Showing posts with label toilets. Show all posts
Showing posts with label toilets. Show all posts

Saturday, September 24, 2022

San Pedro Market






One of the craziest, most chaotic markets I have ever seen is the San Pedro Market in the high elevations of Cusco, Peru. 

The market sprawled into all the streets surrounding the actual building of San Pedro. There was barely enough room to walk around. Vendors with fruits, potatoes, herbs, and everything else were overflowing onto the sidewalk while traffic on a single-lane road tried to push through. Horns honked. Exhaust blew. Pedestrians pushed through. A young boy urinated wherever he found room on the cobble-stoned street. 




I wished I could have taken pictures with my eyes, but I had to do the second-best thing⸺with my camera, trying to be as stealthy as possible. It was the people and their goods I wanted to capture, especially the Inca ladies in traditional dress, or with their babies wrapped on their backs. 

I looked at the food and filth and concluded that it was no wonder so many foreign tourists caught a bug while traveling to Peru. This food would be purchased and brought to the eating establishments where they would be prepared on a plate. 

Still, I was fascinated. 

Then we passed the meat section. Piles of heart, liver, hooves, jugular veins. It smelled the same as when I gut a deer. Blood and rotting stomach. It was here we saw chicken legs, skinned guinea pigs⸺and live bugs. 




At one point we decided to take a break on the steps of San Pedro Church, a 320-year-old house of worship watching over the market. Jenna and I plotted our next move when a foul and drunken man with dark hair and pudgy hands made his way toward us. He nearly fell over the guy next to us, then turned our direction and mumbled something in Spanish. I grabbed Jenna's arm, ready to protect her, but when he began to sway toward us, we quickly stood up and walked away. He spewed a few curse words, but we only smiled. As we gained distance we turned around and noticed he was getting lectured by a policeman. 

From one adventure to the next, we continued through the market, now passing through food being cooked. Ladies stood in front of large kettles with a fire lit below and steam rising above. Patrons sat on little plastic stools around the kettle and ate bowls of appetizing food. A common dish appeared to be rice with a drumstick and fried egg on top; or caldo de gallina, a brothy soup with noodles and chunk of chicken.

Some ladies grilled meat and others made juice. Ice cream was also popular. At the far end were booths of flowers. 




Bathrooms were of interest to me in Peru, and those at San Pedro Market were no exception. I paid the man at the booth 50 soles to enter, and he in return gave me a piece of toilet paper. The room I entered was large and had no door to separate it from the outside. Men and women alike entered inside. The room reeked of urine and feces. Although lines of enclosed stalls filled most of the room, there was also a line of urinals for the men, which was not covered at all. In my stall there was no seat on the toilet.⸺Completely squalid conditions for a food market! 

We ended our tour by walking through the artisan section. Here they have any souvenir a tourist might want: beenies, scarfs, coin purses, alpaca sweaters, Inca figurines and much more. There were no prices listed, so with everything we had to ask, then haggle. 

Eventually the market fizzled out and the normal chaos of Cusco streets filtered in. The market of San Pedro was definitely an experience we won't forget! ♠

 


 

Saturday, August 13, 2022

A Day at the Races . . . Finally!


The room, built into the stable, wasn't much. It contained a mattress, an old electric heater and papers scattered across the cement floor. 

Like a giant domino falling backwards, my tired body plunged to rest on the cold mattress. I closed my eyes, but couldn't get Arden Black out of my mind. His face was old, beat up with more than its share of wrinkles and cracks. His hair was gray and voice chewed up. His clothes smelled of smoke.

“Hmmm, “I thought, “what is in this room that could possibly pass the time?” I turned on the electric heater and pulled it towards me. The filament wires glowed with orange and brought a comfortable wave of heat. I looked at the scattered papers across the cement floor. I picked up one that looked like a newspaper. “The Daily Racing Form,” was printed in large black ink across the front. I opened it. The inside pages were full of racing statistics which looked as boggling as the investment page of the Wall Street Journal.

My eyes glanced through the pages while my mind absorbed none of it. Fifteen minutes passed until I saw Arden's aged face again. “Kid, I've got a job for you.” He pulled a cigarette from his shirt pocket. “Have you ever cleaned stalls?” 

