Thai, the Tuk-tuk Driver

We planned on spending the day on-foot, exploring Phnom Penh at our own leisure. After tramping along the wide Norodom Boulevard, we came to our first obstacle. The gigantic roundabout at Independence Monument spanned at least three lanes and vehicles zipped around at a constant pace. Crossing it would be a challenge. We stood at the corner sizing it up and deciding our next move. 

Much to our surprise and unsurprise, a tuk-tuk driver pulled to the side of the road and asked in broken English where we wanted to go. I pointed across the roundabout at Wat Langka, one of the many Buddhist temples in Phnom Penh. He shook his head. “This one,” he said, “only for monks. No for public.” 

And then he gave his pitch. “I take you for three hours, five places.” He pulled out a laminated sheet of paper that had pictures of all the places he had in mind. 

“No, thank you,” I said. “We just want to walk.” With two fingers I made a walking motion just to make sure he understood. This was our first morning in the city and I just wanted to be left alone. We were one of the few foreigners and I knew we had a bulls-eye for anyone trying to make a dollar. 

As if he were anticipating our next step he added, “Royal Palace, no open. Closed for pandemic.” Well, that's a bummer, I thought. What other bad news does this guy have?  “What's your name?” he asked. I gave him our names. Then he put forward his hand, “My name is Thai, like Thailand.” 

In my mind I was conjuring up another excuse as to why we wanted to go it alone, but then it dawned on me. Why am I fighting this? This guy knows far more places than I do and he can drive us there faster than we can walk. Am I just trying to save thirty bucks? 

I took another look at his laminated sheet of paper and this time I took note that there were several places I hadn't ever seen on the tourist websites. It suddenly looked like a grand opportunity. “We'll do it!” I told him.⸺That was the best decision we made the entire trip. 

We climbed into the back of the tuk-tuk and Thai turned around with a big grin. “Very good choice,” he said. “You will be happy!” 

He proceeded to drive us around Phnom Penh, first stopping at the lawns of the Royal Palace. Even though it was closed, he allowed us to get out and take all the pictures we wanted. 

Then he drove across the river to the old Royal Palace where the kings lived 200 years ago. It was now abandoned. Next to the palace was an old cemetery. We got out and explored on our own while Thai stayed at the tuk-tuk and waited. 

I will admit that on that first day we didn't pay close attention to Thai. Although he was super nice, I considered him as some guy who would drive us around for a few hours, and that we would never see again. He looked like your typical Khmer with a slender build, dark hair and brown eyes. He wore a light brown plaid shirt, blue jeans and crocs. The most noticeable thing he always wore, however, was a big smile. 

After three hours of visiting Buddhist temples, feeding monkeys and giving piggy-back rides to Cambodian children, we were well-satisfied with our time. Every place but one was a place we had never considered. Thai had won our favor. 

During the drive back to our hotel, Jordan and I devised a game plan. Tomorrow we had two places, both out of town, that we wanted to visit. It would be ideal to already have a driver lined up to take us. As we disembarked at the hotel, Thai readily agreed to drive us again. 

He promptly picked us up at 9 o'clock. In fact, he was in front of our hotel ten minutes before the hour.

For the next hour and a half we sat in the back of the tuk-tuk with a gentle breeze blowing at our face. It was a pleasant experience as we rode with the traffic, albeit at a slower pace than the cars. Little by little the bustle of Phnom Penh faded away and the countryside now became our venue. 

Along the way, Thai stopped at a gas station to use the restroom. What we saw next was a surprise. He got off the motorbike and as he walked toward the restroom, we saw that he walked with a huge limp. His right foot, it appeared, pointed outward and was stiff like a board. The poor man was partially crippled. We could see that it was difficult for him to walk. Now we understood why he chose to wait at the tuk-tuk yesterday while we walked around. 

