Oregon Road Trip: 8 Days; 6 States; 2,362 Miles

This would be the longest road trip we had ever taken as a family. I was excited, but a little apprehensive about having to spend so much time in the car. It proved to be one of our most memorable vacations ever. We didn't do anything extraordinary—like go to amusement parks or baseball games. Instead we kept it simple and saw some stunning landscapes. Every day was an adventure! 

Mormon Crickets.

Plague of Mormon Crickets: Day 1; Middle of Nowhere, Nevada; 302 miles. This was one of the most disgusting things I had seen in my life! At first we thought dirt had blown onto the highway, but upon closer examination we discovered the dirt was crawling! We had to stop to truly get a grasp of what we were witnessing. All around us for miles—on the road, on the hills—crawled millions of crickets! It is interesting that they all seemed to be instinctively migrating the same direction. On the highway, many of them had been plastered onto the pavement by passing traffic (which wasn't much). It was a sight that had to be seen to be believed, and I was very grateful that I wasn't a pioneer trying to eek out a living and planting crops.

Austin, Nevada.

Ghost town of Austin: Day 1; Austin, Nevada; 340 miles. With the nickname of “The Loneliest Road in America,” it is no surprise that U.S. Route 50 is home to some quaint little ghost towns. Nestled among the foothills of the Toiyabe Mountains, Austin is an old mining town with lots of boarded up and empty buildings. In 1863, Austin boasted a population of 10,000 people, but now there are less than 200. We spent about an hour here, walking along Main Street, driving up to Stokes Castle, and roaming through one of four fascinating cemeteries.

 

Reno, Nevada.

The Biggest Little City in the World: Day 1; Reno, Nevada; 513 miles. This was our first time ever in Reno. I was excited to see what the mini-Las Vegas would look like. We enjoyed our walk along the Trukee River, which runs through the middle of town. But my first impressions of Reno: dirty and sketchy—just like Las Vegas.

  

Doyle, California.

Small white church: Day 2; Doyle, California; 555 miles. I honestly don't know a thing about this little building. As we drove down Highway 395, I spotted a small white wooden church with a picket fence around it. Short steps led to the front entrance and a white wooden cross sat perched on top. It looked like something out of Little House on the Prairie. And to boot, it was next to a cemetery.

 

Burney Falls.

Burney Falls: Day 2; Cascade Mountains, California; 676 miles. This was my first time traveling through the Cascades and I wasn't disappointed. No one else was, either. The kids were surprised when they first set eyes upon the mighty waterfall. One hundred and twenty nine feet high and two hundred and fifty wide. It is indeed impressive. We walked the 1.3 mile-loop that circumvents the falls. Burney Falls was a detour from our route, but it was well worth it.

 

Clam Beach.

First view of the Pacific Ocean: Day 2; Clam Beach, California; 884 miles. We thought we'd never make it. The drive between Redding and Arcata was beautiful, but a very curvy road. But at last we made it to the beach! It wasn't at all what we expected. We found a super strong wind blowing from the sea and a very rugged coast line—choppy waves, wind-swept sand, drift logs and icy-cold water. Hills clad with pine trees rose in the distance. Right away we knew our June vacation would have no sunbathing or dips in the ocean.

Redwood Forest.

Walking with giants: Day 3; Redwood Forest, California; 915 miles. Our first contact with these massive trees came at Prairie Creek Redwood State Park. I was surprised at how few visitors we encountered. It felt as if we had the forest to ourselves. For over three miles we wandered along moss-lined trails beneath an impressive canopy of redwood trees. It is difficult to comprehend until you've actually been there. It was like wandering through a fantasy-land, where we could expect elves and hobbits to pop out at any time. There is a tame herd of Roosevelt elk near the entrance of the park. Prairie Creek is one of many places a visitor could go. Whatever you do, you need to get out and walk to truly gain the experience.

Smith River.

Chilling by the river: Day 3; Smith River, California; 949 miles. The Smith River is named after Jedediah Smith, the first European to explore this area by a route other than sea. We drove through an impressive redwood grove with lots of camping spots and picnic tables. Our stop here was completely spontaneous, as we were looking for someplace else. But it turned out to be a pleasant intermission. We chilled by the river and occasionally rolled up our pant legs and waded in. The kids had fun finding flat rocks and skipping them across the water.

Macklyn Cove.

