The Ultimate Chinatown—Bangkok!

We step off the boat at Ratchawong Pier and into a different world. Men push loaded carts down the road while ladies grill food at a stall. Buildings appear a generation older and the din on the street is pure chaos. I feel as if we've traveled back in time fifty years, but in reality we have just entered the Chinese district of Bangkok.
 
This area has been home to the Chinese community for over two hundred years when they were dislocated after King Rama I built a new palace. They moved downriver to the Sampeng area, occupying a large area roughly between the Chao Phraya River and Charoen Krung (New Road). This space is now densely packed with shophouses and street vendors, sprawling through a complex web of alleyways.
 

Sampeng Lane.

We turn right and enter Sampeng Lane, a very narrow alley congested with shops and merchandise spilling onto the walkway. There is so little room that we have to constantly turn side-ways as we pass the oncoming crowd. Ahead is an old blind lady with a contraption on her shoulders that holds a microphone, as well as a bucket for money. She sings a beautiful high-pitched song as she walks along the narrow passageway, but walks slowly and holds up the line.
 
Everything seems to be sold here: stuffed animals, toys, t-shirts, baby clothes, purses. Merchandise is stacked high and shade canopies hang over the doorways. Sometimes it is easy to forget that we are outside because the sky is but a fleeting suggestion above us.
 
We cross another bisecting street, this one a bit wider, but still packed with vendors. Many of these are selling street food. Skinny men with dark leather faces and gray hair push carts heaping with fresh vegetables. Ladies with aprons grill bananas over a charcoal flame or fry balls of dough in simmering oil.
 

Yaowarat Road.

A mess of wires over Yaowarat Road.

Not far away we arrive at Yaowarat Road, the main corridor through Chinatown. Here now we have vehicular traffic. Taxis and tuk-tuks vie for position. Perhaps there is enough space for two lanes of traffic, but it is a dog-fight to eek forward wherever you can. Tall signs in either Thai script or Chinese hang from the buildings. Electrical wires drape across the road.
 
Chinese influence on Thai culture has been immense. Since the fourteenth century the area of present-day Thailand has seen several waves of Chinese immigration and intermarriage to the point that there is Chinese blood in almost every Thai citizen, including the king. Chinese-Thai business interests play an enormous roll in the Thai economy. This is played out in Chinatown where real estate is some of the most expensive in the country.
 
It is interesting that Yaowarat Road is lined with over 130 gold shops. It is the world's largest market for hand-made gold ornaments, supplying demands in Dubai, Singapore, Hong Kong, Europe and the United States. As curious tourists, we decide to step inside a gold shop to see what they are all about (obviously not to buy). No sooner do we enter the doors than a gentleman whisks us out, stating that we have to be members to enter the premise.
 

Hidden alleyway.

Running perpendicular to Yaowarat Road is another narrow alleyway. Vendors line both sides of the passage, standing behind tables topped with exotic spices, fruits and salted fish. Most of the tags are in Thai or Chinese and I don't know the name of anything. One man sells a variety tea, the dried herbs piled in bins. Alongside are a selection of tea kettles.
 
Walking down this lane is almost like walking through a tunnel with numerous cave-houses built into the side. I say that because this street is a narrow gap between buildings and the canopies of the vendors are drawn out, blocking much of the light. When walking past you will notice that some of the openings are portals into dark shophouses. It's like you are visiting an ant colony with so many people, so many smells and noises, yet all you can do is walk past and hope you can take in at least a portion.
 

Leng Buai Ia Shrine.

At the far end of our dark alleyway, we see an opening with the bright noon-day sun shining down. We explore this new open-space and find a courtyard to a Chinese temple. My first observation is the difference between this temple and the more traditional temples in Thailand that have white walls and multi-tiered orange roofs with golden lamyongs flaring from the ends.
 
This temple is in the Chinese style. The roof is made of glazed colored tile and on top are two stuccoed dragons facing each other. The columns in front of the entrance are also decorated with stuccoed dragons. Inside is a shrine with a sculpture of a man and his wife, along with other deity and a couple dozen figurines. A plaque informs us that this is an ancient Tae Chew shrine that is possibly 300 years old and the oldest Chinese shrine in Thailand.
 