“Never,” I responded. 

“Well, I'll teach you. I'll make it simple. First of all use that pitch fork over there and scoop the manure off the ground and toss it into the wheelbarrow. Then grab the . . .” he paused in his sentence to light his cigarette. He held it in his lips and lit the end with a lighter while using his hand to cup the flame. He took a puff and then continued his talk. “Rake the hay into a pile in the corner, then use it to level out the dirt. When you're all done, make sure each stall has three cans of oats and plenty of water. I'll feed them fresh hay later. Got it kid?” 

I nodded. 

He took another puff and walked away. 


Stable area at Santa Anita Park in Arcadia, California.

I found the empty stalls and began cleaning. The labor wasn't too hard although my muscles weren't used to working so early in the morning. 

The stalls smelled exactly like horse stalls should. Like dirt and manure. I shoveled the horse chips over and over. It seemed endless. They were all over the place. Just when I thought I had them all I would find more beneath some hay. Despite the mess, I worked until every stall was nearly fit for a human to sleep in. Because I had no idea how clean Arden wanted it, I went the extra mile to ensure his satisfaction. 



While I was busy shoveling manure, my best friend Tony was out on the track running the horses. I didn't see him much that morning, but he was the reason I was there. 

Tony left home at age 15 ½ to become a jockey. He weighed well under a 100 pounds and was tough as nails. For the last six months he had been an apprentice and now his time had come for his first official race. 

Tony's dad invited me to come. On a Saturday morning he picked me up and we made the two-and-a-half hour drive to Farmington, New Mexico where he would be racing at San Juan Downs. We found Tony at his apartment where he was excessively nervous. This would be his first real race. We drove to the track in Tony's mustang with another jockey. 

I was memorized from the beginning. 

"And they're off!"


Tony was in the first race and I watched intently as the bugler made his call and the jockeys mounted on their horses rode onto the track, trotting around to the back side to warm up. Then the announcer said: “They're getting into the gates, they're in the gates . . . they're off!!!” 

Tony took dead last in that race. For three more races he did slightly better, but overall it was a dismal day. 

I was invited to stay another day. I stayed at Tony's apartment and we woke at six the next morning and with no breakfast drove to the track. This is when Arden, the trainer, put me to work in the stable.

Later that day was another round of racing. Tony did much better this time, taking a second and third place. He would have taken first on another race but he accidentally bumped a horse and got disqualified. 

"And down the stretch they come!"

Tony went on to do great things in the world of horse racing. After Farmington he raced in California at great parks such as Santa Anita, Del Mar and Hollywood. Then he went to New York and competed at the infamous Belmont Park. Later he proved his skills at Wyoming Downs in Evanston and Ruidoso Downs in New Mexico. 

Although I had only been to the races a handful of times, the whole environment of the the horse races became magical to me. Over thirty years had passed since I had been to a race. I longed to hear the bugler play his trumpet and call the players to the track. I dreamed of hearing the announcer in the heat of the race yell out, “And down the stretch they come!” I wanted desperately to bring my wife and kids to the track and show them what all the hype was about. 

Well, I finally got my chance. 


This spring all the stars aligned and we secured a day when we could go to the races at Santa Anita Park in Arcadia, California. To prep my family we watched Seabiscuit, which was partially filmed here. 

Seabiscuit was a thoroughbred race horse who became a legend when he beat the Triple Crown winner, War Admiral, in 1938 in a one-on-one race. His career began on shaky ground as he raced on the East Coast, but when jockey Red Pollard took over he gradually began to win. He was then brought to California where his fortune continued. He won many races at Santa Anita, including the Santa Anita Handicap in 1940. 

During the 1938 season Red Pollard fell during a race that injured him so severely he couldn't continue. The reins were handed to George Woolf, a Canadian jockey, who rode Seabiscuit in the legendary race with War Admiral. Ironically, less than a decade later George Woolf would also fall off a horse, this time during a race at Santa Anita. Unfortunately, he would die from his injuries a day later. 

Santa Anita Park.

We arrived at the parking lot of Santa Anita Park an hour before the first post time. I was super excited to show my kids what a day at the races was really like. 

