Climbing Mount Trumbull (Peak #33)

Mount Trumbull as seen from the trailhead to Mount Logan.

To the residents of Bundyville it was known as Nixon Mountain, named after James W. Nixon, an early pioneer in the area. But officially it was known as Mount Trumbull, named in 1869 by John Wesley Powell after Illinois Senator, Lyman Trumbull.

I've always had a fascination with Mount Trumbull. There is nothing special with the makeup of the mountain, but I was more fascinated with its remoteness. To arrive at its flanks one had to drive seventy miles on a dirt or graveled road.

Mount Trumbull from a distance of five miles to the west.

From the highway, one can barely see it unless he knows what he's looking for. It's a low-prominence dome that can blend with other volcanic hills in the area. Its proximity to the Grand Canyon adds to the mystique.

I was also well aware that its tall stands of ponderosa pine were used for lumber in the building of the St. George Temple of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints. This in itself was quite a feat.

Ponderosa Pine grows near Mount Trumbull. 

Work began in 1873. A road had to be built and sawmills were brought in. A loaded trip from the sawmill to St. George was backbreaking and tedious, which included a team of oxen traveling close to eighty miles for nearly a week. The lumber was eventually used for floors, walls and ornate stairways in the temple.

Over the next couple years, work from the sawmill was difficult. At one time it completely stopped when the snow fell so deep that the teams had no feed. The men got discouraged. Robert Gardner, one of the men in charge stated, “I would rather go to China than Trumbull.”

In 1875 the masonry work on the temple was completed. The work at the sawmill now had to be expedited. Gardner writes: “As soon as I could, I started back to Mount Trumbull with two cooks, men and provisions. Soon I had the mill running. I fitted it out with men and took six men with me into the woods; four with cross-cut saws and two with axes. I took my 'bill of lumber' for the Temple and my ax and measuring pole and selected and marked suitable trees for the choppers to cut. When they were cut down, I measured and marked them for the men with the cross-cut saws.”

Around this time James Nixon was called upon by the church to move with his family to Mount Trumbull. He was able to locate a spring and convey the water nearly a mile in a trough to the sawmill. Water was critical in running the steam-operated mill. Because of this they were more efficient in cutting board. This lumber was used not only for the temple, but many other buildings in early St. George. The water source still bears the name of Nixon Spring.

James William Nixon.

St. George Temple.

The trailhead to the top of Mount Trumbull is in the same area as the old sawmills. Nowadays there are kiosks that tell the history of the sawmills and native inhabitants, as well as a geological history of the mountain.

This area is higher in elevation than the Hurricane Valley to the west, Toroweap Valley to the east, and of course, the Grand Canyon to the south. Elevation is approximately 6500 feet. Mount Logan is directly to the south, and Mount Trumbull to the North. Between the two are green meadows and tall ponderosa pines in every direction.

Mount Trumbull is an ancient volcano whose first eruption happened approximately 3.6 million years ago. It is part of the Uinkaret Volcanic Field that stretches from the Grand Canyon all the way to the Utah state line. After this first eruption the lava cooled and turned into hard gray basalt. A second eruption at an unknown date spewed red cinder rock on top of the basalt. This rock is still visible on the trail.

There is a short trail in the vicinity of the old sawmills, but as far as I could tell, there's nothing left of the old structures. Trees are cleared out in a narrow line heading northward, which I assume leads in Nixon Spring. It was here that I met my first group of humans in two days, a trio of young Native adults who were hired by the forest service to fight invasive plants. One of them, I am sure, was Navajo.

A couple does near the old sawmill site.

The beginning of the trail with lots of little red cinder rock.

Part of the forest on top of Trumbull that was in a burn scar.

A flat Mount Logan as seen from the trail.

Looking southeast along the trail toward cinder cones, lava flows and Toroweap Valley.

The hike to the top of Trumbull was pleasant, but nothing extraordinary. The trail is steeper in the beginning, climbing the southern flank over small red cinder rocks. From time to time I would catch a glimpse of Mount Logan to the south, or other unnamed cinder cones to the southeast. Knowing what I was looking for, I spotted Toroweap Valley further afield.

Mount Trumbull is shaped like a low dome. Once I got on top of the dome the incline lessened. The density of the trees also lessened. I think there was a fire here several years ago, eliminating some of the stands.

The living and dead side by side.

Summit of Mount Trumbull, sans view.

Geological survey marker at the summit.

The trail wraps around the mountain until it comes to an end at the summit. Here there is a geological survey marker and a pile of rocks, but there is no view.