Bangkok is a crazy jungle of urban confusion. You can find any surprise around the next corner. How many unexpected shrines like this can you find in Chinatown? Who knows? Walking down the street is like living in a choose-your-own-adventure book and at every junction you are faced with the decision: do I turn right or left, or keep going straight? Whatever decision you make will bring a new experience.
 

Wat Mangkon Kamalawat.

The sage on the left holds a parasol, the sage on the right a snake's head. 

After wandering through the maze of streets for another twenty minutes we come to another Chinese temple, this one bigger and more well-known than the last. It is named Wat Mangkon Kamalawat.
 
There are several shrines within this temple and many devotees kneel and offer obeisance. Incense flows to the sky. Citrus is offered at the alters. This is a Mahayana Buddhist temple, which fuses several ancient beliefs, including Confucianism and Taoism. Chinese lanterns hang from the ceilings and golden sages watch forbiddingly. Elsewhere in the compound are medicine stalls, booths selling devotional paraphernalia and a fortune-teller.
 

On the fringe of Chinatown.

Heaps of used machinery in Talat Noi, a section of Chinatown.

For our final four days in Bangkok we stay at a hotel overlooking the Chao Phraya River on the fringe of Chinatown. Squeezed between other drab buildings, the hotel is very inconspicuous and would be nearly unrecognizable as a place of accommodation without the green awning draped at the front. Just below our hotel, pretty much at the side of a parking garage, is a Chinese Temple. Outside hang red Chinese globes and inside I can hear people singing or chanting. I don't dare go in. The temple is very simple, and if you aren't right there, you won't even notice it. Nearby a small shrine displays several Buddhist figurines, as well as flowers and incense sticks. A small sign is in both Chinese and Thai.
 
The neighborhood around our hotel smells like grease. This is because they sell second-hand car parts here. Walking down the street there are heaps of metal, including engines and mufflers that belong to anything from cars to mopeds. It's like having the junkyard as close and convenient as the grocery store. Sometimes a couple men will be tending the heap by sitting next to it on a chair, smoking cigarettes and talking. Any foreigner who walks past will get a look of suspicion. This area is known as Talat Noi and used to be the site of ice factories, saw mills, rice mills and shipyards. Scraps from these places were collected and sold. Nowadays it is a center for used machinery and motors.
 

The Golden Buddha.

Also located on the periphery of Chinatown is Wat Traimit, a Thai-styled Buddhist temple that is home to the Golden Buddha—the largest solid gold Buddha in the world.
 
It is an interesting story of how the Golden Buddha arrived at Wat Traimit. The image was cast in the thirteenth century. During the rein of Rama III (1824-1851) it was brought to Bangkok, but to conceal its value to would-be thieves it was encased in stucco. It wasn't until 1955 when being transported to its current location at Wat Traimit that a crack in the stucco revealed the true nature of what lied beneath. It was then restored to its original glory.
 
The lustrous Golden Buddha sits on a white marble lotus-pad surrounded with offerings of lotus flowers. The Buddha sits with the right leg folded over the left; his left hand lies in his lap with the palm upward while the right hand rests on his knee with fingertips facing the earth. The statue weighs 5.5 tons and from weight alone is valued over ten million dollars. It is very fitting that the Golden Buddha would reside in Chinatown, home to one of the world's largest gold markets.
 

Yaowarat Road at night.

It is now one of our final nights in Bangkok and after a wild tuk-tuk ride we are back on Yaowarat Road. Neon signs flash overhead and below all traffic is at a crawl. The gold shops have all closed their doors and rolled down the metal gates, but now in front of them are vendors selling food. Trays with mounds of green and red chili peppers are on a table in the middle of a sidewalk. Next to them are buckets of rice and a cauldron for cooking noodles. A sweaty lady labors to cook food for the waiting crowd. Men sit on plastic chairs and enjoy a savory dish.
 
Trying to maneuver through the streets and around the traffic and stalls are throngs of people, shoulder to shoulder, hip to hip. I look below and there is a man with no legs moving alongside us. He carries a money purse across his shoulders and uses wooden blocks to grip as he walks on stump and hand across the sidewalk.
 

