Sam Mountain, An Giang Provence, Vietnam

Sam Mountain in the distance.

After an interesting breakfast where our order was lost in translation, we flagged down a moto-taxi to head toward our destination for the day. At first, he too didn't know what we were trying to tell him. Then I heard him say several times, “Nui Sam?”

“YES!” I said, nodding in agreement. The two of us hopped on the back of his motorcycle and soon our hair was blowing in the warm breeze as we passed occasional buildings and rice paddy fields. The ride was only a couple miles and he charged us 100,000 dong.

Sam Mountain is considered part of Chau Doc, but it is detached from the main village. Apart from visiting many of the shrines, it was my goal to climb to the top, which was supposedly the highest mountain in the Mekong Delta.

Our driver dropped us off at the foot of Sam Mountain, next to the Tay An Pagoda. This was a bustling little area with motorbikes and bicycles buzzing all around, shops lining the street, and vendors along the sidewalk. Not intending just yet to hike up the hill, we set out to explore the shrines.

Naturally, Tay An Pagoda became our first stop. The ornate building was orange in color, complemented with a creamy white. It appeared a cross between Buddhist and Hindu. The entrance was guarded with statues of elephants, lions and Buddhist deity figurines. Carved into the face of the building I saw what appeared to chrysanthemums, and along the trimming of the roof were lotus blossoms. Atop the pagoda stood an ornate tower with an onion dome.

An official description says it was built in 1847 and has elements of Cham, Vietnamese, Chinese and Indian cultures. I thought it interesting that the white elephant had six tusks protruding from his mouth.

Tay An Pagoda.

Just down the road we found our second holy building. This was the Ba Chua Xu Temple. Contrasted with the pagoda, this structure was more square in shape, with a greenish blue-tiled roof that was layered and flared at the corners. It was built in 1820.

Inside was an open-air walkway with nooks on the sides filled with shrines. Lotus blossoms, sticks of incense and other offerings sat on tables, I'm assuming to be sold to devotees. I saw several ladies around a tray of suckling pig. I didn't know if that was meant to be an offering, or lunch.

The Ba Chua Xu Temple is also known as the Holy Mother of the Realm. Legend has it that in ancient times the Holy Mother helped the villagers fight back the Siam army. She also blessed them with good weather and a rich harvest. Now worshipers will come to touch her statue and ask for her blessing and protection.

Ba Chua Xu Temple.

Across the street we found another place of worship. This one was the tomb of Thoai Ngoc Hau. Don't ask me how to pronounce his name. And if it weren't for the internet, I wouldn't even know who he was.

Thoai Ngoc Hau joined the army in 1777 at the age of 16. He was a military commander in 1802 at the beginning of the Nguyen Dynasty where he was instrumental in conquering the north. He also established several villages and canals in the area.

His tomb was enclosed inside a building that looked like every other shrine in the area. Atop a box was a sculpture of his head. Admirers came to give praise to the departed man.

Shrine and tomb of Thoai Ngoc Hau.

Now it was time to find a way up the mountain. This was no normal mountain. Most of it was covered in thick growth, shrines, and shacks lived in by locals. Supposedly there was a “trail” that went to the top, but we didn't know if that trail was dirt or concrete. If there was a sign pointing toward the trail, we probably didn't understand it. We quickly learned this would be a game of trial and error.

We walked up a set of stone stairs past shrines and what appeared to be tiny tombs. The path twisted and turned and soon I had completely lost my bearings. 

The path was also a bit sketchy. Often we came startling close to someone's home and dogs would begin to bark. I worried we were entering someone's living space. Once we passed a pet monkey in a cage that looked very sickly.

Cluster of tombs as we hike up the hill. 

Roaming dogs.

At one point we could see the top of the hill, but our meager trail fizzled out. It was near here where I first caught a glimpse of the next ridge over and saw what appeared to be the face of a giant stone Buddha. The inadequate view left much to be desired and we hoped to catch a better view later.