To obtain a vista I had to retreat down the trail 500 yards to a point that looked over the north face. Here the view was spectacular. I could see several cinder cones across the floor, all of which are part of the Uinkaret Volcanic Field.

In the distance, through the haze, I could see the Pine Valley Mountains by St. George. To my right was the upper Toroweap Valley.

Looking northwest from the north side of Trumbull.

Zoomed-in shot with Pine Valley Mountains in distance.

From the north side of Trumbull, looking northeast toward Toroweap Valley.

This was a pleasant little hike, although it started getting hot toward the end. I only passed one set of hikers, a man and women with their dog.

The scenery wasn't anything to brag about, but the history, isolation and geology of Mount Trumbull are all very fascinating. ♠

Mount Trumbull

Distance to peak: 2.6 miles

Net elevation gain:1,514 feet

Final elevation: 8,019 feet

Total roundtrip distance: 5.4 miles

View of Mount Trumbull from Toroweap Valley (east side).

Angel Moroni in the Manti Temple

Recently I attended an open-house for the Manti Temple. I was extremely excited because this was one of the original pioneer temples of the church and it was only the second time in its 135-year history that it had been open to the public for tours. 

I drove three hours to get there and when I did there was a long line that stretched to the north of this regal structure. As I waited for over an hour, I met several people from all over the state who had also traveled great distances. 

For those who have never seen it, the Manti Temple is arguably one of the most spectacular structures in all of Utah. Whether you're driving from the north or south, the temple stands as majestically as a medieval castle, perched atop a hill overlooking the small town of Manti. It took eleven years to build, constructed in a day with no modern tools. Instead, it was built by pioneer grit, bolstered by the strength of their faith. Built by members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, it was the second temple completed in Utah 

Imposing sight of the Manti Temple as seen from the south side of town.

On a personal note, I have a familial connection with the Sanpete Valley. My great-great-great- grandfather, Charles Shumway, was among the very first settlers who entered the valley in 1849. The virgin land had yet to be tilled. As one might expect, there were conflicts with local Utes that lead to deaths on both sides. Even though Charles moved on by the time construction began on the temple, he played a vital role in the beginnings of that community. 

But as I waited in the long line, my mind was drawn to another story of the Manti Temple. 

Several years ago I had a man whom I'd never met get a hold of me. His name was Bernie Johnson and we were distant cousins. He had a binder full of stories that he wanted to share, most of his ancestors. One of them that was of particular interest was that of his great-great-grandfather, Jons Peter Ahlstrom.

Jons Peter Ahlstrom.

Peter, as he was known, was born in 1835 in Malmö, Sweden to Ole Nilsson Ahlström and Ingeborg Månsdotter. Around the year 1854 the family joined the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints. By 1855 they began their journey to America to join the Saints in Zion. 

Their treacherous journey to the Salt Lake Valley took nearly four years. In that time they traveled by boat, train and foot. During their crossing of the Atlantic Ocean, they experienced “heavy seas and hurricane weather,” their boat catching fire and a collision with another vessel. 

In Burlington, Iowa they paused their trip because they were out of money. Father Ole Ahlstrom obtained a job felling trees, but was killed when one rolled on top of him, fracturing his skull. This left Peter, at the age of 21, in charge helping his widowed mother. 

While in Burlington, Peter married a young woman named Mary Larsen. Their first baby died after ten days. When their second baby was nine weeks old they had enough money to finish the trip west. Mary walked the entire way to Utah holding the baby in her arms except when crossing rivers. They reached the Salt Lake Valley in August of 1859. 

Brigham Young advised them to move to the Sanpete Valley. They arrived a couple weeks later at Fort Ephraim where that winter they lived in a cellar Peter had dug. He built a fireplace and chimney and covered the cellar with willows, straw and dirt. The following summer they were able to build themselves a one-room adobe house, of which they were very pleased. 

This is not intended to be a detailed biography of Peter Ahlstrom's life. Suffice it to say, they lived a very hard life on the frontier, although throughout the years they gradually increased their level of comfort. One thing that enabled this was when Peter was able to procure his own tools, allowing him to take up once again his trade of carpenter and cabinetmaker which he had learned before leaving Sweden. He eventually built the family a larger home which included an orchard and livestock. 

Black and white of Manti Temple.

