Impressions of Cusco

Convent of Santo Domingo, built on the remains of the Inca temple of Coricancha.

The scene flying into Cusco was surreal. Mountains climbed closer to the airplane window with an occasional snow-packed peak and then a rugged valley with rushing water. But what impressed me most were the man-made terraces and villages perched high upon the slopes. People actually lived here! Farms were laid out in curious patchwork, each a different shade of green. Roads were sliced out along verdant inclines while little communities nestled in the crevice of giant slopes. 

As the plane began to descend, I got goosebumps knowing I was about to disembark at a destination I had longed to visit. Cusco, Peru is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the Americas and former capital of the Inca Empire. I knew that its architecture and culture were a blend between European and Inca, the latter still inhabiting the city. And to top it off, it has an elevation of 11,200 feet, much higher than the vast majority of cities around the world. 

We landed at the airport in the center of town. Tall hills stood all around with tiny houses stacked together along the slopes. 

View of the Plaza de Armas in Cusco.

Typical narrow street on a hill.

Ladies in traditional dress with baby alpacas pose for pictures.

They say that elevation sickness is a common ailment for newcomers arriving in Cusco. Locals recommend chewing on the coca leaf, the same plant that cocaine is made from, to alleviate the sickness. The leaf can be found in many stores. Luckily for us, elevation sickness was not an issue probably due to the fact that we already lived at a relatively high elevation. 

The first thing that struck me about Cusco were the steep and narrow cobblestone streets. They reminded me very much of Spain, but much steeper than anything I had experienced. There was a slightly rougher feel to the place. Some streets were dangerous to walk on as there was little to no sidewalk and barely enough room for a car to drive. 

Typical Cusco building with old stones as foundations.

San Cristobal Church stands on a hill overlooking Cusco.

Looking down Avendia de Santiago.

Most of the buildings were two stories, painted in pastel colors and many had a base made from stone. The city was built on top of the existing Inca settlement, and much of the stonework at the base level was the original Inca workmanship. I wondered what the city looked like before the arrival of the Spanish and also what it might look like now if it had never been conquered.

And speaking of Inca ruins, they were everywhere! The largest complex is at Sacsayhuamán, located northwest of town. This site contains gigantic rocks that were fitted together perfectly, making it one of the most amazing megalithic structures in the world. There is some debate as to whether the Inca actually fitted these stones together or if it was a more advanced civilization that preceded them. When the Spanish came they dismantled much of Sacsayhuamán and used the stones to build their own buildings in Cusco. 

Another archeological site called Q'enqo is just a mile to the east. There are still many other sites scattered about, including the foundations of Coricancha, one of the most important temples of the Inca Empire.

Megalithic structure at Sacsayhuaman.

Curious stonework with lintel, appearing to be a door that goes to nowhere.

A portion of sidewalk with old Inca stones exposed beneath modern masonry.

One of the things that surprised me about Cusco and the surrounding region was the traditional clothing of the Inca ladies. I'm sure you've seen the image of a lady in a bright-colored skirt, tall hat, and perhaps a robed satchel across her back. I used to think it was a show to display for tourists. But, no. They wear it all the time, and even when we were well out of the tourist areas, the women still wore the same thing. The men, on the other hand, seemed to be more assimilated into a western style of dress. 

In the city center, tourism was everywhere. In the Plaza de Armas near the cathedral, for example, a person can't go two steps without someone soliciting something: trinkets, paintings, dolls, scarfs, caps etc. In this section the ladies do dress up for show, sometimes holding baby alpacas. If you want to take their picture, it will cost. 

There are travel offices everywhere selling every possible tour package you might want while in Cusco. There are museums, fancy restaurants, souvenir stores and churches. San Pedro market is popular with tourists, but even more so with locals. It is an authentic market. When we came, the main building was closed, so the vendors were spread out onto the streets in every direction. 

Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus, in the main square of Cusco.

Statue of Pachacutec, an important ruler in ancient Peru.

Inca lady sells vegetables on the sidewalk.

Cusco was on the chilly side. Often we began the day wearing coats, then took them off in late-morning, but put them back on if the sun went behind a cloud. And, of course, we had them on in the evening and at night. Our hotel room was cold, with only an electric heater to warm it up. It was cold enough that I slept in pants and a long-sleeved shirt. 

But our hotel came with a view! Located partially up a hill, we could see across much of the valley, over a sea of terracotta-tiled roofs and multiple old churches that jutted above the rest. Without a doubt, Cusco was one of the most picturesque cities I had ever been in. 

View of bell tower of the Convent of Santo Domingo from our hotel.

Sweet lady standing guard to the bathrooms.

Backstreet of Cusco.

People walking the streets were a combination of local natives and tourists from around the world. It was quite a sight. It was not uncommon for a guide and tourist to be communicating in English—a second language to both. 

Dogs were everywhere. Most were friendly and many liked to bark. We only had one get aggressive and latch onto Jenna's shoelace. 

One of my favorite places in all of Cusco was San Blas Market. It wasn't large, but neither was it touristy like its larger cousin, San Pedro. The entire market was located under the roof of a single building. Venders sold bags of potatoes and fruit. In the food section we found several places to eat. Each sold something different and had white wooden benches where people could sit. 

The meals here cost half of what they did elsewhere. My first course was sopa de chuña, a thick potato soup with barley. For our second course, or “segundos,” I had ají de lizas, or papa liza, which is a type of tuber. It was yellow and had an earthy flavor that reminded me of beets. It also came with grilled chicken over rice. Two very hardy meals cost us 14 soles, or $3.74! 

Vegetable stand at San Blas Market.

One of many dogs in the city.

Ladies wait for the bus after shopping.

Pucara bulls, a symbol of protection and happiness, are found on rooftops of many buildings in Cusco.

Indoor clothing market.

Overall, we loved Cusco. There is so much to explore within the city and especially in the region roundabout in the form of day trips. It has a different feel to it than any other city I've been in. Part of it may be the high elevation and brisk air. It is also the Inca culture and the long history within the city. The layout of the town on steep hills with narrow cobblestoned streets adds to its uniqueness. 

But there was another question I couldn't get off my mind. For the vast majority of tourists that come to Peru, a trip to Cusco is a must. For one thing, there is no other way to get to Machu Picchu than through Cusco. My question, however, is how many other cities or small towns in Peru are similar to Cusco, but aren't filled or spoiled by the thousands of tourists? The thought definitely begs another trip to Peru! ♠ 

 

Large mural on Avenida del Sol.

A couple of gringos visit Cusco.