Human Towers of Catalonia

A crowd gathers in the Plaza of Fort Pienc in Barcelona. Most are wearing white trousers, with a blue shirt and black sash fastened around the waist to support their back. Six strong and burly men come together to form the base of the tower. Behind them a throng of supporters lean into the men, adding strength to the base. This bulk of people is called the pinya. They support an amazing amount of weight. 

Now the tower begins. 

On three or four sides of the pinya there is a line of people waiting their turn to go up. The second level now begins to climb. They too are strong men. Someone kneels on the outer edge of the pinya, with one leg placed so the men climbing can use it as a step. They step on the thigh, then climb onto the backs of the pinya. At last, they stand on the shoulders of the six burly men, and clasp arms. Their bare feet feel for balance. Their collars turn upward and they bite down on the corners. This has a dual purpose: to keep their shirts from sliding when someone steps on their shoulders, and to ease or divert the pain of holding so much weight. 

Team members climb into position to build the tower.

Now, the second level is complete. Three players begin to play a tune on a gralla and tabal, a traditional Catalonian wind instrument and drum. 

A third and fourth level now begins to assemble. Each person steps across the pinya and climbs up the trunk. They grasp onto shoulders, thighs, heads, hips and use their bare feet to find any possible nook to plant their step. They dig toes, finding a foot-hold, into the black sashes. With each succeeding layer, the climbers become lighter. 

It is unnerving to watch them ascend, knowing the distance of the fall should they collapse. As they climb they cling tightly to the body they are using as a ladder. Sometimes they struggle at the final heights, having to regroup strength. Each level is braced in concentration, shaking and wobbling from the excruciating weight. 

Each level is braced in concentration, shaking and wobbling from the excruciating weight.

A throng of supporters lean into the pinya.

The tower is now six levels high. The very highest levels consist of mere children. But these are no ordinary kids. They have courage that would soar much higher than that of most adults. 

Two boys climb to the very top and clasp arms. Another, called the aixecador, climbs atop them and squats, with one foot on each of the boys. 

Then comes the enxaneta, or rider. She is the crown of the tower. With agility and courage that would make anyone jealous, she climbs atop the aixecador and raises her hand. The tower is complete! The crowd bursts into applause. 

A tower nears completion.

The aixecador raises her hand, signaling completion of the tower.

Now all is left is to dissemble the tower. Sometimes this is the most dangerous part. Level by level, the team slides down the tower as if they were slithering down a pole. When the last person is down and the pinya broken apart, the gralla and tabal stop the music. Mission accomplished! They congratulate one another, patting on the shoulder and giving hugs. 

I first learned of the Castellers in December 1992 while living in Reus, Spain. My friend knew a family who was part of a colla, or team. We watched them rehearse one evening inside an old building—one with a high ceiling. 

The following week we watched them compete in Cambrils, a town just a short distance away by bus. Their team name was the Xiquets de Reus, and they performed in the town plaza, wearing traditional garb of white trousers, black sashes and tan-colored shirts. I watched them build towers that appeared taller than those constructed during the rehearsal. I was impressed. I remember the plaza being crowded with people, and onlookers standing on the balconies of the apartment buildings surrounding the plaza. 

The gralla and tabal are played during the tower's construction.

That evening we ate dinner with the family and I recall sitting down at the table with the brother, who was strong and burly and stood as part of the pinya during the competition. 

Since then I have continued to be obsessed with these human towers. It is a cultural tradition that is unique to Catalonia, Spain. I have seen it nowhere else in the world. 

Every city, and in some cases, every neighborhood has its own colla. Throughout the summer and at festivals they will hold their competitions in various locations. Two or three teams will display their talent and courage by making the tallest or largest tower. 

A human tower in Barcelona.

I have come to Barcelona this summer with my daughter, Kaitlyn. I purposely sought out two different competitions. This was the first true competition I have witnessed since 1992. 

We walk eight blocks from the Sagrada Familia (brimming and chaotic with tourists) to the Plaça del Fort Pienc, a modern square full of people, but no tourists. What a refreshing sight! We have time to stop in Mercadona and buy a treat. 

It is fascinating to mingle with the teams and supporters and observe their preparations. They wear uniforms consisting of white pants and a team-colored shirt, usually in long sleeves rolled up past their elbows. I witness several members, including women, change into their shirts right there in the plaza. Several wear bandanas over their head, usually a team-styled bandana. 

Sashes help provide back support.

Fun times hanging out before competition.

They tightly wrap a long black faja, or sash, about a foot and a half wide, around their waist and back. One person holds the loose end while the one putting it on slowly rotates like a spool until it is firmly around his waist and tucked in. This acts as a back brace. Sometimes they use one or two bandanas to keep it secure. 

Members of all sizes mingle around, from large and husky men to young girls who wear helmets and chase around their friends. We mingle with members of Sant Cugat, who support their team with a table selling t-shirts, bandanas and bookmarks. 

The time to build the first tower has now arrived. A crowd now gathers to form the pinya. Onlookers like myself stand and observe, some taking pictures. Even the youngest are moving into position. Two girls, nearly eight years old, get carried piggy-back style to the edge of the pinya where they will soon walk on top of shoulders and climb up the tower. 

Young girls wait their turn to climb the tower.

The first level is made, then the second, and then comes the music to serenade levels three, four, five, six and seven. Making it look easy, the aixecador summits the tower and raises her hand. Then they dissemble, level by level, and meet an enthusiastic applause from the crowd. 

We watch this process over and over. The three teams take turns, and with each turn make their own unique tower. There appears to be no rivalry, and I don't even know how this competition is “tallied.”

When we leave I know that I have witnessed a truly local event, steeped in culture. 

Statue honoring castellers in Tarragona, Spain.

The castell is a cultural icon of Catalonia. It can be viewed as a symbol of Catalan nationalism. It brings a sense of pride and helps unite a people who are growing weary of the Spanish government and have created their own separatist movement. 

The human towers likely have their origin in the muixeranga of Algemesi, in the province of Valencia. This was a religious festival that built towers to honor the “Mother of God of Health,” also known as the Virgin Mary. 

Human tower in Esplugues, a suburb of Barcelona.

The first recorded instance of human towers in Catalonia comes from the city of Valls, just north of Tarragona. First documented in 1712, it soon spread to other surrounding areas. By the early 1800's groups were being formed in the area around Tarragona. 

During the International Exhibition of 1929 in Barcelona, the first castells were built using the current attire of colored shirts, white pants, sashes and bandanas. 

Following the repression of the Franco years, Catalan nationalism has made a resurgence, along with the castell. 

The pinya.

Building a tower takes large levels of concentration.

The higher the levels, the younger the children.

The following day, Kaitlyn and I gear up for our second round of human towers. It is Sunday, and we are lucky because there happens to be a competition near the church we will be attending. 

We take the blue metro line to Esplugues, and after attending church we wander out and find a wide promenade lined with trees. A large crowd has gathered and a team of castellers are gathering to begin a tower. There are three groups competing here. I notice an ambulance parked here just in case of a fall. We watch from an elevated structure for a better view. 

These single towers are called pillars.

For an hour we joyfully watch the towers being built. Each one is unique. On one of them a tower is built inside a tower. After the outer “shell” is complete, it is disassembled, leaving a single column that was simultaneously built within, but hidden from our view. 

We are very satisfied by the time we leave. 

Most people who come to Barcelona spend their time touring the Sagrada Familia, Parc Güell and the beach. But we are in Esplugues surrounded by no tourists, watching local people do what they've done for centuries. 

This is the true Catalonia. ♠