This brings us to the point in Peter's life that is relevant to our topic. By 1877 construction was beginning on the Manti Temple. Peter was employed as a carpenter and thus he built a little shed where he could keep his tools and sleep. During the eleven years of construction, Peter would work at the temple for six days. Each day one of his daughters would walk from Ephraim to give him food for lunch and supper. Then on Saturday evening he would walk the seven miles home so he could be with his family on Sunday. This would cause him great pain and fatigue because several years earlier he had an accident which left him lame. On Monday morning he would return to Manti where he would repeat the process. 

I will now quote the story Bernie gave me: 

“Peter was assigned as 'overseer' of the temple complex. After the roof was on the temple, Peter slept each night in a room in the basement. The night following the private dedication, Peter remembered he had left the window of a room on an upper floor open. He lit his one-candle powered lantern and hobbled up the stairs to close the window. Returning to go back to his room, he paused at the hallway to the sealing rooms. He starred in awe and amazement. His little candle could cause a few shadows to flicker on the walls for a few feet. A beam of light shimmered from the narrow gap under the closed door of the sealing room at the end of the hall. It was far brighter than any artificial light Peter had ever seen. The only thing Peter could compare it to was a beam of sunlight—a single beam of brilliant sunlight penetrating the darkness. 

“With fear and trepidation Peter approached the door, unlocked it, and slowly opened it. Standing above the alter he saw a personage clothed in white robes. A brilliant light surrounded him and filled the whole room. Shutting the door behind him, he hastily hurried back down the hallway, down more stairs, and into the doorway of President Daniel H. Wells' office. It was well after midnight; President Wells was probably the only other mortal still in the temple. 

“Trembling and quite frightened, Peter stammered: 'President Wells, there's an angel . . ., there is an angel . . .' Peter was unable to say more. President Wells calmly replied: 'Peter, no one needs to fear to see an angel of the Lord. It is not given to everyone to see them. But this is Moroni's temple and he has been here all day.'” 

For anyone unfamiliar with the history of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, Moroni was a central figure in the Book of Mormon and lived approximately 400 A.D. Later, as a resurrected being, he appeared several times to Joseph Smith, not only instructing him, but also leading him to the golden plates, from which Joseph would translate the Book of Mormon. 

Depiction of the angel Moroni visiting the boy Joseph Smith. (photo courtesy of Church Newsroom)

There are several stories in the Manti area of the angel Moroni. Some have been passed down as family stories while others have been nearly lost. Some are nowadays probably considered as folklore or myths. But the truth is that there are many accounts and many are first-hand. There is no doubt in my mind that most of them are largely true. 

After waiting an hour in the long line I was finally able to go inside the temple. It had been closed for two years to make renovations on the structure. They made their best effort to retain the pioneer spirit. Most of murals on the walls and furniture dated back to the late 1800's or early 1900's. Although several stories high, there was still no elevator in the building. 

Back side of Manti Temple.

As I walked through the temple I marveled at the craftsmanship. Great detail was given to things such as doorknobs and woodwork. Leading from one level to another were spiral staircases that seemed to twist perpetually upward. My mind wondered if perhaps Peter Ahlstrom could have worked on the fine wooden railing of these stairs. 

Several of the walls were covered in murals, some of which were painted by pioneers such as C.C. Christensen. The most famous mural, painted by Minerva Teichert, depicts several scenes in the world, including at the front an Indian chief standing above a valley with a temple in the background. 

Mural painted by Minerva Teichert.  (photo courtesy of Church Newsroom)

Spiral staircase at Manti Temple. (photo courtesy of Church Newsroom)

The largest room was an assembly hall with several pews and pulpits. In this room were several windows, all made with the old-time wavy glass, letting in the outside light. 

On the higher levels were several sealing rooms with an alter in the middle. One of them in particular was very ornate with a chandelier hanging above. As I walked by and observed I couldn't help but to wonder which of these rooms was used by the angel Moroni. 

The open-house for the Manti Temple only lasted three weeks. After this it would be rededicated and then only available to members of the church who are in good standing. 

At this point I was determined to make it back after the dedication. I got the idea that I would love to come back in a year or so with my daughter, Jenna. ♥ 

 

Peter Ahlstrom is buried in the historic Manti Cemetery, just below the temple.

 

The Day the Devil Came to the Logan Temple

Marriner Wood Merrill was no stranger to the miracles of God. As a boy of nine years old growing up in New Brunswick, Canada he beheld a vision in which he saw into the future. Although he didn't understand everything at the time, in this vision he saw Joseph Smith, Brigham Young (both of whom he had never met), the Saint's journey to the west, and the practice of polygamy. 

