The Long Road to Machu Picchu

Following our visit to Machu Picchu we had a couple hours in the nearby village of Aguas Calientes before catching our return train. While waiting, a distinct thought came into my mind: We are a long way from anywhere!

The sun had already set and in the twilight a crescent moon sat above the steep dark mountains. Here we sat between the Andes mountains and Amazon jungle. I felt an air of mystique that certainly came from the history and culture of the area, but also from the isolation. I reflected on our long journey to arrive at this revered location.

On a plane to Lima, Peru.  We visited during the Covid pandemic. 

Seven Days Earlier:

After a couple days in Lima we boarded a plane for Cusco. If we were to drive, the journey would take at least twenty hours to cover 684 miles! And I'm sure most of that would be on narrow winding roads and nothing like the straight-arrowed freeways we're used to in the United States.

The flight only lasted an hour and a half, but it was fascinating to peer out the window. When clouds didn't obstruct our view we saw tall snow-capped mountains. As we got closer to Cusco it felt as if the land was getting higher (and I'm sure we were getting lower). We saw little villages perched on terraced mountains and a rugged landscape. We even saw the steeply terraced Inca ruins of Tipón.

Inside the Jorge Chavez International Airport in Lima, waiting for a flight to Cusco.

A hazy view out the airplane window before our decent into Cusco.

When we landed in Cusco it felt like we were in a different world. The city itself is over 11,000 feet high in elevation. There was an old world feel with the narrow cobblestoned streets, many of them on steep inclines. The people were much more native than what I saw in Lima, being darker in color with well-defined noses and foreheads, and wearing their traditional Quechua clothing.

After a few days in Cusco it was time to keep moving. We left our hotel at 9:20 am and walked for twenty minutes with packs on our shoulders to Pavitos Street where right away we were invited to join a minivan, which we shared with six other passengers. I wasn't even sure if our van was the real deal, or just a citizen trying to earn money. We read that this was the place to go to find rides to Ollantaytambo. Either way, we took it.

The drive took a couple hours. It was amazing to me that our journey to one of the wonders of the world was over such rough infrastructure. The roads were narrow and winding. Once we had to take a detour onto a dirt road. At times we shared the road with cattle. It was fascinating to catch a glimpse of the people and buildings of these small villages.

Inside the private vehicle of a stranger on the way to Ollantaytambo.

Looking out the window of our vehicle at an Inca lady in a small Peruvian village. 

One common misconception is that Machu Picchu is super high in elevation. It's not. As we drove from Cusco, we gradually dropped in elevation. As we neared Ollantaytambo we entered the Sacred Valley, a 62-mile corridor stretching from Pisac to Machu Picchu along the the Urubamba River. Here the scenery became more breathtaking. Mountains became steeper and Inca ruins more prevalent.

We arrived in Ollantaytambo where we would spend the next three nights and use as our base to Machu Picchu. Ollantaytambo is probably the most impressive village I've ever seen. It lies nestled between steep mountain slopes with some of the best Inca ruins built onto their sides. Streets are cobblestoned and narrow, and people there dress in traditional clothing. From some places in the village you can see 19,000 foot snow-capped peaks of the Andes Mountains.

The fascinating village of Ollantaytambo.

Beyond Ollantaytambo the road system peters out. The one paved “highway” goes a few miles past the village, then takes a sharp turn to the right and into the mountains. There are dirt roads from village to village, but they too disappear. The only option left, unless you want to take a very circuitous route, is to take the train.

I believe there are more options for locals, but for the tourists there are a limited amount of trains you can take and the price to board them is higher. It is best to book well in advance.

On the second of our two full days, we walked to the station and boarded the train. This ride would take us through the Sacred Valley. Some trains have a glass ceiling so you can look up at the mountains, but ours didn't. Instead we had a view through the window, which was beautiful, but oftentimes we were too close to the mountain slope to see much.

The entire time we paralleled the clear and cold Urubamba River. We passed several lesser-known Inca ruins. The Inca Trail was also within our view at times. For the ambitious who want to walk to Machu Picchu, that's the way to go. The majestic snow-capped Mount Veronica at 19,334 feet also peeked out from time to time.  

As I rode the train and glanced out the window I had the feeling that we were getting deeper and deeper into the wilderness. My life back home was getting further away.

Boarding the train in Ollantaytambo.

The train to Machu Picchu travels through the Sacred Valley along the Urubamba River.

Terraced slopes built by the Inca, viewed from the train.

After an hour and a half we arrived near the foot of Machu Picchu in a town called Aguas Calientes. Even more so than Ollantaytambo, Aguas Calientes was surrounded by steep mountains. But unlike the others, the slopes here were covered in jungle.