Macklyn Cove: Day 3; Brookings, Oregon; 973 miles. At last in Oregon! Although we had a beach near our hotel, we chose someplace else for our first sandy spot. Macklyn Cove is more on the secluded side. The easiest route to get there included parking on a steep and narrow dead-end road, then walking down a flight of stairs. This place didn't disappoint. We found sandy stretches, as well as rocky coves. We spent a couple hours, wading in the ice-cold water and exploring the shoreline. Then we watched the sun go down and silhouette the cliffs that rose above the water.

Harbor at Brookings, Oregon.

Harbor walk: Day 4; Brookings, Oregon; 973 miles. I've always dreamed of spending an extended period of time out at sea on a small fishing boat. This morning—while everyone else slept— I walked to the harbor and gave myself a tour. A low fog hung over the port. In the early morning, the still water reflected an image of vessels and their masts. I walked along the dock and admired the character of each ship, most of them old and rusty, each with a unique name that tied it to the sea.

Tide pool at Lone Ranch Beach.

Searching for sea creatures: Day 4; Lone Ranch Beach, Oregon; 978 miles. The fog still hung low as we pulled into the parking area at Lone Ranch Beach, with hills of spruce behind a wide stretch of sand. Although devoid of spectacular sea stacks like many of the other beaches, this shoreline is abundant in tide pools. We removed our shoes and braved the chilly water to get a closer look at all the marine life clinging to the rocks. We found starfish, anemone, mussels, and a variety of colorful shells.

Lunch at Arch Rock.

Lunch with a view: Day 4; Arch Rock, Oregon; 986 miles. This stretch along Highway 101 is arguably the most scenic in all of Oregon. We could have spent all day exploring hidden coves and picturesque beaches. Since time was of the essence, however, we had to pick and choose, unfortunately bypassing several places. With the exception of a few meals, we always bought our food at a grocery store and ate outside or in our hotel. The view point at Arch Rock provided picnic tables, along with a fantastic vantage point to observe some of the sea stacks.

Coos Bay, Oregon.

Dinner by the bay: Day 4; Coos Bay, Oregon; 1,080 miles. Coos Bay has always been one of those places that has stuck out on a map, calling me to come. And on this day, we finally came. But it began a bit rocky when I made a U-turn, not knowing I was on a one-way street, and for a small moment, risked the lives of our entire family! Unbeknownst to me, Coos Bay does not sit next to the Ocean, but is inland a few miles, next to a bay. (Imagine that!) We ate fish and chips—and other fish food—on the boardwalk next to the bay. Several boats are docked there, including a boat / museum.

Oregon sand dunes.

Sand Dunes: Day 5; Florence, Oregon; 1,130 miles. We didn't plan on stopping here, but I took a serendipitous left-hand turn off the 101 and fifteen minutes later we were looking over a beautiful stretch of shoreline with deep-blue ocean on one side, and a never-ending mound of fine sand on the other. I never would have imagined sand dunes in Oregon, but here they were. I think this would have been a fun family beach had it been twenty degrees warmer. Instead, we waded in shallow water until our feet turned to popsicles, then dried them off on the warm sand.

Heceta Head Lighthouse.

Heceta Head Lighthouse: Day 5; Lane County, Oregon; 1,148 miles. Coming around the bend from Sea Lion Point, just before passing Devils Elbow, a very photogenic lighthouse comes into view, perched on the distant cliffs. I wasn't sure if we would stop here, but once I saw it, it was too enticing not to. The Heceta Head Lighthouse is a beautiful red and white structure built in 1893 and named after the Basque Explorer, Bruno de Heceta. The beam can shine for 21 nautical miles, making it the most visible light on the Oregon Coast. Closer to the lighthouse you can park near the beach and hike there on a paved trail.

View from our hotel.

Room with a view: Day 5; Newport, Oregon; 1,185 miles. Just being an average family, we usually can't afford a hotel on the beach. But this time we splurged. Upon arrival we found our room to have a superb view of Nye Beach, complete with balcony and chairs. Especially with the cold weather, it was pleasant to merely sit on the balcony and enjoy the vista. At night we watched the ships slowly move across the dark waters, and to the north of us the rotating beam of a lighthouse.

Yaquina Bay Bridge.

Run on the beach: Day 6; Newport Oregon; 1,185 miles. I had to take advantage of the long stretch of beach below our hotel. I woke up before anyone else and jogged south along the sandy coast, just feet from the incoming waves. Near the mouth of the Yaqina River I ran up and over dunes of sand and along a trail toward the bridge. The Yaquina Bay Bridge is a beautiful piece of architecture with several steel arches.