In 1852 he was baptized a member of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints by missionaries in New Brunswick. 

Soon after that he joined the Saints on their westward trek to Utah Territory. During this journey while on the plains he witnessed another miracle. While attempting to swim across the Platte River to retrieve strayed cattle he lost his strength and began to be pulled under by the heavy current. He was almost to the point of drowning when suddenly a sandbar formed beneath his feet. He stood there safely until someone was able to come and rescue him. Suddenly, the sandbar disappeared. Marriner felt confident that the hand of God had saved his life. 

Statues of the pioneers on their journey to the West.

Three years passed and he was now establishing himself in the Salt Lake Valley. On a cold day in January 1856, Marriner was loading five large logs that would be used to make houses onto a sled. The ground was very slippery. He had one log loaded and as he turned to load the second, the first shot out and struck him hard, pinning him atop the other logs. The log that pinned him down was ten inches in diameter and twenty-two feet long. He could scarcely breathe, let alone move. 

He was sure that he would die a cold death there on the mountain with no one else around. An earnest prayer poured from his heart as he plead with the Lord to help him in this dire situation. He continued the attempt to extricate himself, but to no avail. Within a short period of time he began to fade and lose consciousness. 

When he finally came to, he was about a mile down the trail and sitting atop an orderly stack of five logs. His ax was lodged in the top log and his whip lay at his side. The oxen pulled the load as if nothing strange had happened. Marriner attempted to move, but could not budge due to the soreness of his body.

Later in his autobiography he said: “Who it was that extricated me from under the log, loaded my sled, hitched my oxen to it, and placed me on it, I cannot say.” 

Many years passed and Marriner Wood Merrill dedicated his life to the building up of the church. He moved to northern Utah where he served as bishop in Richmond for eighteen years. He was successful in farming, raising stock and the milling industry. With this he supported his eight wives and forty-five children. 

In 1884 he became the first president of the Logan Temple, which was just a three-hour buggy ride from Richmond. In 1889 he was ordained an Apostle. 

Hattie Merrill Morrison Farmstead in Richmond, Utah.  Hattie is the daughter of Marriner,.

Marriner Wood Merrill.

During the days of polygamy raids, Marriner lived in his bedroom on the second floor of the west tower of the Logan Temple. There were periods when he didn't leave the building for several weeks. 

During this time he relied on his son, Marriner Wood Merrill Jr., to take care of things at home. You can imagine his despair when his son passed away from illness at the young age of forty-two. Marriner felt that God had betrayed him. He was busy doing the Lord's work and his son was taken when he needed him most. 

His attitude changed, however, when one evening his son appeared to him in his bedroom in the temple. “Pa,” he said, “I am where the Lord wants me to be. I have been called home to preach the gospel to the people you are doing the temple work for. This work is more important than anything I could be doing on earth, and it is not pleasing to the Lord for you to grieve as you are doing over my death.” 

Needless to say, Marriner never grieved again over his son's death, nor did he complain about hardships in life. His testimony of the work in the temple grew tremendously. 

Logan Temple.

Perhaps this experience prepared him for the next. During the final decade of his life President Merrill had an encounter in the Logan Temple that is unlike any encounter I've ever read about. The following is an excerpt from a work written on the first hundred years of the Logan Temple: 

“Logan Temple President Marriner W. Merrill was sitting in his office one morning in the early 1890's when he heard a commotion outside. Stepping to the window, he saw a great congregation of people coming up the temple hill, some on foot and others on horseback and in carriages. President Merrill's first thought was, 'What will we do with so many people? If we fill every room in the temple, it will not begin to hold them all.' 

“The riders tied their horses up on the hitching posts or turned them loose on the temple corrals, and walked complacently about the front grounds, without seeming to have much purpose in mind. They were a rather odd looking group, and were dressed quite shabbily. 

Sketch of Logan Temple.

“They made no effort to enter the temple, so President Merrill went out to greet them and see what he could do for the group. He said to the leader: 'Who are you, and who are these people who have taken possession of the temple grounds unannounced?' 

“He answered: 'I am Satan, and these are my people.' Brother Merrill asked: 'What do you want and why have you come here?' Satan replied: 'I don't like what is being done in the Logan Temple and have come to stop it.' That was a bit of shock to President Merrill, and he answered: 'No, we will not stop it. This is the work of the Lord and must go on. You know that you or anyone else cannot stop the work of the Lord.' 