The village sits on both sides of the Aguas Calientes River, which empties into the Urubamba. The town basically exists as a launching point to drive up to Machu Picchu. Once we left the train it was a short walk to where we would catch the bus. Many were there to sell us tours.

This is where the train dropped us off in Aguas Calientes.

Here we caught the bus to Machu Picchu.

The bus ride from Aguas Calientes to the parking lot at Machu Picchu was short, but impressive. It followed the river a couple miles then started the uphill push where it navigated 13 hairpin curves. The higher we got, the more impressive the view. We were surrounded by steep mountains on three sides, all cloaked in dense vegetation. It made me wonder how many other ruins were out there that were lost forever beneath the growth.

Our visit inside Machu Picchu did not disappoint. Our tour guide was excellent. It was amazing to see the ingenuity of this citadel on a mountain. I was surprised to see lamas on top, as well as megalithic carved rocks like those in Ollantaytambo and Sacsayhuamán. The only downside⸺and this was because we were there during Covid⸺was that we couldn't linger as long as we wanted. When purchasing the tickets we had to choose which “lane” we wanted to see, a number between one and four. We had to go straight through without backtracking. I lost track of time, but we probably spent 2-3 hours on top. 

Impressive view of the surrounding hills as we climb the road to Machu Picchu.

A smaller river runs down the center of Aguas Calientes.

Not knowing when we would be done, we gave ourselves a small cushion in Aguas Calientes before our scheduled return to Ollantaytambo. That gave us time to get a bite to eat and to wander through the market. It was dark by the time we boarded the train.

For our ride back we saw none of the Sacred Valley as we had before. No snow-capped mountains, no whitewashed river, no Inca ruins. Perhaps this added to the mystique. As I dozed in and out of sleep I dreamed that I was in a magical place far, far away . . . ♠

Sun Gate of Inti Punku Cachiccata

We crossed the river on the old Inca Bridge and walked along a trail at the foot of a steep mountain slope. The trail, they say, is ancient and was used by the Inca to haul their quarried stone.

Just a few minutes into the hike we came across an old wall and structures. The rooms were made of gray rock and bushes grew within. The tops of the walls had collapsed. 

What a beautiful sight! To our right tumbled the Urubamba River, whose waters would eventually reach the Amazon. Humongous mountains towered all around. On the other side of the valley was the elusive Mount Veronica, whose snow-capped peak was now veiled behind a band of constant clouds. At times there were pockets when we could see a flank, or perhaps a quick glimpse of the summit. But in an instant it was veiled again. Mount Veronica towered at 19,334 feet. 

Urubamba River.

Village of Ollantaytambo.

In the beginning, the trail gained elevation slowly. Across the valley to our right we could see the town of Ollantaytambo and the massive ruins of the same name on the hillside. 

Our destination was the Sun Gate of Inti Punku Cachiccata, an Inca ruin near the crest of the mountain. We would be climbing over 4,000 feet to get there, and I prayed dearly that my body would allow me to do it. 

One of many old ruins on the trail to Inti Punku.

Trail to Inti Punku.

Village of Cachiquata in the Sacred Valley of Peru.

After the first resting point, which included a stone hut with shade, the trail took a sharp turn and began to climb even steeper. Here we could get see a shack where someone lived with a dog outside barking. It is mind-boggling to me that someone would live this far up. There were no roads anywhere near here! 

The foliage on these steep hillsides was not lush. From a distance they appeared bare, but walking through it was obvious that there was plenty of growth. Although we were above 10,000 feet, it reminded me much of what could be found in a desert: cactus, yucca-like plants the height of a human, and another plant similar to a manzanita tree. 

Ten minutes later we could hear the sound of flowing water. It was a rivulet shooting down the slope. It ran in a stone canal . . . one that had probably been in use for 800 years or longer. The Inca were masters of controlling water. 

Shaded rest-house along the trail.

The trail took a sharp turn and began to climb even steeper.

Shack located high on the mountain slope.

Here we could hear the sound of flowing water.

The Inca were masters at channeling water.

As we continued, the trail became steeper. We passed a team of Peruvian natives who were trotting down the hill with a group of pack horses. My guess is that they hauled them up for hikers. 

We passed the old quarry site where stones were hewn from the mountain and hauled down to the valley. The whole idea of the quarry being so far away blows my mind. Some of the rocks at Ollantaytambo are so big that they're considered megalithic. And how did they haul them down without pack animals like horses or oxen? 

We also saw a few thimble-shaped stone structures called chullpas. These were burial tombs used by a pre-Inca people. They are scattered around several places in Peru. Originally the corpses were buried in the fetal position along with some of their belongings, but nowadays the chullpas are empty. 

Chullpas.

Looking upward toward to old Inca quarry site.

Stone remains at the quarry site.