The outside grounds were filled with manicured trees, beds of bright yellow flowers and a handful of life-size statues of both horse and human. I was pleasantly surprised to find a sculpture of George Woolf. 

Sitting in the grandstand.

Our $10 tickets allowed us sit wherever we pleased in the long grandstand. We chose seats as close to the finish line as possible, with a great view of the final stretch. 

The track had an old feel to it, perhaps from the 1960's. The seats were old, as well as the wagering windows. When I used the men's restroom I felt as if I had entered another era. Above a floor with bluish-green tiles sat a long line of toilet stalls. In another nook was a row of urinals—trough style. I had to get a picture. 

Grand view of the racetrack and San Gabriel Mountains.

Men's restroom at Santa Anita . . . a walk back in time.

The view from the grandstand was epic. Not only was the racetrack lovely with its evenly raked dirt, fully manicured turf and tall, skinny palm trees, but the San Gabriel Mountains in the background drew the eye. 

Before we knew it we were standing for the National Anthem and then the bugler sounded the horn. The horses with mounted jockeys entered the track and paraded themselves to the crowd before trotting toward the starting gate. There would be eight races today. 

For the first race we sat as a family in the grandstand and enjoyed the moment. The race was six furlongs and started at the far corner of the track. When the horses left the gate there was an excitement that filled the stands. People clapped and cheered. My wife and girls felt that excitement and without realizing were on the edge of their seats. The horses came down the final stretch, sprinting so fast that their galloping strides could be heard from the stands. I knew my family was hooked and would enjoy the rest of the day. 


I was surprised at how little I sat still. None of us could stay put. Our seats in the grandstand sat empty for most of the races. Why? We kept moving around. We watched from different locations, including up close near the track. 

My favorite place to go was down at the paddock between races. This is where the horses and jockeys come out to parade themselves before entering the arena. It was a chance to see the two up close. It was a place to see how sculpted and stout the horses were and how short, but strong the jockeys were. 

The Jockeys' Room.

Walking from the Jockeys' Room to the paddock.

3-time Kentucky Derby winner and Hall of Famer, John Velazquez.

The paddock is a great place to see horse and jockey close up. Tyler Baze atop Divine Feminine.

It was here, in the center of the paddock, that I noticed a life-sized statue of Seabiscuit. In front of the statue was a popular place for pictures, especially among family members of those who owned horses, or had an interest in the race that day. 

It was near here that I talked with one of the workers on the grounds. He wore gray scraggly hair with sunglasses that had a nose-cover. He told us that he often waked the grounds at night and that this place was definitely haunted. He said there were ghosts of both men and horses that wandered the grounds. Then he pointed to the statue of George Woolf and said there are times when the head will turn and look at him. 

The Seabiscuit statue is a popular place for photos.

Seabiscuit.

Does the ghost of George Woolf haunt Santa Anita?

Among the many questions from my kids had to do with the betting aspect of the sport. I had to explain win, place, show, exacta, trifecta and whatever other terms I could remember. I also explained how odds work. 

A couple of my daughters were already making verbal bets on which horse they thought would win, stating that they were betting on #3, or the green horse, for example. But Kaitlyn, who is twenty one, wanted to try the real thing. 

So twenty minutes before race #7, she and I went to the wagering window. (We decided that we would just use my cash and I would do the talking—but she would choose the horse!) I had never done this before either, so it was a learning experience for both of us. 

The sweet lady at the window made it easy. When I stated, “I would like to bet $5 to win on #7,” she responded: “That's all you're going to bet?”—I knew she was teasing and we both had a laugh. 

When the race began, Kaitlyn had a fun time cheering on her horse. But in the end, Funkenstein came in fifth place and we were out five bucks. 

We're almost on T.V.!

For the final race of the day I decided to just sit back and take no more pictures. I would just enjoy the race. It was another 6-furlong contest, but this time on turf. 

This final race was a maiden special. The gates opened and eight mares and fillies, all four-years old and upward sprinted around the track. While they were on the backstretch I appreciated the view of the distant animals with the majestic mountain behind them. As they came around the final bend and into full view I admired the strength of their bodies and the sheer speed at which they moved. I don't even know who won, but they all had won my respect. 