“'If you refuse to stop it, I will tell you what I propose to do,' the adversary said. 'I will scatter this congregation of people throughout these valleys, and we will keep people from coming to the temple. We will whisper in their ears and discourage them from attending the temple. We will stop your temple work.' 

“President Merrill then used the power of the priesthood and commanded Satan and his followers to depart from holy ground. He said that within four or five minutes there was not a person, horse or buggy in sight. They just disappeared into thin air and were gone.” 

For the next ten to twelve years the work in the Logan Temple was very slow. Satan worked hard to thwart efforts of those going to the temple. There are several accounts of people intending to go, but at the last minute something happening so they couldn't. Still they pushed forward and often finished their journey to the House of the Lord. 

Nolan Olsen, writing on the first 100 years of the Logan Temple, put it this way: “The evil one's power and influence are real. He knows the value of temple work and would do anything in his power to keep people away. But he failed to recognize the faithfulness and devotion of the Saints in this area, for they were not easily discouraged.” ♠ 

 

Grave of Marriner Wood Merrill in Richmond City Cemetery.

 



Sources 

“Marriner Wood Merrill (biography),” Family Search, online. 

Merrill, Melvin Clarence. Utah Pioneer and Apostle Marriner Wood Merrill and His Family. Marriner Wood Heritage, 1980. 

Olsen, Nolan. Logan Temple: The First 100 Years. 1978. 

“Preaching to the Dead.” Family Search, online. (On “Memories” of Marriner Wood Merrill.)

10 Pleasant Surprises in Phoenix

I recently visited the area of Phoenix, Arizona for the first time since becoming an adult. Recently my daughter completed a mission for our church near the area of Scottsdale. She would be our guide. I didn't plan much (unlike usual), which led to many unexpected experiences. Here's a list of ten pleasant surprises we encountered. 

Mural in Downtown Phoenix.

1. Downtown Phoenix. We parked near Roosevelt and Second Street with the intention of perusing the Arts District. The place was busier than normal with a long line of people waiting to enter some sort of cannabis convention. That wasn't our thing so we continued walking and ended up in the center of town near Chase Field (home to the Arizona Diamondbacks) and below all the skyscrapers. We found an alleyway with walls covered in street art. It was a cool place to chill and take photos. 

Box of BoSa Donuts.

2. BoSa Donuts. Kaitlyn was excited to take us to this donut shop. BoSa Donuts is based in Arizona and has an amazing selection of this tasty confectionery. We stopped by a shop in Mesa and it was a relief to be away from the hustle and bustle of the more popular areas. If I lived near a BoSa, I would definitively come often as I have a weakness for donuts. 

Eating at The Beach House.

3. Eating with the Riggses. One of the great pleasures of this trip was to meet with people that Kaitlyn worked with on her mission. One such duo was Brother and Sister Riggs, an elderly missionary couple who live in the area. They met us at The Beach House on Camelback Road, a quaint joint that serves tacos and slushies. The Riggses had no problem at all talking with us. They carried on as if we had been lifelong friends. Indeed we shared a common culture and heritage which helped give us an immediate connection. They were kind, gentle, down to earth and very personable. In the end they insisted on paying for our meals and gave us all hugs as we parted. 

Top of Camelback Mountain.

4. Camelback Mountain. Since the first time Kaitlyn wrote home after climbing Camelback Mountain, I knew it was a hike on which she wanted to take me. We almost didn't get to go because parking was full and law enforcement officers were turning cars away. This hike is probably the most popular in the Phoenix area. When we finally got our turn I was impressed with the scenic vistas, saguaro cacti and relentless uphill slope of the hike. Definitely not for the weak. 

Arizona sunset.

5. Sunsets. Need I say more? We hardly saw a single cloud, but watching the sun go down behind Arizona palm trees is enough to make me nostalgic. 

Easter Pageant at the Mesa, Arizona Temple.

6. Mesa Arizona Easter Pageant. On the north lawn of the Mesa Temple of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints is held the largest annual outdoor Easter Pageant in the world. I barely knew this existed until a couple weeks before we came, and we just happened to be there for Easter weekend. I will admit that it was bigger and more impressive than I expected. Thousands were gathered on chairs and blankets to watch the pageant. The musical, which lasted slightly over an hour, included 450 actors. The production is titled Jesus the Christ, and depicts the life of the Savior from before his birth until the time of his resurrection. It was a very pleasant evening under the warm Arizona air. 

Town Lake in Tempe, Arizona.