Around this point the slope of the trail really gave us a beating. I am no longer young, and health issues have taken a toll. We continued forward, albeit slowly. 

Much to our surprise we found cattle at this high elevation near 11,000 feet. The cows nibbled on grass and basked in the sun as if it were nothing. 

Beyond the cattle we came across another group of Inca houses. With the exception of the roof they were very well preserved. Each had a door and inside the room were several niches along the wall. 

We took a break here⸺on the front lawn of these old homes. And what a view! Mount Veronica rose even more majestically from this altitude, now clearing up from cloud cover. We sat on the fluffy green grass that felt as soft as any bed. We sipped Gatorade and ate a candy bar. 

From here we now had a good, albeit distant view of the sun gate. The stone edifice appeared as a tiny silhouette on the top of the mountain, with a piercing hole on its face.⸺We were getting closer! 

Much of the trail had stone steps built into it, probably ancient in origin.

High-elevation cow.

Old structure along the trail, perhaps homes for the quarry workers.

Jenna takes a break on the "front lawn."

Mount Veronica, elevation 19,334 feet.

Mount Veronica on right and sun gate on the left.

We spent the next half hour completing the final ascent. When we arrived, it was probably the grandest view I've ever seen. Not only did we have a front-row seat to view Mount Veronica, but we could also see the other side of the mountain, further into the Sacred Valley. Our panoramic view gave sight to several other snow-capped peaks, each with their own rugged destination. 

Inti Punku, literally translated from Quechua, means “sun door.” The stone building, which I believe is unfinished, has a set of stairs leading to an opening in a wall. Crossing the threshold through the door brings the visitor into an open-air room, with walls only a few feet high. Beyond this ancient temple stands Mount Veronica, which, from the right angle, can be framed through the door. 

The Sun Gate possibly worked as an astronomical observatory. It lines up perfectly with the constellation Pleiades and is closely associated with Winter Solstice and the Andean New Year. 

Sun Gate of Inti Punku Cachiccata.

Looking south from the sun gate.

It is interesting that Inti Punku served as an inter-dimensional bridge between the world of the living and dead. I have heard other Native American myths of there being a portal to the afterlife and I would love to find the origin of these beliefs. 

My altimeter measured our elevation at 12,820 feet. We were not, however, the tallest peak on our hillside. To our south stood a very rocky peak and I noticed a well-used trail leading to it up the backside. It would be at least a couple miles one-way if we were to go there, but we had neither the time nor energy for that. 

We spent an hour at the sun gate, taking pictures from every angle imaginable. We knew we had to relish every second. 

The Sun Gate of Inti Punku Cachiccata should not be confused with the sun gate at Machu Picchu.

Looking east into the Sacred Valley and Ollantaytambo. Other high peaks in the distance.

Sun Gate as seen from inside.

For our journey down, we chose to go a different route. Instead of the long drawn-out route to the Inca Bridge, we chose one that descended immediately and came out at the village of Cachiqata. 

This path was not as well maintained as the other. In some places it might have been considered a mule trail and there were times we had to make a decision between a right or left fork. 

As expected, there was a lot of zig-zagging. Down below the trail we could see a group of three horses playing around and running through the bushes. A small herd of cattle fed on a grassy slope. 

There weren't as many Inca ruins along this section, although we did find another chullpa. But this route was great for displaying Mount Veronica. By the time the clouds had cleared out, her beautiful white flanks radiated in splendor. 

Lone horse seen on the hike down.

Looking back up the steep slope.

Feeding cattle on the middle slopes.

The rugged slopes of Mount Veronica were very prominent on the hike down.

The view as we began to approach the village of Cachiquata.

At last we arrived on the outskirts of the village. I was a bit nervous here because I didn't know if the trail led through someone's backyard or across their property. But we traversed without incident. 

We walked through someone's farm. We saw no one, but passed pigs, ducks and different-looking cattle. Some of the modest dwellings were protected by stone walls. A couple of school boys strolled in front of us. 

Farm animals in Cachiquata.

Then Jenna noticed the cemetery. There was no sign and no gate, but a couple dozen obvious graves. Since I can't pass up a cemetery, we cautiously stepped inside the grounds and looked around. Most of the burials were marked with wooden crosses or an oval of rocks. Some had flowers growing inside the oval and others were decorated with figurines of Jesus or Mary. Wild grass grew all around and there was no attempt to have it manicured. I didn't know if we were allowed to be there, so we only stayed five minutes, then continued on our way. 

At this point it didn't take long until we were on the valley floor. This was the Sacred Valley, a long corridor that has been sacred to the Inca for hundreds of years. Once again we crossed the Urubamba River and took the only road available back to Ollantaytambo. By the time we arrived in the village the sun had set and darkness had begun to move in over the mountains. ♠

 

Cemetery on outskirts of Cachiquata.