From our dead-end we retraced our steps to the bottom of the hill and began anew along another path. Now on this new path the way felt better. The trail seemed wider and we didn't seem to enter any private spaces. There were several stands off to the side offering hammocks and refreshments. Nearly all were empty. This must not be a popular time for pilgrims. In fact, we were the only pilgrims we encountered the entire day.

Interesting roots of a tree on the way up.

I should add that the rain was off and on the entire time. We used umbrellas as needed. The pathway was constantly wet.

At one point near the top we passed an uncommon vendor. They spoke no English. We bought two bottles of Pepsi for 40,000 dong and poured them into ice-filled glasses. Then we lounged in hammocks while sipping our drinks and enjoying the view. It was one of the highlights of the day and worth every dong we paid!

Jordan in the rain. 

A well-appreciated Pepsi break.

We continued our way, passing other shrines. At last we reached the top, which ended up being the most beautiful shrine of the entire hike. The complex consisted of several buildings, each painted red with intricate designs. This Buddhist temple seemed to have more of a Japanese style to it. The grounds were finely manicured with lush gardens and quaint ponds.

I was, however, disappointed that there was no 360° panoramic view at the top. There were several views along the way that offered vistas in different directions, including some that pointed toward the mountains of Cambodia. These at the top pointed toward the town of Chau Doc and the Bassac River.

Beautiful temple at the top of Sam Mountain. 

A red bridge crosses a pond at this Buddhist temple. 

A bathroom with a breeze!

At this point we were uncertain with the weather. There were serious storm clouds in the distance. The previous night we had a massive monsoonal downpour and didn't want to get stuck in something like that. Taking that into consideration, we decided to take the gondola down.

The gondola cost 90,000 dong each and required no effort. Rain splatters on the glass blurred much of the view, but we could see well the red-tiled roofs of the temples, the settlement of Sam Mountain, and the rising mount. I also caught a confirming glance of the giant stone Buddha head carved in rock on the far side of the mountain.

When we made it to the bottom I was determined to continue to the back side of the mountain. My first goal was to find the large stone Buddha, which we did within fifteen minutes of walking. It appeared to be under construction and I couldn't tell if it was a new sculpture, or if they were repairing the old.

This was our view of this stone Buddha on the gondola ride.

Once on the street, this is what it looked like. 

Along the way we passed a cemetery. I didn't know who was buried here, or whether they were important people. I also didn't know if the entombed were cremated, or embalmed and buried whole as they are in the West.

Each grave consisted of an above-ground tomb with a memorial on the front. In front of each memorial was a little shelf where family could place offerings. We used our phone to translate one of them and got the following: From the mother's grave, BUI THI CUC, Sunflower: 49 years old, Died 25-8 lunar month, Year of the Dog 1970.

Little cemetery on Sam Mountain.

Walking just down the street, we arrived at the Chua Phuoc Dien Pagoda, a beautiful temple set back within the trees of the hillside. A long set of stairs led to the temple complex, including a lotus pond and shrine to the Maitreya Buddha. Near the pond was a patio area with statues of the Four Heavenly Kings, who are Buddhist gods watching over the four cardinal directions.

Higher into the complex was the main hall where a traditional statue of Buddha sat atop a pedestal. Beyond this room is where things got interesting. An archway on the back wall led inside a dark tunnel with two stone snakes guarding the entrance. These serpents had the appearance of fire coming from their eyes and mouth. Further inside the tunnel came the sound of tumbling water and the sight of a fountain coming down the walls. Part of the stone floor was puddled with water. At the end of the short, but dark puddle was a shrine to three Buddhist figurines. The name of this place was The Cavern of Green and White Snakes.

Chua Phuoc Dien Pagoda, a very beautiful temple complex.

A second archway from the main hall led to a more extensive network of tunnels. Walking through here we entered a dark corridor and a stone staircase that led deeper into the cave. Water dripped from the top of the tunnel and we had to be careful not to slip on the rock. (We had to remove our shoes and socks at the entrance of the temple, so this entire time we walked in bare feet.)