7. Chilling at Tempe Town Lake. This wasn't planned at all. In fact, we hoped to walk through the botanical gardens, but when we learned it was $39 per person just to enter, we said no way! So we drove down the road and ended up in Tempe. The town lake is the result of damming up the Salt River and creating a lake that looks like an even bigger river. There is a park along the shore called Tempe Beach Park. We enjoyed sitting at the edge of the water and watching the boats on the lake and people walking through the park. 

Headstone of Waylon Jennings.

8. Waylon Jennings' Grave. Our purpose of going to the Mesa City Cemetery was to visit the grave of my fourth great grandfather, Joseph Ellis Johnson. He is buried in the older section. But to my great surprise I learned that country music legend, Waylon Jennings, was buried a few sections away. I used this as a teaching experience for the kids. We got their picture with the headstone and then listened to the Dukes of Hazzard theme song on the way out. 

Meeting the Juarez family.

9. The Juarez Family. Our final day in Phoenix was a Sunday and we chose to attend a Spanish-speaking congregation for Sabbath worship. There we met several people who knew my daughter and spoke fondly of her. But it was Elvira Juarez and her two daughters who spent the most time with us. We sat in the pew just behind them and talked for several minutes before the meeting started. It delighted my soul to meet people that had such a loving connection with my daughter.
 

View of Table Mesa, north of Phoenix.

10. Table Mesa Road. This was a location just north of Phoenix. We had to find a spot to change out of our Sunday clothes and I chose here, a location off the beaten path that would give us authentic scenery and privacy at the same time. We turned off the freeway onto this road and I will admit that I was a little hesitant. It looked eerily similar to the border with Mexico and I didn't want to get shot. Saguaro cactus dotted the arid hillside. Even if it was only brief, I was excited to be here. 

Arizona Canal looking back toward Camelback Mountain. (photo by Nicholas Gerbis)

Bonus: Canals. I was very surprised to see so many wide canals carrying water across the valley. How can such a hot and dry place have so much water? But the bigger intrigue came when I learned that many of these canals had ancient origins. When the first European settlers arrived in the Salt River Valley they found an extensive network of abandoned canals built over a thousand years ago by the Hohokam people. Much of this civilization remains a mystery, but archeologists now agree that it was the largest irrigation system in North America at the time. The original settlers built and expanded on this early canal system. In this manner, the Phoenix area has been an oasis for over a thousand years. ♠

Salt Lake City Cemetery

Oh ye mountains high, where the clear blue sky 

Arches over the vales of the free. 

Where the pure breezes blow and the clear streamlets flow, 

How I've longed to your bosom to flee! 

O Zion! Dear Zion! land of the free! 

Now my own mountain home, unto three I have come; 

All my fond hopes are centered in thee.

—Oh Ye Mountains High, by Charles W. Penrose. Included in LDS Hymnal.
 

During July of 1847 the first Mormon wagon trains began rolling down Emigration Canyon of the Wasatch Mountains into the Salt Lake Valley. They had been driven from their homes by mobs in Illinois and Missouri and sought a refuge where they could worship in peace. 

These were hardy and faithful pioneers of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, a religion formed just 15 years earlier by Joseph Smith, a man they revered as Prophet. The young man, Joseph, visited with angels and translated an ancient record that became known as the Book of Mormon. Thousands of converts from the eastern United States and Europe joined the young religion. 

Old church on the south side of the Salt Lake City Cemetery.

Flanked by snow-capped mountains on their eastern edge, they began to build a city. They laid out streets, built small adobe or log homes, diverted water and planted crops. They also began construction of a magnificent temple. This would be a place where the Saints could gather and gain strength. This would be their Zion. 

But as sure as the sun comes up, it didn't take long before the first deaths occurred in the valley. On August 11, three-year old Milton Therlkill drowned in a pond that had been dammed along City Creek. In September, Caroline Grant died of cholera 75 miles east of Salt Lake on her trek west. Her body was brought to the valley for burial. Two weeks later Nancy O'Neil Rich, mother of Charles Rich, died of pneumonia. She is memorialized as the first white woman to die in the valley. They were buried in a field outside the new fort. 

A year later on September 27, 1848, the young daughter of George and Melisssa Wallace passed away. Instead of burying her down by the fort, her father chose to inter her body in a place more secluded on the east bench. The lot was owned by a relative, Daniel Wallace. A month later, an infant son of the Wallace's died and was buried next to his sister. Other people followed suit and soon there were several burials at this site in the foothills. 