We find a small noodle shop and go inside for a bite to eat. It is a refreshing reprieve from the chaos of outside and we look at a menu that offers pictures for some of the dishes. Jenelle isn't hungry, but I order a bowl of fish-ball soup. It comes in a simple form. Along with a handful of bisected balls of fish are a few slices of greens and a modest amount of noodles. The fishy broth is smooth and hits the spot.
 
Our night is winding down. On our way to our hotel we stop at Odeon Circle. This is considered the gateway to Chinatown. A large roundabout marks the intersection of Yaowarat Road and Charoen Krung. In the middle of the circle is a huge red Chinese gate. It is ornate as is everything in Thailand, with Chinese letters on one side and Thai on the other. It was built in 1999 as part of the celebrations for King Bhumibol's 72nd birthday. It is now an icon in Bangkok. Below the gate are two lion statues made of white jade.
 
On the other side of the roundabout is another shrine. It is a small but ornate building with red columns and two Chinese globes hanging from the top. In front are tables set out with offerings. I can see people over there, one lady is lighting a candle or incense. It amazes me because it is close to ten o'clock at night and the city seems as alive as ever. ♠ 

Chinese gate at Odeon Circle.

10 Pleasant Surprises in Bangkok

1. Boat Taxis. Bangkok is known as Venice of the East. Amidst the temples and markets are many canals, or khlongs as they are known in Thai. Some of these khlongs are served by boat taxis, which will take you from point A to point B far quicker than any other mode of transportation. The fare is only a few cents and passengers are almost entirely composed of locals.
 
The boat pulls up to the pier, flush against a row of old tires for cushion. We step inside the boat and find a seat near the back on a wooden bench. Before leaving, a man comes around and collects the fare of 14 baht, although sometimes he does this after the boat has launched. He walks around the edge of the boat, hanging onto the ropes as he collects the money. When we take off, the boat sputters and has a hard time moving and the smell of exhaust hovers around the back. The waters on the canal are choppy from the wake of passing vessels. A tarp is pulled up at the sides to shield the splash.
 
The ride gives you a peak at the living quarters of Bangkok homes, as many back walls face the canal. You can see ladies hanging laundry or men smoking a cigarette.
 

2. Monitor Lizards. I was surprised at how many of these we saw. We found them in parks and next to rivers or canals. They are huge lizards, usually over two feet long. They crawl onto the sidewalk, into the water, and over grass. They are similar in appearance to the kimodo dragon.
 

3. Street Food. In many ways, you can't call street food in Bangkok a “surprise.” But I include it here because it surpassed all expectations. Eating street food in Thailand's capital is like feasting at a never-ending buffet. Aside from the plethora of choices at a market, there are plenty of soloist vendors working from a cart, or a hole-in-the-wall that might be a beef noodle kitchen or the “front porch” of their apartment.
 
When someone asks my favorite food, or what it tasted like, I find it difficult to ascertain. That's because I rarely tried the same dish twice. The selection of food you will find is overwhelming, from curry and kebab, to purple rice in banana leaves and ice cream on a bun. It is something you can't appreciate until you've tried it in person. There's nothing like eating a piping-hot bowl of fish ball soup at an outdoor stall on a steamy-hot Bangkok night!
 

4. Canal View. Our first night in Bangkok, we stayed at a hotel near a canal. When I booked it, I chose the less-expensive room (being the cheap-skate I am) that didn't offer a view of the canal. But when we checked in, our room wasn't available yet, so they allowed us to spend a night in one of their deluxe rooms on the third floor next to the canal. Our view the next morning was exceptional! The rising sun gleamed across the water and over the bridge, and we could see the vendors setting up market across the canal and could smell fresh fish and garlic.
 

5. The Unknown Temple. Bangkok is a Buddhist's paradise. Temples abound everywhere. The name for “temple” in Thai is wat. Around the city there are many must-see places of worship—Wat Pho, Wat Saket, Wat Traimit, Wat Phra Kaeo just to name a few. But for me, it is most exciting to walk on the grounds of a temple that goes unnoticed to the general visitor. A temple that is solely used as a place of worship.
 
