Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

One of the fond memories I have with my grandpa Lacy is riding the Narrow Gauge Railroad from Durango. Although it was over thirty years ago, some of the memories have remained with me.

It was wintertime and north of Durango we saw a herd of elk that must have been two hundred in number. They grazed at a distance, in the flat of the valley. It was early when we began the ride and I remember thinking that it must have been cold for the elk and that hoarfrost must have grown on their fur.

Once the train left the sparsely scattered houses and any hint of civilization, we entered higher timber with ponderosa pine trees and then we rode through a slit in the rock and came to a narrow gorge. The train hugged the edge of the cliff and it was a long ways down, but it was the most beautiful sight I had ever beheld. At the bottom of this massive gorge, swishing down-river with visible whitewater currents, was the Animas River. I remember the turquoise-blue color of the river, and that it was more vibrant than any river I had ever seen.

Although it was winter, we sat in the open-air coach for part of the ride, feeling the crisp wind on our face and occasionally getting a burning cinder that floated past. We were with my brother, Walt, and younger cousins, Karson and Lehi. They were young and I wondered if they took in anything they saw.

At Cascade Canyon we turned around and made the trip back to Durango. That is as far as the train goes during the winter.

As an adult, I've ridden the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad three times. Each opportunity was unique in its own way. My favorite time of year was June, when the Animas River is at a turbulent rage from melting mountain snow. If you take the train to its terminus, you will end up in Silverton, elevation 9,318 feet.

Here are a few pictures of what you might expect along the way.

Trains leave every morning from Durango, Colorado's historic downtown. Not only do passengers line up for the train, but tourists also come to watch it depart.

The railroad reached Durango in 1881, and just eleven months later, in 1882, the spur to Silverton was complete.  In the early days it was used to haul silver and gold from the San Juan Mountains, but these days it carries tourists and backpackers.

The Durango to Silverton line is one of the few places in the United States that has seen continuous use of the steam locomotive. This series was built in 1925 by the Baldwin Locomotive Works. 

And we're off!

The route follows the Animas River for 45 miles to the old mining town of Silverton.

The San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado are some of the highest and most rugged of any mountains in North America. Dozens of peaks soar above thirteen thousand feet in elevation, and a handful topple the fourteen thousand mark. These mountains are very rich in minerals, drawing miners and prospectors alike.

Inside the coach passengers feel at ease sitting next to the window, gawking at the scenery. Windows are usually down and occasionally a burning cinder flies inside.

About an hour into the ride, and during the climb between Hermosa and Rockwood, the train passes beautiful Shalona Lake.

One of the most photogenic spots is where the train enters a slot in the mountain and emerges high atop the gorge of Animas Canyon, with the river far below. When everyone rushes to one side to take a picture, you worry that the train will tip over and topple off the edge!

From time to time, the conductor will blow steam over the river and create these eye-catching rainbows.

In early summer, when water levels are high, rafters can be spotted rolling on whitewater.

Just past Tank Creek is the Tall Timber Resort.  Anytime the train passes, you're sure to find a show-off going down the zip-line.

Needleton is one of the few stops along the route. A bridge that spans the river connects with other trails, including the path to Chicago Basin, a popular spot for peakbaggers. Here, a lone prospector plans to try his luck panning for gold.

Needleton was a station on the old Denver and Rio Grande Western railroad, with a post office between the years 1882 and 1919. Today there are just a few relics that remain.  

Just beyond the Needleton flag stop, there are two water tanks.  This wooden water tank seems to be more for appearance. . .

. . . while this one serves a more practical purpose.  Here the train stops to fill up with the water that will help run the steam engine.

It is silver that gave its name to the area. Since 1860, the San Juan Mountains have been a destination for those hoping to strike it rich. Hidden on steep mountain slopes and behind thick timber are abandoned silver mines such as this one.

Also hidden, but sometimes peeking out, are beautiful waterfalls cascading down the hillsides. Several streams feed into the river, most of them having to wend their way through tortuous landscape to get there.

The Animas River is cold and clear. I had no hesitation stooping down and taking a long drink from its rushing waters, or filling up my canteen.

Riding through some of Colorado's most scenic country, it would only be natural that you would find the Colorado Columbine.

You never know who you might find loitering along the track.

Before the days of the railroad, the ore was hauled out on burros and mules, each being able to carry 150 and 300 lbs., respectively. A packer normally led the mules tied together by ropes, and just herded the burros like sheep, along a variety of pack trails throughout the mining district. It was a daunting task considering the amount of animals and men needed to do the job, and the terrain of the mountains.

An old bridge crosses the river alongside the new bridge, just south of Elk Creek and Elk Park Siding.

The narrowness of the mountain canyons open up and the valley of Silverton comes into view.

The arrival of the railroad to Silverton in the summer of 1882 was a blessing. Ore could now be shipped to the smelters in Pueblo, Colorado at a rate of only twelve dollars per ton. The new, cheaper transportation proved to be a boon to Silverton, drawing both miners and businessmen alike, and dubbing it “the new Leadville.”

The train stops in Silverton (elevation 9,318 ft.) for a couple of hours and we take in a meal at Grumpy's Saloon. Without the tourists that come in on the train, Silverton is a sleepy town of 531 people; but a few times a day, it sees a significant influx.

Our saloon is complete with mounted deer heads on the wall, and a tireless girl at the piano.

Anytime during the day, especially along the upper elevations near Silverton, be prepared for a sudden burst of rain. This storm drenched the street just outside our saloon, but only lasted about ten minutes.

The mining district suffered some major setbacks, including the silver crash of 1893, and the Spanish Influenza that killed 10% of Silverton's population in 1918. Eventually, the train shifted from hauling ore, to hauling tourists.

After a little over two hours in Silverton, it is time head back to the train. People tromp over muddy ground to the train yard.

The three and a half hour ride back to Durango seems to take a bit longer.  We are tired and have just seen the same scenery. Now we struggle to stay awake. But there are moments when one can't help but to pop their head out the window and get that perfect picture. ♠