Chowder Bowl at Depoe Bay, Oregon.

Chugging oysters: Day 6; Depoe Bay, Oregon; 1,198 miles. When looking for whales at Depoe Bay became fruitless, we decided to peruse the shops along the main road (Highway 101). We bought some tasty kettle corn, watched salt water taffy being made, and found a good gift shop. Then we decided to step foot into the Chowder Bowl. When I saw the oyster cocktail on the menu, I knew I had to try it. When the raw shellfish came served in a shot glass, I had to ask how to eat it. (This was an embarrassment to my family and is a result of living a deprived life in the desert.) The waitress was so excited to teach me that she ran in back and grabbed a shot for herself! She instructed that first you drizzle it with Tabasco sauce, then you douse it with lemon juice. Then you down it in one gulp. That simple. On the count of three, and after a toast, (and with the entire restaurant looking on) we successfully consumed our oyster cocktails. At least two people filmed us and afterward I received an ovation. Probably the closest I will ever come to becoming a celebrity.

Mount Hood as seen from across the Columbia River.

View of Mount Hood: Day 6; Washougal, Washington; 1,320 miles. Just over the border from Oregon, and a few miles east of Vancouver, Washington is the small town of Washougal. I am glad we decided to spend the night here. It has a very rural feel to it, and seems a hundred miles away from the din of Portland. We lodged near the Columbia River, with a view of Mount Hood across the waters. We enjoyed sunset over the river and listened to a powerful thunderstorm move in overnight.

Columbia River Gorge.

Cape Horn Lookout: Day 7; Columbia River Gorge, Washington; 1,329 miles. The Columbia River is something to be revered. This mammoth waterway is the fourth largest river in the United States and discharges more water into the Pacific Ocean than any other river in the Americas. You can either drive it on the Oregon side or the Washington. I'm happy we chose the Washington side. I believe it is much less popular, yet just as spectacular.

Panther Creek Falls.

Cascades in the Cascades: Day 7; Panther Creek Falls, Washington; 1,366 miles. On this day it was my goal to see some beautiful waterfalls—and that we did! Our first waterfall we accessed by walking through a cemetery. The second we walked a short distance up on canyon, not far off the road. The third—and my favorite—required a twelve-mile drive deeper into the mountain range. Then we set out on foot through a thick forest, down to the bottom of a ravine. That put us face-to-face with Panther Creek Falls. As you can see from the picture, it is very impressive.

Upper Perry Arch Bridge, Oregon.

Upper Perry Arch Bridge: Day 7; Union County, Oregon; 1,590 miles. This stop was purely serendipitous. We crossed back into Oregon and surprisingly passed through a beautiful forest, which I believe is part of the Blue Mountains. It is right off the Old Oregon Trail. What we found was an arched bridge that spans over the Grande Ronde River and railroad tracks. The bridge is of an historical nature (built in 1924), but for us it was just a fun place to get out and stretch our legs. We crossed the railroad tracks and walked down to the water.

Shoshone Falls.

Shoshone Falls: Day 8; Twin Falls, Idaho; 1,894 miles. I have wanted to see this for a long time. Sometimes referred to as Niagara of the West, Shoshone Falls is an impressive cascade along the Snake River in Idaho. Even though water levels were high from a heavy snowfall this winter, I was worried that the falls might not be up to capacity. The size of the falls depends on the amount of water released from the Milner Dam, 24 miles up-stream. Indeed we weren't disappointed. The falls flowed at 85% of capacity and we enjoyed the view from the top with dozens of other people.

Harrisville Park, Utah.

Harrisville Park: Day 8; Harrisville, Utah; 2,072 miles. By this time, we were anxious to get home. Our drive today would be over nine hours. We found a small park with a pond where we pulled over to eat lunch. Although we had never been to this particular park before, it felt good to be in familiar territory with the Wasatch Mountains reigning in the background.

Home sweet home!: Day 8; Somewhere in Utah; 2,362 miles. ♠

Shall I compare thee to a summer's day?

Shall I compare thee to a summer’s day?