One such example came one evening on the Thornburi side of the Chao Phraya River, after we had visited Wat Arun. While wandering through backstreets, we came across a temple and adjoining buildings with immaculate white walls. I coaxed Jenelle into letting me explore a little deeper and found a group of teenaged monks loitering around a set of stairs, this being their monastery or living-quarters. We observed for a couple minutes, but then left, not wanting to intrude.
 

6. 7-Eleven. Who would have thought that a convenience store would be a “pleasant surprise?” But after experiencing Thailand's sweltering heat, we quickly learned that 7-Eleven had by far the best air conditioning. They say Thailand has three seasons: hot, hotter and hottest. Walking into the store is like walking into a refrigerator. Anytime we found a 7-Eleven we would walk inside to cool off, as well as to buy an interesting bite of food.
 

7. River Walk Pier. One evening, after wandering through the flower market, we came across a series of store-fronts on the bank of the Chao Phraya River. Known as the River Walk Pier, this was a very relaxing place to spend an hour. The cool breeze was very refreshing. We admired the reflecting lights in the river and the illuminated pagodas and temple of Wat Arun on the far bank. For forty minutes we watched the boats on the river, especially the cruise boats with a full load of tourists, live band and buffet. It sounded like a party every time one passed.
 

8. The Smell of Engine Grease. I knew our last hotel was off the beaten track. I chose it because of the seventh-story view of the Chao Phraya River, which proved to be worth it. But the narrow web of roads leading to the hotel revealed a different side of Bangkok than that printed on the brochures. It distinctly smelled like grease. They sell second-hand car parts here. Walking down the street you will find heaps of metal, including engines and mufflers that belong to anything from cars to mopeds. It's like having the junkyard as close and convenient as the grocery store. Sometimes a couple men would be tending the heap, sitting next to it on a chair, smoking cigarettes and chatting. Any foreigner who walked past would get a look of suspicion. I liked this because it meant we were off the well-worn path trod by tourists.
 

9. Massage in the Park. We were minding our own business in Lumphini Park, watching a monitor lizard crawl in and out of the water, and relishing the skyline of Bankok when a cute old man approached us and offered to give a massage. He claimed he was a trainer of Muay Thai, the Thai national sport that is similar to kickboxing. This guy was very nice and reminded us of a grandfather.
 
He had us sit on a block and would tweak the nerves at our armpits and elbows, and dig his elbow into our shoulder blades. As he tweaked the nerves in our arms, he would have us hold one out straight while he said, “Good . . . good . . . good . . . not good.” Then he would adjust. He seemed to know what he was doing. He also rubbed tiger balm on our temples and neck. In the end I gave him 200 baht. I don't know if he expected payment or not, but I was glad to give it.
 

10. The Ganesha Shrine. The wide sun was just about to set through the thick smog of Bangkok when we exited to the street from Central World Mall, a gigantic shopping complex seven stories tall. The last thing I expected to see was a large ornate shrine next to the street. I counted two large and five small altarpieces with offerings of flowers and fruit in front of them and incense floating in the air.
 
One of the idols struck my attention, as I noticed it wasn't the usual Buddha statue, but an elephant-like being. I learned that it was Ganesha, one of the most worshiped deities in the Hindu pantheon, who has an elephantine countenance with a pot-belly and four arms. As we stopped to watch, we noticed both men and women taking time to pray or give offerings to “The Lord of Success.” It is believed that worshiping Ganesha can help conquer emotions, destroy evil and remove obstacles.
 
Bonus. I can't sign off without writing of our most pleasant surprise. On our first day in Bangkok, while still in the airport, I lost my credit card! For the rest of trip we worried about someone getting a hold of it and going on a shopping spree. Without an international SIM card, we weren't able to call the credit card company. But as we monitored our account online, day after day, it was never compromised. Whoever found our card was an honest person! ♠

Wat Saket and The Golden Mount

In the evening, Wat Saket looks like a glowing castle hovering over Bangkok. From a distance the gleaming gold chedi appears as the conical tower of a fortress, conjuring a Fantasyland image.
 
In reality, it is a Buddhist Temple that sits atop what is known as The Golden Mount. A steep and winding staircase will take the visitor to a terrace at the top that offers some of the best views of Bangkok.
 
