Hearty Food of Poland

I was really surprised at how much I loved the Polish cuisine during our visit to the country. It's hard to put a finger on it, but I think it had to do with the simplicity, and of how relatable it is was with the dishes we have in North America. There is nothing exotic like what you might find in Asia, nor does it use hard-to-find foreign ingredients like an odd variety of potato from the Andes.

I feel like Poland takes ingredients that could be easily grown in the United States such as beets, cabbage, barley and potatoes, and uses them in a way that we would never consider. They are simple, cheap and nutritious ingredients.

Here's a list of foods and meals I ate while in Poland, along with a little commentary on each one.

Buckwheat groats.

Kasza gryczana z masłem (steamed buckwheat groats with butter). This was one of the most basic, but satisfying foods I ate. This savory dish only had three ingredients: buckwheat, butter and salt. Even before I stirred in the butter it had a buttery taste. Full of nutrition, inexpensive, flavorful, and basic. Just how I like it!

White borscht.

Żurek z kiełbasą i ziemniakami (white borscht with sausage and potatoes). Known in English as “white borscht,” this soup isn't at all like borscht made with beets. Instead it is a sour soup, made of either a fermented soup base, or in modern times to speed up the process, sour cream. The soup I had came with potatoes and sausage, which resembled the kielbasa found at stores in the States. I couldn't tell you what else was in it. The soup was good, but probably wouldn't get the vote for my favorite Polish dish. 

Cold beet (drinkable) soup.

Chłodnik (cold beet soup). Chłodnik is the Polish version of gazpacho. It is super easy to make at home with ingredients such as beets, radishes, pickles, garlic, dill, chives and kefir. As you can see, it is also extremely nutritious. When I was in Poland I only had this once, and it was blended up in a drink that came from a bottle at the store. If you love beets like I do, chłodnik will be pure heaven. If not, this dish may not be for you.

Beef roll in hunter's sauce, barley, and beet salad (in background).

Zraz w sosie myśliwskim (beef roll in hunter's sauce). When I ate this I felt as if I was eating meatloaf. Instead, it is a flattened patty mixed with spices and grated onion, and fried in oil. The hunter's sauce, from what I gather, commonly comes in a bag. After sauteeing carrots, bell pepper and mushrooms, pour on the hunter's sauce and let it simmer, then bring in the beef rolls and let it all simmer together. This dish is often served with groats and beetroot salad.

Jęczmienna (barley groats). This was served with the beef roll and hunter's sauce. It was very delicious and nutritious. I don't know why we haven't thought about serving barley as a side-dish in the United States.

Surówka z buraków (beetroot salad). When we think of salad in the United States, we usually think of lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and maybe cheese or croutons. But this dish of beetroot salad completely changed the way I think. It is extremely simple. Cooked beets, grated. Perhaps an apple, also grated, or an onion finely diced. Mix it all together with oil and salt. Of course, there are variations. This colorful salad is very nutritious and from what I could discern, it is very common in Poland.

Bagel vendor in Krakow.

Krakow-style bagels, which are slightly different than normal bagels. 

Obwarzanek krakowski (Kraków-style bagels). Okay, so this is technically not a bagel, but somewhat of a cross between a bagel and a pretzel. I will admit that as I ate this on a park bench in Kraków, I thought I was eating a bagel. Like the bagel, it originated in Kraków, and like the bagel, it is boiled before it is baked. We bought ours from a street cart. The obwarzanek had a chewy texture on the outside and was fluffy in the middle. It appeared topped with cheese before it was baked. Jenelle and I both enjoyed our filling snack, but agreed it wasn't as spectacular as we hoped it would be. We also agreed that if it were sold in the States, it would come with dipping sauce.

Clear beet soup.

Barszcz czerwony (clear beet soup). Just to be clear, I believe barszcz czerwony translates to any kind of beet soup or borscht. The kind of borscht I had while in Poland was the clear variety, meaning in had no chunks and was served in a cup like broth. I'm certainly not an expert, but I believe this borscht is cooked with soup bones and other vegetables, which are ultimately strained to give a clean texture. From what I understand, it is commonly served on Christmas Eve. The one time I drank it, it certainly had the red color, but not the strong beet taste that one would expect.

Potato pancake.

Placki ziemniaczane (potato pancake). This is a simple recipe consisting of grated potatoes, grated onions, an egg, possibly flour, salt and pepper. It is then fried (but not deep-fried) in oil and topped with sour cream. We ate this while sitting on a bench in Zakopane. It was very delicious, but also extremely greasy. I've made it once since returning home and it was equally tasty, but best eaten fresh. From what little I can glean, there is a debate in Poland as to whether it should be made with grated or mashed potatoes.

Zapienkanka, or open-faced sandwich. 

Zapienkanka (open-faced sandwiches). This has been a popular street food in Poland for many decades, but as for us, we only saw it in one place, and that was in the Old Jewish Quarter of Kraków. It is served on a sliced-halfwise baguette, topped with about any combination you can think of, but most typically with sautéed mushrooms and onions, smoked cheese and ketchup. The one I ate was very flavorful. It had smoked ham, cheese, cranberry sauce and crispy onions.