Thou art more lovely and more temperate:

Rough winds do shake the darling buds of May,

And summer’s lease hath all too short a date;

Sometime too hot the eye of heaven shines,

And often is his gold complexion dimm'd;

And every fair from fair sometime declines,

By chance or nature’s changing course untrimm'd;

But thy eternal summer shall not fade,

Nor lose possession of that fair thou ow’st;

Nor shall death brag thou wander’st in his shade,

When in eternal lines to time thou grow’st:

So long as men can breathe or eyes can see,

So long lives this, and this gives life to thee. ♠

Iambic pentameter courtesy of William Shakespeare. (Sonnet 18) 

Run Along Chetco Cove

We left our room and began jogging on the road across the harbor. We inhaled fresh morning air and enjoyed misty fog that hung over the masts of the boats.
 
Two Columbian black-tailed deer walked down the hill near our hotel, feeding on grass. That would be a good omen.
 
We ran along the west side of the harbor and to the jetty where the Chetco River meets the Pacific Ocean. There we stopped and stretched our waking muscles.
 

My daughter, Jenna, has made the goal to run in as many states as possible. We couldn't pass up Oregon. And it was a good excuse to work our muscles after endless hours in a car.
 
I sat and leaned and pulled on one side, then repeated on the other. Thighs, calves, quads, piriformis. Then I was ready to go.
 
A sea lion lay asleep below us, not yet up and moving at this early hour. Another good omen.
 
We ran along the beach, just far enough away that the crawling foam of the water couldn't reach our feet. The black sand felt like running on a sponge.
 
Seagulls squawked and flew above us. A man and his golden lab walked alongside, the dog frolicking in the water. We passed an early-morning fisherman with a long pole with his taut line cast into the ocean.
 
Our muscles were now loosening and our stride became a rhythm and everything felt in place. The fresh scent of ocean permeated everything and took the edge off of any discomfort we may have felt.
 
At the far south end of the beach, at a place that appeared to be the terminus of our sandy stretch, we found an arch in the rock wall—and a passage to the other side! We entered the portal and found ourselves on a new beach with a new stretch of sand.
 

But this morning was not all about the run. It was about the experience. There before us sat a tide pool begging to be explored.
 
While still panting we discovered all sorts of sea creatures. Jenna found the first of many starfish. In orange and blue and red the curious critters attached themselves to the rock and sat motionless, letting the incoming waves lap over them.
 
Anemones—by the hundreds—surrounded the star fish. If you didn't look closely you could miss them. They camouflaged well. Some were small, the size of a quarter, and others large like a softball. Their trunks attached to the rock, and they were soft to the touch like a marshmallow. Most of these small sea creatures remained closed, appearing as mere bumps on the rock. Several had opened their tentacles, shimmering colorfully in the water.
 

We sat at the edge of the pool, careful not to soak our shoes. What an array of sea life! On every rock there seemed to be hundreds of creatures, including mussels and other colorful shells.
 
To top things off we found a waterfall pouring off a cliff. The fog remained, shrouding the sea stacks and the spruce trees on the hills of the shore. We chose to run to the end of this second beach where we turned around.
 
This world is full of so many beautiful places. This morning our run probably stretched only a mile in one direction. Considering how pretty it was, it boggles my mind to imagine this stretch of coastline, multiplied by the total coastline of the planet! There is so much to see, and so little time to waste. How much more valuable is it then to share it with someone we love. ♠

Del Mar

I wasn't expecting much. In fact, I was sure that when we made it down to the end of the road there would be someone patrolling the beach who would immediately turn us back. When we saw the border patrol, we almost turned around before we even got there.
 
Indeed these were hysterical times, appearing as something from a science-fiction movie. Cops and coastal patrol did all they could to keep people off the beaches and boardwalks. But their efforts proved futile, akin to playing whack-a-mole with a stubborn people, anxious to get a breath of fresh air and hear the rolling motion of the waves.
 

And as for us, we weren't sure where we were going. We spontaneously parked the car on Camino del Mar, found a side-road and marched west. We didn't know what we'd find.
 
When we arrived at the end of the side-road, the scene wasn't exactly as I had expected. Instead of a beach on the other side of the dead-end, there were railroad tracks. And as for the border patrol agent, he was talking and laughing with two guys and sitting on a guard rail. When the agent left for a moment to answer a call I approached the two men and asked, “Does he care that we're here?”
 
“No, not at all. He's here watching for a boat that's supposed to be smuggling narcotics. He doesn't care what you do.”
 

That was all we needed to hear. We already saw one man on the other side of the tracks, so we decided to slip over the railing and do it ourselves. When we did, we couldn't believe our eyes.
 