This obscure tunnel snaked inside the cavern and at one time made a fork. We thought for a moment we might become lost inside the maze. As we walked we passed small shrines housed within a small cavity. The tunnel then opened up into a larger cavern with several shrines. This section was lit up with lights. At last the dank tunnel system came to an end and we were again outside in the fresh air, but in a new, unfamiliar section of the temple complex.

Buddha inside Phuoc Dien Pagoda.  The entrance to the cave is the archway on the right.

There is a story associated with the Phuoc Dien Pagoda. Around the 1840's the pagoda was just a bamboo and leaf hermitage. It was built by a lady named Le Thi Tho, whose dharma name was Dieu Thien. (A dharma name is given by a Buddhist teacher to a student to symbolize his or her commitment to the Buddhist path.) She built it as a place to practice.

In 1836 she became a nun, and in 1839 she received the Bhikkhuni precepts, which are a set of rules, or code of conduct for Buddhist nuns. In 1845 she decided to live in seclusion, so she chose Sam Mountain as her place of practice.

Next to her hermitage was a deep mountain cave where there lived two pythons. These snakes were known to be fierce, but when Dieu Thien moved in, they did not harm her. Instead they came next to her, lied still, and listened to her recite sutras.

After her death the local people donated money and rebuilt the pagoda. Over the many years that followed there were several renovations and improvements until the temple complex became what it is today.

We finished our visit and found several more beautiful gardens, statues, and shrines. Being that we were on a hill, there were amazing views across rice paddy fields and mountains, both of Vietnam and Cambodia. Jordan and I both agreed that this temple was probably the most fascinating thing we had seen up to that point on our trip.

More beautiful gardens and ponds at the temple complex.

Looking toward Cambodia and flooded ground from monsoon rains.

By this time we were starving. Next to the cemetery was a nice little outdoor eating place with aluminum tables and plastic chairs. Only one other family was eating there.

I told Jordan we were going to order the dish advertised. A picture with a name was posted on the wall: Vit Nau Chao. Once again, the lady trying to help us knew no English. We figured things out and sat at a table.

Twenty minutes later she brought a large ceramic pot of Vit Nau Chao on a small propane stove. This would be a hot pot. She also served a large plate of angel hair noodles and another of greens. She gave us chili sauce and small bowls. We figured things out and finished nearly everything except most of the greens.

Soon we were stopped by a motorcyclist, asking if we wanted a ride. After five minutes of charades and pointing to places on Google Maps, the two of us hopped on the back of his bike and sped back to Chau Doc. ♠

Vit Nou Chou, served via hot pot.

Squaw Peak (#30)

Yes, I know that a few years ago the name was changed to Kyhv Peak, but I tend to be stubborn and don't like it when names are changed on account of political correctness. And there's a story behind this name. But I digress . . .

Rock Canyon is a sight to behold! Rugged cliffs that thrust upward and sidewards provide a playground for rock climbers and a home to bighorn sheep. I was here in October when Mother Nature couldn't decide whether it was winter or fall. Autumn leaves were just past their prime, but still vibrant enough to add another dimension of the beauty to the canyon.

Interesting rock formations in Rock Canyon.

The trail is wide in Rock Canyon.

For the first hour I just took in the experience. I was happy to be here and happy there was no rain. A handful of walkers were on the trail, which is what I would expect on a Tuesday afternoon.

The path was wide enough for a narrow vehicle. I read that William M. Wall received a grant in 1855 to build a road up the canyon. I have no idea how far it went. Once completed he charged a toll of 50 cents for every load of wood that was hauled on the road.

I don't know how long the road was used for motorized traffic, but I did see many signs of human interaction. A pipeline had been placed underground to capture water from the creek. (The creek bed was dry. In some places I could press my ear and hear the water rushing through the pipes.) I also saw remnants of a system that must have predated the pipeline. It was a water channel made of concrete, but now sat dilapidated. I even saw a stone drinking fountain that was still in use.