We arrived at a large lake called Tonle Bati. A row of nearly empty wooden huts on stilts sat along the shoreline over the water with small dangling bridges leading to the huts. After relaxing in one of the huts it was decided that we would go on a boat ride around the lake. Since there were only two of us and the boat had room for more, Thai asked if he could come along. Of course I said yes, and at that moment we could see a sparkle in his eye and the exhilaration of a child. 

You see, even though Thai had driven people to this lake before, he had never been on the boat. Even though he lived only a couple hours away from this beautiful place, he could never afford the ride for himself. 

As the driver shuttled us on the water, Thai pulled out his phone and face-timed his daughters. “Look where I'm at!” he said in Khmer. He turned the phone around so Jordan and I could wave to his daughters. It was quite a touching moment. 

The boat ride was a good place for conversation. Although his English was broken, he still spoke well enough to get across his idea. We learned many things about Thai. 

First we learned that he had polio, and that was the reason for his crippled leg. He has five kids and lives in a tiny house. He sleeps on the floor and showers outside using a bucket. He used to own his own tuk-tuk, but during the pandemic he somehow lost it, and now he has to rent one. 

He works hard to make a meager living. He works seven days a week until 9 or 10 in the evening. After work he might read a book or drink a beer. He lives about 8 kilometers out of town and it takes him an hour to drive home. 

He likes both Trump and Biden, but not his own government. He feels his government has done nothing for the people. Nothing has changed in thirty years. 

During our boat ride we stopped at the other side of the lake to walk around an old Buddhist temple and cemetery. Thai, of course, stayed with the boat. It made me think of the unfortunate hand he's been dealt. Not only was he dealing with physical limitations, but also limitations due to the country where he was born. 

After our visit to the lake we drove back toward Phnom Penh. Our second stop would be at the Killing Fields. Anyone familiar with the history of Cambodia will know the devastating story of the Khmer Rouge and the Cambodian Genocide. 

Led by a communist dictator named Pol Pot, over two million people—nearly a fourth of the population—were killed. This happened in the late 1970's. Many were captured and taken to the S-21 Prison in Phnom Penh, then transferred to the Killing Fields where they were executed. 

By this time we were taking a liking to Thai and wanted to support him and his family. We decided to have him take us around the following day, which would be our final day in Cambodia. We had no idea where to go, so we received suggestions from him. 

Once again, promptly at nine o'clock, Thai met us in front of our hotel. It was decided we would go to Oudong, the old capitol of Cambodia. On this day we didn't have many long conversations with Thai. The drive lasted two hours, most of it pleasant except for a brief stint spent in a traffic jam just outside Phnom Penh. 

When we arrived he stayed at the tuk-tuk as usual while we spent a couple hours exploring a small mountain filled with temples, stupas, monks and monkeys. In the end we came off the mountain and found a cemetery tucked behind a monastery. 

Before we left I knew I wanted photos with the three of us. Thai summoned another tuk-tuk driver to take our picture. Thai also wanted to be our friend on Facebook. He pulled out his phone and surprisingly I was able to find my name with a search. This was when I learned that his full name was Thai Son. 

But I also had one last question on my mind. Was he affected by the genocide? 

The atmosphere immediately turned somber and he turned around to face us. We learned that both his parents and a sibling were killed in the genocide. He doesn't remember them. He was just a baby. He was placed in an orphanage where he lived for fifteen years. He said he remembers going to the Killing Fields when he was ten and crying because he was sad. His finger touched his face just below his eye to indicate a tear. He did not know his original name. “Thai” was given to him at the orphanage. 

What a sobering note to end our tour. It brought the genocide closer to home. It also made me wonder how many others were directly affected. 

As I write this I sit at my computer over 8,000 miles away. Thai has reached out on Facebook and we have had a couple small interactions. I will admit that I feel a twinge of guilt living a life of prosperity and in a place that has been relatively peaceful during my lifetime. We have had our share of trials, but nothing near what the entire Khmer people have had to endure. 

But Thai kept a smile. He always seemed to be happy. Although his life situation may somewhat limit him, he had a positive attitude. He had a simple life. He made the most of what he had. There's a lot to be learned from him. ♠