Pierogi.

Pierogi (dumplings). My first meal in Poland included pierogi ruskie, which were dumplings filled with a mashed potato-like substance, and topped with fried ham or bacon. It tasted good. I believed it would be one of many times I would eat it on our trip, but it turned out to be the only time. Pierogi is quite popular in Poland and arguably the most popular food there. Fillings vary and can include ground meat, cheese, mushrooms, cabbage and even an assortment of fruit.

Breaded chicken rolls with a creamy middle of herbs and melted sheep cheese. 

Oscypek (smoked cheese made of salted sheep milk). This tasty cheese is made in the Tatra Mountain region of Poland. There is a similar variety of it across the border into Slovakia. After it has been turned into cottage cheese and repeatedly rinsed in boiling water, it is pressed into a decorative spindle shape. It is then placed in brine for a couple days, followed by two weeks of being cured over hot smoke. Oscypek, along with other regional cheeses, are sold throughout Poland. We saw many being sold on the streets of Zakopane.

Panierowane roladki drobiowe (breaded chicken rolls). On the outside, these looked like croquettes, but in reality they were ovals of chicken. The inside of each had a small hollow space filled with oscypek cheese and herbs that oozed out when cut in half. It provided a very tasty meal.

Kwasnica, or sauerkraut soup.

Kwaśnica (sauerkraut soup). This is another dish that comes from the Tatra Mountains. It is traditionally made with mutton or pork. I ordered this at a Milk Bar in Zakopane. The broth had a smoky, but sour flavor to it. It is a simple dish using only a handful of ingredients: pork ribs, smoked bacon, sauerkraut, potatoes, onions and spices.

Lard spread on onion bread, served with pickled mushrooms and cucumbers.

Smalec (lard spread). I was pleasantly surprised by this concoction. With my meal I ordered lard spread, which they generously applied to my onion bread. They say that lard is the poor man's butter. This lard was flavored with bacon, garlic, onion and spices. It was served with pickled mushrooms and cucumbers, which complimented it well.

Hunter's stew.

Bigos (Hunter's Stew). This is a hearty stew that I learned to make several years before our trip to Poland. It contains pork (formerly venison), smoked bacon, sauerkraut, cabbage, mushrooms, and sausage. I was very much looking forward to eating it in Kraków, which I did in a small shop on Grodzka Street. I was not disappointed, but the stew tasted different from that which I made at home. It looked the same, but there was something divergent in the flavor, and I couldn't quite place my finger on it. It was likely using different sausage or meat, varieties found only in the mother country.

Kielbasa.

Kiełbasa (Polish sausage). I ate kiełbasa three times while I was in Poland. Twice it was thick, smoky and hearty, much different (and better) than what I see sold in the United States. This kind was served with a dollop of mustard or mayo, and with a roll, or “bun.” My favorite experience with this was the Blue Kiełbasa Van in Kraków. There was also another variety of kiełbasa that was softer and nearly identical in flavor and texture as the kind sold in the United States. This was the kind served in my bowl of white borscht soup (mentioned above).

Polish doughnuts.

Pączki (doughnuts). I am no expert on Polish doughnuts, but I wish I were! They are similar to jelly-filled doughnuts in the United States, but are slightly different. I couldn't tell you how. I only had the privilege of eating two during our brief stay. According to the internet, they are often filled with plum jam, petal jam, strawberry jam, blueberry jam or Bavarian cream, among many other flavors. The surface can be sprinkled with granulated sugar. I can say with confidence that my mouth is watering as I write this. ♠

Morskie Oko

I've been looking forward to this excursion for years now, and today was finally the day it would happen. Would it go as planned, or would weather or something else put a damper on our day?

We took a shuttle from Zakopane to Palenica Białczańska, the starting point for our jaunt into the High Tatra Mountains of Poland. Our destination, Morskie Oko, was five miles away, and there were only two ways to get there: on foot, or by horse-drawn wagon. We chose the latter.

Of course, we had to pay a steep fee for that option⸺200 złoty⸺but Jenelle's back still hurt from her surgery and we didn't want her worn out by having to walk up the mountain.

The path to the lake is paved and the vast majority of people walk it. And there are thousands of them! Young, old, partially crippled, mothers with strollers. It's like a long line of ants on a 5.6 mile path.

We, on the other hand, waited for over an hour for our turn to ride the horses. We weren't going to ride the horses directly, but were to sit in a covered wagon pulled by two horses. The problem was that only so many people could ride in a wagon at once.

When a team of horses completed the circuit, we would have to wait for them to take a break, drink, eat, and get pampered by their owners. This was quite a tiresome job for them, and they couldn't continue the loop without a rest. Although there were many teams on duty for work, it was a slow process to rotate through them.

Riding in a horse-drawn wagon to Morskie Oko.

Our driver of the wagon dressed in traditional Polish attire, with a brown leather hat and gray sweater. As we moved up the road, the horses' hooves clacked on the pavement. Their tails swooped back and forth, and the fresh scent of manure mixed with cold mountain air.

We passed two brown does feeding off the road, then small rivulets of water coming down the green slopes. As we got higher we passed a much larger waterfall.