Dilapidated channel. 

More interesting geology.

One of the earliest historical references to Rock Canyon comes in relation to the Battle at Fort Utah in 1850. To sum up the contention in the most simple of terms, a conflict between the Mormons and Utes was coming to a head. The Mormons were encroaching upon land used by the Utes and they, in turn, were stealing cattle from the Mormons. The previous year there had already been a conflict between the two, a clash that became known as the Battle Creek Massacre.

Fort Utah was built near the Provo River and near a Timpanogos (Ute) village. The settlers used nets to catch fish out of Utah Lake and their cattle used pastures that were once used by wild game, thus diminishing the Ute's ability to procure food. Also, measles broke out among both the natives and Mormons, but the natives, who did not have immunity, were affected much more. When winter came they were in desperate need of food and consequently stole 50 to 60 head of cattle from the Mormons.

In February of 1850 a group of militiamen were dispatched from Salt Lake to confront the Indians. A conflict ensued and ten Utes were killed along with one Mormon. The Utes split into two groups, one fleeing toward Spanish Fork and the other into Rock Canyon.

The Utes that fled into Rock Canyon were led by Big Elk, who was already suffering from the measles. The army split into two groups, one of them following the Timpanogos into Rock Canyon. There they found more bodies, including that of Big Elk, who had died of his wounds. With the help of Black Hawk, they tracked the Timpanogos and eventually killed more and took many as prisoners.

One of the bodies they found was that of Big Elk's wife. Trying to escape, she climbed up a cliff, then slipped and fell to her death. In honor of her, the summit above Rock Canyon was given the name “Squaw Peak.”

Looking at Provo Peak from Buffalo Meadow.

Back to my hike, the trail ascended steadily, climbing over 1,000 feet in 1.7 miles. From here the trail continued, but I diverted onto another trail in the First Left Fork of Rock Canyon. This is where the path really started to climb, needing only a mile to gain 1,000 feet.

This trail, instead of being gravelly and wide, now turned into a foot-wide path of dirt. As I walked through more scrub oak and aspen, the fall colors really presented themselves. Being past their prime, they were now not as vibrant, but still very pretty. Most had fallen from their limbs and sat on the ground or atop pine tree needles. In the distance, through the trees, I could see the snow-capped slopes of Provo Peak.

Although beautiful, I couldn't see much past the trees during this section. It wasn't until I arrived at the first meadow that some of the more majestic scenery began to unfold. Without the hindrance of trees I could now see Buffalo Peak, Cascade Mountain and Mount Timpanogos. Three times within a minute I heard the blast of a hunting rifle, probably shooting at an elk.

I hoped to see more wildlife than I did, which was none. In this backcountry there are deer, elk and bighorn sheep.

Cascade Mountain (in back) and Buffalo Peak (at left). 

Mount Timponogos in distance. 

I arrived at Squaw Peak in 2 hours 9 minutes. The view from the top was incredible. Not only could I see all the aforementioned places, but also Utah Lake and all of Utah Valley, with Provo being the closest city. The Provo Temple construction site, Lavell Edwards Stadium and the Mission Training Center were all relatively within close view.

On the south side, however, sat a precipice of dizzying heights. The calculated elevation drop from Squaw Peak to the point on the trail directly below was 2,188 feet!

I would have loved to dilly-dally all day long, but the reality was that storm clouds would be moving in and I wanted to be down by dark.

From Squaw Peak, looking over Provo and Utah Lake. 

Looking across Rock Canyon toward Y Mountain and Provo Peak.

Looking toward south end of Utah Valley. Mount Nebo and Loafer Mountain in distance. 

The way down was equally beautiful, but went much quicker. I took a couple detours that added to my mileage. By the time I got down to the main part of Rock Canyon the foot traffic had increased. I passed several trail runners, evening walkers, and rock climbers.