We realized that we now stood on a high bluff top overlooking the ocean. Far below us sat miles of empty beach with what seemed like tiny ripples rolling in. I didn't dare get too close to the edge for fear that it would give way and sluff us to the bottom.
 
Near us another hill climbed to a higher point on the bluff. We walked to the top and found an even grander view. The crest of this hill stretched a couple hundred yards in the form of a narrow strip, with train tracks below us on one side and steep cliffs on the other. A dirt trail meandered along the middle of the narrow strip and hundreds of yellow and purple flowers grew on all sides!
 

We walked very slowly along the trail, stopping frequently to take pictures. With every step there was a photo opportunity that couldn't be passed. Sometimes I would steady my right foot and lean toward the edge of the cliff to snap a dramatic landscape photo, but the thought of falling off scared me to death and I would quickly retract.
 
Jenelle and I agreed that this was one of the greatest discoveries of our trip. It was perhaps one of the most picturesque places I had ever seen—and it was just a strip of dirt on the other side of the railroad tracks. And we almost didn't go there!
 

We returned the way we came and found ourselves once again on Camino del Mar. We came across a dessert shop where we created our own cup of frozen yogurt, complete with chocolate and blueberry sprinkles. We found a couple chairs on the sidewalk and sat down. We savored every bite of our treat while letting the afternoon sun soak into our skin. ♠

Words From Chairman Mao

The name Mao Tse-Tung conjures comparisons with Stalin, Hitler, Pol Pot. But, who was this man? I will admit that until recently I had never delved into learning who he was.
 
My reading repertoire is not filled with your run-of-the-mill books. I prefer Dostoyevsky to Danielle Steele and Sogyal Rinpoche to A.J. Finn. So, I guess it was no surprise when I chose to read Quotations from Chairman Mao Tse-Tung, more commonly known in the west as The Little Red Book.
 
Born in 1893 to a wealthy farmer, Mao developed a Chinese Nationalist and anti-imperialist view early in life. While studying at Peking University he gained a liking to the Marxist-Leninist ideology. He then founded and became leader of the Communist Party of China. In 1849 when The Chinese Red Army defeated the Nationalists in a Civil War, he proclaimed the foundation of the Peoples Republic of China.
 
In 1958, the Chairman initiated what is known as the “Great Leap Forward,” which aimed to transform the country from an agrarian to industrialized nation. The farming became collectivized and most of the workers were moved to construction projects. In spite of favorable weather, most of the harvest was left to rot due to lack of labor. During the period from '58 to '62 it is estimated that between 18 to 55 million people died, mostly from famine. Over two million were either beaten or tortured to death, and 1 to 3 million committed suicide.
 
In an effort to reduce inequality, about 13 million landlords were killed in an effort to redistribute land to peasants and working class. Many were beaten to death at mass meetings. It is estimated that 2 to 5 million counter-revolutionaries were executed, which included former officials of the opposition party, as well as those whose loyalty was suspect. He defended these killings as necessary in order to secure peace.
 
Despite the atrocious losses that came during the Great Leap Forward, Mao Tse-Tung is revered by many and credited for modernizing China. It is through him that China became a world power, promoted the status of woman, improved education and healthcare, and increased life-expectancy.
 
Mao Tse-Tung also fought a war on drugs. In an attempt to eradicate the production of opium he sent 10 million addicts to treatment and executed the dealers, replanting the fields with new crops.
 

Mao Tse-Tung.

Quotations From Chairman Mao Tse-Tung was published in 1964 as a booklet containing various inspirational and military ideas. It was used as propaganda to influence Chinese thought. As over a billion copies have been printed (making it #2 of all time), the goal of the Chinese government was to have it read by 99.9% of all its citizens.
 
The Little Red Book even made its way to the United States during the cultural revolution when the anti-Nixon and anti-Vietnam crowd could be found with a copy in their back pocket.
 
With all that hype, I decided I had better buy my own Little Red Book. There have been several versions of the book in publication and I believe that mine must be a condensed version as there are only five chapters and twenty-six pages.
 
There are certain themes that tend to run through the chairman's quotes. Above all, to have faith in the Communist Party. Most other themes are typical of Communist ideology such as the elimination of classes, anti-capitalism, and pro-science. He speaks of opposing imperialism and suppressing counter-revolutionaries.
 
Interestingly, he is anti-war. But he also believes it is necessary to have war to end war.
 