Waterfall along the way.

I felt sorry for the horses. Their job was to pull a wagon full of people up a tediously inclining road, and sometimes at a trot. When we passed other teams coming down, I saw sweat on their flanks.

As we got higher on our route, views of the craggy peaks of the Tatras became more splendid. Streaks of snow in the gulleys of the upper slopes still lingered from winter.

At last, after a 3.8 mile ride, our adventure on the horses came to an end and it was now up to us to walk the remaining mile or so up to the lake. In true European fashion, an ice cream shack and restaurant stood beside the road to serve us. Not now. Maybe on the way back.

Morskie Oko.

When we arrived at the lake, the view was just as spectacular as I had anticipated: a beautiful deep-blue pool of water surrounded by majestic mountains. Hundreds of people loitered about the edges of the lake admiring the view and taking selfies. Near the shore was a large wooden “hut” where hungry hikers could buy a sandwich and beer.

After a few quick pictures we moved around to the eastern edge of the lake. A trail made with relatively flat mountain rocks made a circuit completely around the lake. We enjoyed the view as we hiked. A handful of waterfalls tumbled into the lake from random points, most likely from melting snow and springs.

Swiss pines grow along east side of Morskie Oko.

Morskie Oko, the name of this beautiful lake, comes from Polish meaning “eye of the sea.” It has been recognized as one of the most beautiful lakes in the world.

It's about half a mile to the back side of the lake, and it is from here that another trail climbs nearly 600 feet to another lake. This one is named Czarny Staw pod Rysami, or "Black Lake Below Mount Rysy" when translated into English. By this time, Jenelle was doing better than expected, so we decided to make it a go to the upper lake.

Sign on south side of Morskie Oko.

Looking down at Morskie Oko from the trail going up to Czarny Staw.

Cascading stream coming down from Czarny Staw.

The trail was steep and tedious, but was made bearable by elevated views of Morskie Oko, as well as a cascading stream that tumbled down alongside the trail. I was proud of Jenelle. She was doing much better than either of us expected.

Half an hour later we arrived at the second lake, and what a wonderful view it was! Not only did we have the grand view of Morskie Oko, but now the full view of Czarny Staw. Unlike the lower lake, this one was more transparent and had a turquoise ring around it when the sun was out. The center, however, was a dark blue, probably the reason for the lake's name.  At 249 feet, it is the fourth deepest lake in Poland. Mount Rysy, the highest peak in Poland, reigns supreme above it.

Czarny Staw pod Rysami, or "Black Lake Below Mount Rysy" in English.

Mount Rysy, above Czarny Staw, is the highest peak in Poland.

Hikers enjoy the shore of Czarny Staw.

The craggy ridgeline on either side of Rysy serves as the boundary between Poland and Slovakia. If circumstances were different, meaning I were here alone and it was later in the summer, I would have hiked Rysy. Apparently hundreds do it every day during the latter part of the summer. It is a steep ascent, but there are cables to assist the climber.

We spent nearly forty five minutes at Czarny Staw. It was enjoyable to watch the groups of hikers as they lounged around and rested. I was very pleasantly surprised that it hadn't rained. Juicy storm clouds threatened, but with no success. I was worried that by this time we would have been deploying umbrellas and fighting slippery rocks.

Natural platform between Morskie Oko and Czarny Staw.

The way down was much easier than the trip up. We decided to complete the circuit and take the west side of Morskie Oko. We didn't take nearly as many pictures, so it went a lot faster.

Hiking on the west side gave us new views of the lake and mountains. We enjoyed walking across the base of one of the waterfalls. There I refilled my water bottle.

Looking across the lake at "the hut."

Waterfall tumbling into Morskie Oko.

Looking back across Morskie Oko toward Czarny Staw (not seen) and Mount Rysy.

Looking northeast across Morskie Oko.

When we completed our hike around the lake and again returned to the hut, we had accumulated 3.7 miles. Jenelle was still doing great. Adrenaline must have been kicking in.

Our plan was to hike down instead of taking the horse and wagon. I was excited for this. It was an opportunity to see the mountainside at a slower pace.

We stopped at the lower hut and ordered an ice cream and pannini. It really hit the spot! We sat at a table and watched the hikers on the road.

Eating a snack at a hut about a mile down from the lake. 

Then we continued. We took note of the thick, fairy-like forest with moss growing on the logs. Jenelle noticed the thousands upon thousands of scrape marks in the pavement where horses' hooves clanked across the top.

From time to time we would hear the clapping on the pavement behind us, then would turn around and watch a team and wagon come along full of people. One wagon was singing a song as they passed.

Beautiful forest in the High Tatra Mountains. 

I was most impressed with the sheer amount of people walking the trail, especially families with young kids. One set of parents hauled up little scooters, then once at the top, let their two little girls⸺no older than four years old⸺ride them down. Several parents pushed strollers. It was a level of commitment that I have rarely seen in the States.

Five point four miles later we had made it to the bottom! Our total for the day was 9.1 miles. Luckily for us there was a line of shuttles waiting at the bottom to take us back to Zakopane. ♠