We left that day fully satisfied. I had spent many years dreaming of this day and it did not disappoint. I have a feeling that we will return again. If not here, then at some other track. ♠

On the back-stretch.

 

Racing the turf course.

 

Thursday, April 28, 2016

Toilets in Thailand

I will admit that one of my biggest fears before traveling to Thailand was the taking care of business in the bathroom. I knew that Asia was famous for its squat toilets, and it was recommended to bring our own toilet paper. That would take a little adjustment, but wasn't an issue.

The bigger issue: Thai's warn tourists not to put their toilet paper in the toilet, but rather, in the trash can! Apparently the sewer system of Thailand can't handle the extra bulk of sanitation paper, and a simple act of flushing your used tissue down the tank might result in a clogged pipe. And I didn't want that! But, tossing the tissue in the trash could become a stinky proposition. I think you understand my dilemma.

Anytime we travel to another country, they may do things differently. That's part of the experience and a component of what I love about traveling.

We only stayed in Thailand for two weeks. Many of the toilets I encountered were in hotels, which of course are catered to tourists. But I tried to “explore” as many others as I could, even if that meant just walking inside to check it out. For what it's worth, here are a few pictures that illustrate my experience with toilets in Thailand.




This is a typical toilet that you will find in hotels and most pubic restrooms. The hose on the left has a jet spray that will get you cleaner than any bathroom tissue (in my opinion). The toilet paper can be used to dab yourself dry. This way, very little is used, and it is clean when you throw it in the trash can. (Notice the sign on the wall.)


Thailand

This is the other type of toilet you may encounter: a squat toilet. Although the government is trying to fade away the squatter because of Thailand's aging population, they are still quite prominent, especially the further away from the city you go. This one had a jet spray, and everything was very wet with water when I walked in.




The best place to find a toilet outside your hotel room is to take advantage of public places and tourist sites such as train stations, malls, and popular temples and shrines. Always carry spare change, usually from three to ten baht, as many of these places charge for use.




You may encounter a squat toilet like this one, with no jet spray, and no apparent way to flush it. I am not an expert on this, but I believe you use a ladle of water and your left hand to clean your underparts. Sounds fun, right?! Then you dump a bucket of water into the hole to flush the waste.




If for some reason you forget the process, you might find a reminder on the bathroom mirror. 



The next three pictures all come from a small eating establishment/house on the back-roads of Krabi Provence. It is a comfortable sit-down toilet with jet spray for cleaning and bucket for flushing.



I thought the PVC plumbing was interesting. Just twist open the valve to flush the urinal.




Backed up to get the broader view, we can see the PVC pipes are hooked up to the sink also. This bathroom has a bar of soap in a holder at the upper left side of the sink. This doesn't happen too often. Always bring a small bottle of hand sanitizer everywhere you go!

Krabi, Thailand


This bathroom is exactly half way up the 1,237 stairs leading to the Buddhist shrine of Wat Tham Suea. It is always important to be thinking ahead when it comes to using the loo, and to take advantage whenever you can. Most public bathrooms (but not all) have some of their signs in English. I never had a problem figuring out which was the mens and which the womens.




Sometimes you may be surprised and find a toilet where you least expect it, like this squat toilet just off the alley of a back-street. It is very rudimentary: no jet spray, no toilet paper, no flusher. It has a hose, which you could use your thumb to create a jet spray.




Lastly, this is a squat toilet at the airport in Beijing on our way home. I include it to point out that Thailand seems to be “ahead” of China in this regard, as I saw no squat toilets at the three airports I visited in Thailand. This had a jet spray and paper, but no trash can to put the paper into. So what did I do? I put my small piece in the toilet and tried flushing it. The flushing suction was so weak that it took five times to get it down! Looking back on it, I was probably supposed to carry it out of the stall and throw it in the trash can.





On a lighter note, the farangs aren't the only people who have a hard time figuring out another culture's toilet system. I recently read an article that told of a problem in Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks, where the seats in their pit toilets were mysteriously breaking at the hinges. After some sleuth work, it was discovered that Asians were standing on the seats and using them as squat toilets! Ha, ha, ha! It's probably just as funny to us as it is for them when we try flushing paper down their toilets and clog it up. ♠