I also found it interesting that much of the same dogma preached by Mao is also believed and promulgated by politicians and activists of today. Especially in light of the protests, riots and revolutionary spirit among the youth, I see among them similarities with Communist ideology.
 

Chinese propaganda.

What follows is a small sample of quotations from Chairman Mao Tse-Tung:
 
“The force at the core leading our cause forward is the Chinese Communist Party. The theoretical basis guiding our thinking is Marxism-Leninism.”
 
“A revolution is not a dinner party, or writing an essay, or painting a picture, or doing embroidery; it cannot be so refined , so leisurely and gentle, so temperate, kind, courteous, restrained and magnanimous. A revolution is an insurrection, an act of violence by which one class overthrows another.”
 
“We should support whatever the enemy opposes and oppose whatever the enemy supports.”
 
“[Communism] is different than any other ideological and social system, and is the most complete, progressive, revolutionary and rational system in human history. . . The ideological and social system of capitalism has become a museum piece in one part of the world, while in other countries it resembles 'a dying person who is sinking fast, like the sun setting beyond the western hills,' and will soon be relegated to the museum. The Communist ideological and social system alone is full of youth and vitality, sweeping the world with the momentum of an avalanche and the force of a thunderbolt.”
 
“Apart from their other characteristics, the outstanding thing about China's 600 million people is that they are 'poor and blank.' This may seem a bad thing, but in reality it is a good thing. Poverty gives rise to the desire for change, the desire for action and the desire for revolution. On a blank sheet of paper free from any mark, the freshest and most beautiful characters can be written, the freshest and most beautiful pictures painted.”
 
“Class struggle, the struggle for production, and scientific experiment are the three great revolutionary movements for building a mighty socialist country. These movements are a sure guarantee that Communists will be free from bureaucracy and immune against revisionism and dogmatism, and will for ever remain invincible.”
 
“It can therefore be said that politics is war without bloodshed while war is politics with bloodshed.”
 
“All wars that are progressive are just, and all wars that impede progress are unjust.”
 
“The guns of the Russian Communist Party created socialism. We shall create a democratic republic. Experience in the class struggle in the era of imperialism teaches us that it is only by the power of the gun that the working class and the laboring masses can defeat the armed bourgeoisie and landlords, in this sense we may say that only with guns can the whole world be transformed.”
 
“We are advocates of the abolition of war, we do not want war; but war can only be abolished through war, and in order to get rid of the gun it is necessary to take up the gun.”
 
“Our country and all the other socialist countries want peace; so do the peoples of all the countries of the world. The only ones who crave war and do not want peace are certain monopoly capitalist groups in a handful of imperialist countries which depend on aggression for their profits.”
 
“When human society advances to the point where classes and states are eliminated, there will be no more wars, counter-revolutionary or revolutionary, unjust or just; that will be the era of perpetual peace for mankind.” ♠

Cahokia Mounds

Visiting Cahokia was a new experience for me. I grew up in the American Southwest with Anasazi ruins in the canyons, on the mesas and literally in the backyard of my childhood home. Ancient pottery could be found abundantly on the desert floor, and occasionally an arrowhead. They pecked out images on rocks of big horned sheep and divine figures.
 
Cahokia, on the other hand, was on a lush marshland near the Mississippi River. Nothing above the surface now exists to prove their existence, other than several dozen mounds covered in grass. Some are large while others a mere lift in the ground.
 

Human effigy pipe.

Yet a grand civilization once existed here. In it's prime, archeologists surmise that Cahokia was the largest settlement in the Americas north of Mexico, with estimates ranging from 5,000 to 40,000 inhabitants. It became a central hub, which once covered nearly six square miles.
 
Cahokia is located east of modern-day St. Louis, in the state of Illinois. The skyline of the Gateway City can be seen from the top of Monks Mound. Jenelle and I took a detour from our trip and spent a couple hours poking around the site.
 
So, who were the Cahokian people? They were part of the Mississippian Culture, which is a catch-all term to include several societies with similar behavior and beliefs along the Mississippi River. Some of these behaviors included the building of platform mounds around a central plaza. 
 

Monks Mound.

By far the most imposing earthwork at Cahokia is Monks Mound. The base covers an area of over 14 acres and it is 100 feet high. Nearly 22 million cubic feet of dirt make up the mound, and it is conjectured that they were carried in baskets. Construction of the mound began around 950 AD and was enlarged several times until roughly 1250 AD.
 