In 1849 a committee was selected and it was decided that this site in the foothills would become the permanent city cemetery. George Wallace was appointed sexton. All burials from that time forward were to be interred in the new cemetery. With exception of a few, many of the previous burials were exhumed and relocated to the new burial ground. 

Graves of Francis Armstrong and his family.

Nowadays the Salt Lake City Cemetery is mammoth in size and is one of the largest city-owned cemeteries in the United States. It covers 150 acres and has 9 ½ miles of roads. 

To an outsider, the Salt Lake Cemetery may seem average. But to anyone who has an inkling of the history of the Mormon Church, this cemetery is dense with prominent figures. From Apostles to Prophets, to poets and architects, this cemetery is a treasure trove. 

Until now, I had only been to the cemetery once. That was twenty years ago and I longed to return. On a recent trip to the city, my wife was kind enough to let me visit again. 

The cemetery is located in “The Avenues” of Salt Lake. It's a beautiful area with many old homes and a few steep roads. My father-in-law grew up here. It is a place where people of all faiths, or no faith, can take walks and enjoy the peace. 

I parked on the side of the road and began walking randomly toward the north. The first thing that struck me was how many burials were from the 1800's. A lot! I knew that all these people were pioneers, contributing to the cause in their own special way. 

It didn't take long to find the first familiar name: Truman O. Angell. Anyone who knows just a smidgen of Church History knows that Truman O. Angell was the architect of the Salt Lake Temple, which is probably the most historical structure in Utah. Born in Rhode Island, Angell joined the church at age 23. He quickly immersed himself in the work of the church by serving a mission and helping the construction of some early church buildings. He came west with the Saints, having buried three children along the way. He arrived in the Salt Lake Valley in 1847 and Brigham Young appointed him as the church architect. It is interesting that during the construction of the temple, Young sent him to Europe to study the designs of buildings over there. Consequently, the Salt Lake Temple looks more like a European cathedral than any other temple. Additionally, Angell designed several other buildings and temples for the church. 

Truman O. Angell.

To understand Mormon culture is to understand the reverence that is paid to their leaders. The highest of those leaders is the President of the Church, also known as Prophet, Seer and Revelator. There have only been 17 of them since the founding of the church in 1830. The majority are buried in the Salt Lake City Cemetery. 

As I walked through the stone grave markers I came across several Prophets. The first was Wilford Woodruff, the fourth President of the church, serving until his death in 1898. He was noted for issuing “The Manifesto,” the document which ended plural marriage in the church. 

Grave of Wilford Woodruff, fourth President of the church.

I also passed by the graves of several members of the Smith family, including Joseph F. Smith, his son Joseph Fielding Smith, and a distant cousin, George Albert Smith. All of these are related, but not directly descended from church founder Joseph Smith. 

The tomb of George Albert reads: “He understood and disseminated the teachings of Christ and was uncommonly successful in putting them into practice. He was kindly, patient, wise, tolerant, and understanding. He went about doing good.” 

Graves of Joseph Fielding Smith and family.

George Albert Smith.

With great joy I came across the grave of Thomas S. Monson, sixteenth president of the church. Of all the familiar burials I encountered this day, his was the only one I had seen or met in person. He didn't pass away until 2018. As a friend of my wife's grandmother, he came to her husband's funeral and it was there that I shook his hand. He was a very personable man. 

Graves of Thomas Spencer Monson and wife, Frances.

Although the Prophet Brigham Young was buried separately in a location downtown, one of his plural wives, Harriett Amelia Folsom Young, is buried in the Salt Lake City Cemetery. She died 33 years after her husband and bears a large tombstone over her grave. Tributes describe her as tall, queenly, intelligent, of a fair complexion, and an accomplished pianist and vocalist. 

Another wife of a a famous pioneer was Mary Garn, the wife of Lot Smith (no relation to Joseph). I don't know much about Mary, but Lot was a leader of the Militia and fought in battles against the Indians. He was killed by a Navajo near Tuba City, Arizona in 1892. 

Harriett Amelia Folsom Young, plural wife of Brigham Young.

Buried relatively close to each other are Apostles Orson Pratt and Erastus Snow. It is interesting how the path of these two men intertwined throughout the history of the church. Orson Pratt was the first to join the church. He was ordained an elder and served a mission where he met and taught Erastus Snow. Pratt became an apostle first, being one of the original twelve ordained under the hands of Joseph Smith. He was also a writer, historian, philosopher, and mathematician. In 1847 he used his math skills to design an “odometer” that would measure the distance traveled on the trek west, via the rotation of the wagon wheel. He and Erastus Snow were the first Mormons to enter the Salt Lake Valley, arriving three days ahead of the vanguard group. In 1860 they served a mission together in the Eastern States.