Wat Saket is a spiritual place where you will find people meditating and making offerings. Buddhist monks, in their orange robes, frequent the terrace. There is a small gift shop selling trinkets and ice cream.
 

To be sure, The Golden Mount is an artificial hill. In the early nineteenth century, King Rama III commissioned a large chedi to be built here using materials from the ruined walls of Ayutthaya, the former capital. The soil proved to be too soft and the chedi collapsed. For fifty years it sat undisturbed as Thai law states that a Buddhist structure cannot be destroyed. As shrubbery and vegetation began to grow around the structure, it began to look like a hill. King Rama V decided to fortify the hill and build a more sensible-sized chedi atop, and that is what exists today.
 
In addition to The Golden Mount and it's landmark chedi, there are also other structures on the temple grounds such as a chapel, ordination hall and library. ♠
 

Wat Pho

The Reclining Buddha.

Worshipers make offerings in the Temple of the Reclining Buddha.

Bangkok is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. One of things that sets it apart are the amount of temples that dot the landscape. Most pertain to Theravada Buddhism, although some originate from Chinese religions such as Taoism.
 
Located near the mighty Chao Praya River is a royal monastery and temple complex dating back to the era of King Rama I. It is home of The Reclining Buddha, and is said the be the birthplace of the Thai massage (which I, for one, am grateful). Within the complex are many religious buildings, pagodas, plants, fountains, and the omnipresent Buddha statues. It's official name is Wat Phra Chetuphon Vimolmangklararm Rajwaramahaviharn. Luckily for all of us, it is more commonly known as Wat Pho.
 
Being a sacred place of worship, the visitor must dress appropriately. Shorts and sleeveless shirts are inappropriate. The cost to enter is 100 Baht.
 

Pagodas and temples of Wat Pho.

Schoolkids on a field trip to Wat Pho.

Chinese Stone Doll.

Stone statues "bear the weight" at the base of a pagoda.

The Reclining Buddha is enshrined in a temple of the same name. The figure is 46 meters in length and 15 meters high, laying on it's side with head propped up on the hand, which is called the Sihasaiyas posture. The Buddha in this position is said to be a lion reclining. The image is made of brick and stucco, but lacquered and gilded to give a divine look. The feet, especially, are of interest. These gigantic appendages have designs in the toes that almost look like true prints. On the sole of the foot are “the mother-of-pearl inlaid patterns,” which are supposedly the same patterns found on the original Buddha shortly after he was born.
 
Many claim The Reclining Buddha to be the finest of large Buddhas around the world. Adherents, including both Thai and foreigner, believe that worshiping the image will bring them peace and happiness.
 

A colonnade of Buddha statues.

One of the curiosities at Wat Pho are the Chinese stone dolls that decorate porches, artificial hills and other spots within the temple complex. Originally they were used as ballast to stabilize ships returning from trade with China during the reign of King Rama III. During this era, trade was prosperous and merchant vessels returned to Siam heavy with commodities.  They used the stone statues as weight to stabilize the ship. They come in various forms, including warriors, nobleman, sages, lions, tigers, horses and pigs. Now they are used as decorations in the temple.
 

Joss sticks and lotus flowers are used for offerings.

Phra Buddha Chinnaraj, depicting the Buddha giving his first sermon.

In the South Assembly Hall is an image depicting Buddha giving his first sermon. It is known as Phra Buddha Chinnaraj, and was brought from Sukhothai, the former capital, by King Rama I. The image represents a key moment in the life of Buddha when he set the wheel of Dharma in motion. In his sermon he taught of the middle path to reach Nirvana, which means to avoid the extremes of pleasure and self-mortification.
 

An artist focuses on his work in a backroom of Wat Pho.

This small statue depicts the Thai Massage, which originated at Wat Pho.

Phra Ubosot, an ordination hall used for monastic rituals.

The greatest enjoyment, from a visitors point of view, is just to wander around the complex and take in the majesty of it all—the colors, ornate decoration, smell of incense, and literally hundreds of Buddhist statues. It is pleasant to watch those who are visiting, those who are worshiping, and perhaps some of the artists who are restoring artifacts. ♠