Excavations of the upper level show evidence of a structure. Archeologists believe this probably served as a temple, and a residence for the chief leader. This interpretation is aided by historical accounts of the Natchez, who are the cultural heirs of the Mississippians.
 

Looking south from Monks mound.

Also of interest is an account of Hernanado de Soto, probably the first European to venture into this area. Sometime between 1539 and 1547, he visited several towns and villages of Native Americans. Although Cahokia was no longer functioning, many of their traditions may have continued. De Soto's men spoke of Indian villages dominated by man-made hills.
 
He records: “Then on top of these places they construct flat surfaces which are capable of holding ten, twelve, fifteen or twenty dwellings of the lord and his family and the people of his service, who vary according to the power and grandeur of the state.”
 

Profile view of Monks Mound.

Monks Mound was not—as far as we know—a burial mound.  Only small portions have been excavated. That's not to say, however, that it hasn't been used from time to time to bury the dead.
 
In the 1730's a group of French missionaries built a chapel on the west end of the mound. Several of them were buried near the chapel. A century later Amos Hill built his farm on the third terrace of the mound. He is buried on the northwest corner of the fourth terrace.
 
It is called Monks Mound because a group of French Trappist Monks lived on a nearby mound from 1809 to 1813 and used “Monks Mound” to plant gardens and grow fruit trees.
 

Mound 72.

Certainly not the most eye-catching earthwork at Cahokia, but probably the most fascinating is Mound 72. To the untrained eye, Mound 72 appears to be nothing more than a small rise in the ground. Yet excavations have proved it to be a mass burial site. Located less than a mile south of Monks Mound, it was created in stages and contains several “sub” mounds which were eventually covered over to create a single heap.
 
Roughly 272 people have been interred at Mound 72, many of the bodies mutilated. One pit within the mound contains the remains of 24 women. Another portion includes the bodies of four young men laid out, arms interlocking, with the hands and skulls cut off. Another pit near the four men holds the skeletons of 53 women between the ages of 15 and 30, most showing evidence of strangulation. They are stacked in two layers, separated by matting.
 

One of the "Twin Mounds."

Yet another pit within Mound 72 contains the corpses of 39 men and women, all of whom succumbed to a violent death. Fractured skulls and jawsbones, decapitations and arrowheads in the back all point toward a malicious end. Some, it is speculated, were buried alive, as their hands and bodies are postured in such a manner that appears they are trying to crawl out of the pit. Atop this pit are 15 elites, laid on litters of cedar poles and cane matting.
 
Also buried in Mound 72 is another elite personage now known as the Birdman. He was laid on an elevated platform with his feet facing northwest, resting on a bed of over 20,000 marine-shell disc beads in the shape of a falcon. Below him was another man buried face-down. The Birdman was buried with an extensive collection of minerals, arrowheads, a copper-covered chunkey stick, and several chunkey stones. Chunkey was a game played by the Cahokian people. These grave-goods had been collected from a variety of places across the eastern United States.
 

Tablet of a Birdman, found during excavations at Monks Mound.

From what I understand, about two-thirds of Mound 72 has been excavated and that is how we know so much. The bodies were found under ground-level. The dirt above ground-level served as a monument. Although all the excavated dirt was replaced to resemble the original mound, all the bodies have been removed and are at a museum or University somewhere in Illinois. (All this was according to a professor there giving college students a tour. I find it interesting that if you were to do the same thing as a private citizen, you would be facing jail time and labeled as a grave-robber.)
 
Our visit to Cahokia lasted a couple hours, but I could have spent much longer had we not needed to catch an afternoon flight. There are several more mounds on the site, as well as walking trails. The museum is very helpful, recreating many scenes of what Cahokia may have looked like during its prime. Many artifacts are on display, including pottery and several effigies.
 

Artist's recreation of Cahokia, with "Woodhenge" in the foreground.

Cahokia began to decline around 1250 to 1300 AD. There is a great deal of speculation and mystery surrounding their disappearance. Did they over-exploit their resources? Was there conflict from within, or without? Could disease have decimated the population? Whatever the reason, within a couple hundred years, Cahokia was a ghost town.
 
For me, this comes full circle. The Anasazi disappeared around the exact same time. There is also a great deal of mystery associated with their disappearance. Most likely, they left because of drought. By the time the first Europeans arrived in the southwest, their dwellings upon the cliffs were also nothing more than ghost towns. ♠

St. Louis, Missouri as seen from the top of Monks Mound.