding a foot-hold, into the black sashes. With each succeeding layer, the climbers become lighter. 

It is unnerving to watch them ascend, knowing the distance of the fall should they collapse. As they climb they cling tightly to the body they are using as a ladder. Sometimes they struggle at the final heights, having to regroup strength. Each level is braced in concentration, shaking and wobbling from the excruciating weight. 

Each level is braced in concentration, shaking and wobbling from the excruciating weight.

A throng of supporters lean into the pinya.

The tower is now six levels high. The very highest levels consist of mere children. But these are no ordinary kids. They have courage that would soar much higher than that of most adults. 

Two boys climb to the very top and clasp arms. Another, called the aixecador, climbs atop them and squats, with one foot on each of the boys. 

Then comes the enxaneta, or rider. She is the crown of the tower. With agility and courage that would make anyone jealous, she climbs atop the aixecador and raises her hand. The tower is complete! The crowd bursts into applause. 

A tower nears completion.

The aixecador raises her hand, signaling completion of the tower.

Now all is left is to dissemble the tower. Sometimes this is the most dangerous part. Level by level, the team slides down the tower as if they were slithering down a pole. When the last person is down and the pinya broken apart, the gralla and tabal stop the music. Mission accomplished! They congratulate one another, patting on the shoulder and giving hugs. 

I first learned of the Castellers in December 1992 while living in Reus, Spain. My friend knew a family who was part of a colla, or team. We watched them rehearse one evening inside an old building—one with a high ceiling. 

The following week we watched them compete in Cambrils, a town just a short distance away by bus. Their team name was the Xiquets de Reus, and they performed in the town plaza, wearing traditional garb of white trousers, black sashes and tan-colored shirts. I watched them build towers that appeared taller than those constructed during the rehearsal. I was impressed. I remember the plaza being crowded with people, and onlookers standing on the balconies of the apartment buildings surrounding the plaza. 

The gralla and tabal are played during the tower's construction.

That evening we ate dinner with the family and I recall sitting down at the table with the brother, who was strong and burly and stood as part of the pinya during the competition. 

Since then I have continued to be obsessed with these human towers. It is a cultural tradition that is unique to Catalonia, Spain. I have seen it nowhere else in the world. 

Every city, and in some cases, every neighborhood has its own colla. Throughout the summer and at festivals they will hold their competitions in various locations. Two or three teams will display their talent and courage by making the tallest or largest tower. 

A human tower in Barcelona.

I have come to Barcelona this summer with my daughter, Kaitlyn. I purposely sought out two different competitions. This was the first true competition I have witnessed since 1992. 

We walk eight blocks from the Sagrada Familia (brimming and chaotic with tourists) to the Plaça del Fort Pienc, a modern square full of people, but no tourists. What a refreshing sight! We have time to stop in Mercadona and buy a treat. 

It is fascinating to mingle with the teams and supporters and observe their preparations. They wear uniforms consisting of white pants and a team-colored shirt, usually in long sleeves rolled up past their elbows. I witness several members, including women, change into their shirts right there in the plaza. Several wear bandanas over their head, usually a team-styled bandana. 

Sashes help provide back support.

Fun times hanging out before competition.

They tightly wrap a long black faja, or sash, about a foot and a half wide, around their waist and back. One person holds the loose end while the one putting it on slowly rotates like a spool until it is firmly around his waist and tucked in. This acts as a back brace. Sometimes they use one or two bandanas to keep it secure. 

Members of all sizes mingle around, from large and husky men to young girls who wear helmets and chase around their friends. We mingle with members of Sant Cugat, who support their team with a table selling t-shirts, bandanas and bookmarks. 

The time to build the first tower has now arrived. A crowd now gathers to form the pinya. Onlookers like myself stand and observe, some taking pictures. Even the youngest are moving into position. Two girls, nearly eight years old, get carried piggy-back style to the edge of the pinya where they will soon walk on top of shoulders and climb up the tower. 

Young girls wait their turn to climb the tower.

The first level is made, then the second, and then comes the music to serenade levels three, four, five, six and seven. Making it look easy, the aixecador summits the tower and raises her hand. Then they dissemble, level by level, and meet an enthusiastic applause from the crowd. 

We watch this process over and over. The three teams take turns, and with each turn make their own unique tower. There appears to be no rivalry, and I don't even know how this competition is “tallied.”

When we leave I know that I have witnessed a truly local event, steeped in culture. 

Statue honoring castellers in Tarragona, Spain.

The castell is a cultural icon of Catalonia. It can be viewed as a symbol of Catalan nationalism. It brings a sense of pride and helps unite a people who are growing weary of the Spanish government and have created their own separatist movement. 

The human towers likely have their origin in the muixeranga of Algemesi, in the province of Valencia. This was a religious festival that built towers to honor the “Mother of God of Health,” also known as the Virgin Mary. 

Human tower in Esplugues, a suburb of Barcelona.

The first recorded instance of human towers in Catalonia comes from the city of Valls, just north of Tarragona. First documented in 1712, it soon spread to other surrounding areas. By the early 1800's groups were being formed in the area around Tarragona. 

During the International Exhibition of 1929 in Barcelona, the first castells were built using the current attire of colored shirts, white pants, sashes and bandanas. 

Following the repression of the Franco years, Catalan nationalism has made a resurgence, along with the castell. 

The pinya.

Building a tower takes large levels of concentration.

The higher the levels, the younger the children.

The following day, Kaitlyn and I gear up for our second round of human towers. It is Sunday, and we are lucky because there happens to be a competition near the church we will be attending. 

We take the blue metro line to Esplugues, and after attending church we wander out and find a wide promenade lined with trees. A large crowd has gathered and a team of castellers are gathering to begin a tower. There are three groups competing here. I notice an ambulance parked here just in case of a fall. We watch from an elevated structure for a better view. 

These single towers are called pillars.

For an hour we joyfully watch the towers being built. Each one is unique. On one of them a tower is built inside a tower. After the outer “shell” is complete, it is disassembled, leaving a single column that was simultaneously built within, but hidden from our view. 

We are very satisfied by the time we leave. 

Most people who come to Barcelona spend their time touring the Sagrada Familia, Parc Güell and the beach. But we are in Esplugues surrounded by no tourists, watching local people do what they've done for centuries. 

This is the true Catalonia. ♠