Orson Pratt, one of the original twelve apostles ordained by Joseph Smith.

Erastus Snow.

Another Apostle buried in the Salt Lake Cemetery is George Q. Cannon. The Q stands for “Quayle” and even today in Utah you will occasionally find the same middle name, usually given in honor of George Q. He was one of the first missionaries to the Hawaiian Islands and became an apostle after the murder of Parley P. Pratt. 

In addition to church leaders, there were many headstones honoring those of lay members. One such person that stood out was Moses Deming, who died in 1871. It was obvious that a newer headstone had replaced the older one. His obituary in the Deseret News stated: “He embraced the gospel in Michigan, and has been in Utah about eighteen years. He died in full faith in the gospel and leaves a large family and a numerous circle of friends to deplore his death.” 

George Q. Cannon.

Moses Deming, an ordinary pioneer buried in the Salt Lake City Cemetery.

But of all the graves I sought the most to find in the Salt Lake City Cemetery, it was that of my great-great-great-great-grandfather, John Workman. The only other time I came to this cemetery—20 or so years ago—I came across his grave, feeling lucky to find it out of the thousands. Back then it had the original headstone, falling apart and nearly illegible. Since then they have replaced it. 

John Workman was the first in his family to join the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints. They were living in Overton County Tennessee when two Mormon Elders sought to lodge in their home. Never turning away a traveler in need of food and rest, they welcomed the Elders. John found the message taught by the Elders had struck a familiar chord. 

They were baptized and eventually moved to Nauvoo to join the Saints. There they were persecuted strongly by the mob and eventually his wife, Lydia, succumbed to the persecution and died. She was buried in the Nauvoo Cemetery. 

After being driven from Nauvoo by the mob, John Workman and his family migrated west to the Salt Lake Valley where he died just three years later.  His new headstone lists all 20 of his children! 

Graves of John Workman, Mary Chidester (great-granddaughter), Abram (grandson) and Julia (granddaughter-in-law) Workman.

Salt Lake Temple icon is a popular engraving on LDS headstones.

I continued to wander the cemetery. There was too much to take in and too little time. It was interesting to note that many of the modern headstones had engravings of the Salt Lake Temple, whose designer, Truman O. Angell, was buried just a short distance away. 

Not too far beyond the graves of Mormon pioneers there is a Jewish section. Technically, I believe, it is a different cemetery, named the B'nai Israel Cemetery. There were no fences and no signs to distinguish it from the grander Salt Lake City Cemetery. Here the headstones were marked with different symbolism, usually the Star of David or menorah. Gravestones tended to be placed closer together, similar to those I had seen in pictures of Jewish cemeteries in Eastern Europe. Writing on these markers came in English, Hebrew, and sometimes Arabic. 

It seems like the Jews make their mark just about everywhere, and Utah was no exception. The first Jewish families came to Salt Lake during the 1850's. They built buildings and contributed to the community. In 1869, Brigham Young offered them land for the purpose of constructing a cemetery. From 1917 to 1921, Simon Bamberger, a Jew, was Governor of Utah. He is buried in the B'nai Israel Cemetery. 

The B'Nai Israel Cemetery is located next to the Salt Lake City Cemetery.

Headstone with various languages, including Arabic and Hebrew.

Like I stated earlier, the Salt Lake City Cemetery is huge. I could come back every day for a year and find something new each time. There are other Jewish sections, as well as a Catholic cemetery. An hour and a half was certainly not enough time to see all I wanted. 

Toward the end of my wanderings, I came across the large headstone of another familiar name: Charles W. Penrose. If you recall, at the beginning of this writing I included the first verse of his beloved hymn, Oh Ye Mountains High. Penrose was born in London and joined the church in 1850 at the age of eighteen. He was immediately called to serve a mission in England and it was there that he penned this hymn—before he even set foot in the Salt Lake Valley. He later emigrated to Utah and in 1904 was ordained an Apostle. 

As I left the cemetery, I envisioned it laid out like a giant quilt. It was a patchwork, with everyone faithful and diligent in their own little section, but when sewn together, helping to create something bigger than themselves. I was only able to identify a few of the bigger “patches.” I knew that this cemetery was full of smaller, anonymous patches who came to Zion and did their part, but would never be known but to a few of their own descendants. ♠

 

Grave of Charles W. Penrose.