I talked to one man who was walking his dog. He had lived here for 26 years and came walking on the trail nearly every day. He told me that there are several caves in the area, although some of them have been blocked off because people have died inside. He also assured me that no one except the young people call it Kyhv Peak. To everyone else it still is, and will forever be, Squaw Peak. ♠

Rock climbing in Rock Canyon.

Squaw Peak

Distance from car: 3.8 miles

Elevation gain to peak: 2,721 feet

Final Elevation: 7,838 feet

Total round-trip distance (including detours): 8.1 miles

Total elevation gain: 3,827 feet

Squaw Peak, aka Kyhv Peak.

A perfect way to end the hike. . .  at the BYU Creamery! 

Petroglyph (pictograph) Site #4

 

Same as glyph above, except bottom is altered to uncover older layer.

"The moon was rising and the canyons were gathering deeper shadows. The river caught the moon's reflection and gave it back to the sky.  He built his fire up and listened, but there were no sounds in the night."--Louis L'Amour from The Haunted Mesa.

Petroglyph location: Central Utah

A Canyon Curiosity

Recently I explored a nearby canyon and found something unique. Inside a little alcove, in a side-canyon of a side-canyon, sat two round Indian ruins.

They sat close to a cliff wall, but most ruins positioned like this use the cliff wall as one of the structure walls. This did not. Instead, the walls of the ruin stood independently and made a ring.

There were two rings, one of them being slightly wider in diameter and taller. The bigger ruin was approximately 60% intact, while the smaller one 75%. Judging from the remaining walls, there were no doors on these structures. It also didn't appear that at any time there was a roof.

The walls appeared to be made by turning flat rocks upright, arranging them into a ring, then fastening them in place with a mud mortar. Partially exposed behind some of the mud were branches placed atop the rocks and parallel to the ground, probably to help keep the structure fastened together.

These were not kivas as they did not go underground. I also do not believe they were cisterns as they only had sand at the bottom, and not something that would retain water.

There were no other visible ruins in the alcove that I could see, and I know of no others in the immediate vicinity (meaning a few hundred yards or so).

I have never seen any structure like this in person, but it is interesting to note that I have seen pictures of a similar structure only ten miles away. ♠

10 Pleasant Surprises in Mexico City

Have you ever spent a weekend in Mexico City?

We did just that (plus a couple days). Oh, what a fascinating city! This former capital of the Aztec Empire, and now the capital of Mexico, blew my mind with its vibrancy, pulse and breadth. We did our homework before we left, but there were still things that took us by surprise.

Parish Church of St. James the Apostle in Tlatelolco.

Interior of Parish Church of John the Baptist of Coyoacán.

1. Old churches. It seemed to me like there were old churches on every other block! And when I say old churches, I mean ones that were built in the 15― and 1600's. Most that I saw were built in either gray or off-white stone. Some were even built with stone acquired after dismantling Aztec pyramids. My favorite was San Juan Bautista in the Coyoacán neighborhood. It was completed in 1552. My favorite part about it were all the beautiful murals on the ceiling of the interior.

Old Aztec shrine on display at the Pino Suárez metro stop.

2. Pino Suárez Ruin. During our three days in Mexico City our hotel was just a block from the Pino Suárez metro stop which worked out pretty conveniently for us. On our second day, as we had already taken the escalators down to the underground, I was surprised to see an Aztec shrine displayed there. It was left in situ, with walls around it so we could look but not touch. It was discovered during the excavation and construction of the subway. While excavating the shrine they found offerings of parakeets, ducks, cranes, dogs and even infant humans. I am amazed to think of what has already been discovered beneath Mexico City, and what still remains hidden.

Street food in Mexico City. 

3. Street Food. I've been to Saigon, Phnom Penh, and Bangkok―and Mexico City might beat them all when it comes to street food and other vendors. There are carts everywhere! From tacos to tortas to tlayudas, there's a little bit of everything of the Mexican Cuisine. With the exception of one little neighborhood we visited, we found an abundance of food carts in every place we went.

Sky tram over a Mexico City neighborhood.

4. Riding a sky tram. We didn't even know that a sky tram existed in Mexico City until we were on a bus en route to Teotihuacan and saw these gondolas traveling on cables high above a densely-packed neighborhood on the outskirts of town. Right then we were determined to figure out how and where to ride them, and later that evening we did just that. Just before sunset we had the view of an eagle, which proved to be the best vista of the entire trip!

Inside the former convent of San Jerónimo.

5. Going inside a convent. Part of the plan was to walk around the former convent of San Jerónimo. It was founded in the 1,500's and was one of the first in Mexico City. I knew that it was now a university, so my plan was just to walk around and view it from the outside. Surprisingly we found a front desk with someone in it, and even more surprisingly, they let us enter the grounds as long as we stayed on the ground level. Inside we passed by gardens and courtyards, and stepped inside the old church. In one room, the coro bajo, they had years ago excavated the remains of nearly 200 nuns who used to live in the convent. The sepulchers had been placed below the floor. This was a very fascinating visit.

Leftover art from Day of the Dead.

6. Day of the Dead remnants. We visited Mexico City on November 6-8, less than a week after the country celebrated Día de Muertos. I don't know how much was left over from the holiday versus how much was part of the permanent scene, but there were artistic renditions of skeletons and skulls everywhere! We saw displays in old churches, on sidewalks, and on buildings.

Suadero tacos.

7. Suadero Tacos. Until this trip I had never heard of suadero tacos. The name refers to the meat that comes from the belly or flank of the cow, which is slowly cooked in oil and then crisped before putting into tortillas. When I bit into the meaty, crispy little chunks of beef and fat, it was pure heaven! They were my favorite tacos in Mexico City. If anyone is wondering, my second favorite taco was arranchera, and number three, al pastor.

The other side of the barricade is reserved only for women and children.

8. Women and children sections of the metro. The Mexico City metro system can be a very good option for getting from one place to another. Having said that, it can also be a little rough and crowded. Several times we were packed in cars like sardines. An environment like this is ripe for abuse. In an effort to protect against violence and sexual assault against women and children, the metro has reserved the first three carriages for them only. I think it's an excellent idea. We can also attest that it was well enforced because a few times we weren't paying attention and walked to the wrong side before getting kicked out.

Common street scene outside of the tourist area. 

9. How few tourists. I am very well aware that there has been push-back against the rise in tourism in Mexico City. And yes, we did see a fair amount around the Zócalo, Coyoacán, and especially at Teotihuacan. But for a large chunk of our stay, we saw no tourists. We used the subway to move around and didn't encounter any tourists there. We did quite a bit of walking in other parts of the city and saw very few gringos like ourselves.

Xochipilli, inside the National Museum of Anthropology. 

10. Anthropology Museum. Of course, we knew this museum would be good, but when we got there, we were pleasantly surprised with how good and big it really was, and how many artifacts it had on display. The museum has different rooms for different groups of ancient people, including the Aztec, Maya, Olmec, those at Teotihuacan, Northern Mexico, and even groups in the United States such as the Anasazi. The amount of artifacts from Mesoamerica astounded me. It wasn't just pieces of pottery and ancient tools; it was elaborate and large figurines. There was so much to see that the museum closed before we could see it all, and that was with us rushing through. I would rate this in the top five museums I've ever been to, coming behind only to places like The British Museum and The Prado.

Night market at Alameda Central.

Bonus: Night Market at Alameda Central. On our final evening (a Saturday) I was intent on finding a night market. Through our research we learned about the market at Plaza Garibaldi. It did not disappoint. We ate lots of tacos and were serenaded by mariachi bands. To return to our hotel we sought to catch the subway by walking five blocks to Alameda Central, the large park next to the Palace of Fine Arts. When we arrived, we were surprised to find another night market. I didn't see many other tourists tromping around. It was pretty much all locals. They sold food, clothing, accessories and a slew of other stuff. We didn't buy anything because we had already eaten, but we agreed that this was the perfect ending to our trip. ♠