The Princess of Washougal

It is always pleasant to find interesting stories and histories in places we travel. One such saga comes from the small town of Washougal, Washington on the banks of the Columbia River. We passed through after an adventure on the Oregon Coast, spending only one night in Washougal. It wasn't much, but enough to give me a small taste for the setting of this story. 

Across the Columbia River from Washougal is the imposing figure of Mount Hood. This snow-capped dome is mesmerizing and attracts the gaze no matter where you are. The banks of the river are fertile, providing feed for deer and other wildlife. Nearby in the Cascade Mountains are several waterfalls, most of them much less known than their counterparts on the Oregon side of the river. Washougal is considered a gateway to the Columbia River Gorge. 

Washougal is located across the Columbia River from Mount Hood.

Before arrival of Europeans the lower Columbia River was occupied by several different bands of Chinook-speaking Indians. Early explorers classified them as Cascade Peoples. These indigenous groups thrived off salmon from the river. 

This is where our story begins. 

Richard and Betsy (White Wing) Ough.

The leader of the Cascade Indians in this area was a man by the name of Chief Schulyhus. He came from royal lineage. Early Europeans called him “Sly Horse” because they couldn't pronounce his name. His wife, Running Fawn, was from the tribe whose village was in the location of present-day Washougal. 

To this union was born a daughter they named White Wing. I couldn't find much on White Wing's childhood, other than the obvious fact that if her father was a chief, then that made her a princess. It is said of her father that he “held the Cascades and the salmon fisheries on the Columbia River.” 

Washougal is a gateway to the Columbia River Gorge.

One day around 1832, White Wing and her father were catching salmon on the river. She paddled while her father lanced them with a spear. As the story goes, when they looked up they saw, “oh so many canoes coming and lots of white men in them.” They quickly paddled to shore where they considered killing the new intruders. 

One of them, a big man named McLoughlin, stepped forward and said, “No fight. We want to trade. You go and bring plenty good skins and see all the nice things I will give you for them. I got all pretty things what Indians like.” 

This man was Dr. John McLoughlin, a fur trader and officer of the Hudson's Bay Company stationed at Fort Vancouver. But it was the gentleman standing next to him that caught White Wing's attention. He was big also, standing at six foot two and weighing 240 pounds. And he “looked so nice!” His name was Richard Ough. 

Apparently the enchantment was mutual. The two couldn't keep their eyes off one another. Richard wanted to follow White Wing, but didn't in fear of losing his scalp. 

Fertile land as it may have appeared when the Cascade Indians called this home.

A month passed and Richard couldn't get White Wing out of his mind. He mustered the courage to return to the village. Here, it is said, he spent eight days haggling with Chief Schulyhus to take his daughter in marriage. Finally the chief gave in on the condition that he build her a house on the river and stay in the area for all time. 

Richard Ough didn't waste any time. The next day he summoned “100 Indian canoes” and began work on a small log cabin. This cabin was built near Fort Vancouver, which is down-river from present-day Washougal. 

The couple was married, with John McLoughlin performing the ceremony. He used the moment to seal peace between the two groups: “White Wing, this man is a big warrior and a good man. When I make you marry him, the red man and the white man will be brothers. They must live all the time in peace and never fight each other. The Indian must catch plenty salmon and get lots of good furs and trade them to the white man. The white man must get plenty things the Indian likes and always trade fair and never cheat the Indian." 

After many festivities which included singing, dancing, eating, jigging and giving gifts, the couple moved into their little cabin. It was here that they began raising a family. This was the beginning of a relationship that would last more than 50 years. During that time, Richard would call his new wife “Betsy.” 

Roughly eight years later, it was recommended that they move upriver where they could build a house and raise a farm. They bought a piece of land on the north bank of the Columbia River from a struggling Englishman for $45, a saddle horse, and a "baking of bread." This was on the location of present-day Washougal. They were the first settlers on record to have lived there. 

Betsy was known the rest of her life for her generosity. There's a story of a family passing through with two young babies. The mother was too sick to take care of them, so the Ough family took them in for a week to help her recover. On their way out, they gave them the family cow so the young girls could have milk. Betsy always referred to the babies as her "cowgirls."

Betsy and Richard spent the rest of their days in Washougal. She was known as a pioneer doctor and was designated as the community midwife. She also owned many acres of land, which was uncommon in those days for women. Richard and Betsy sold much of their land in what would eventually become the city of Washougal. 

Betsy died around the age of 100 (she didn't know her exact age). She and her husband were buried in the local cemetery. 

Parker's Landing.

Washougal is a laid-back town. Everything seems to slow down a notch on the north side of the river. Our hotel was located near Parker's Landing, just off the bank of the river. This was the location of White Wing's tribal village. 

Parker's Landing is a good place for pedestrians and anyone wanting to sit down and enjoy the breeze. There's a dock, park benches, and grass. From here there is a good view of Mount Hood on the other side of the river. Mount Hood is the tallest peak in Oregon and fourth highest in the Cascades. It is an active volcano, with occasional bits of steam escaping its vents. 

My family was kind enough to let me drive them to another cemetery. We drove north on a quiet street, past the high school, and to a point roughly between the Washougal River and Campen Creek. I'm sure that it looked much different a century ago. 

It didn't take long to find the burial plot for the Ough family. The headstone for Richard had fallen over and had recently been propped back up with a metal brace. Three large cracks revealed where the headstone had broken. Nearby we found the headstone of their daughter, Elizabeth Dunn. Surprisingly, however, there is no grave marker for Betsy. 

Burial plot for Ough family.  There is no headstone for Betsy.

Grave of Richard Ough.

Grave of Elizabeth Dunn, daughter of Richard and Betsy.

I had suspected this from my research, but it still baffled me. I supposed that Betsy White Wing Ough was some sort of historical celebrity in Washougal. But maybe not. I would have thought that by now her descendants, or the city, would have banded together to place a large memorial over her grave. Perhaps someday that will happen. 

I think there is hope. Our travels led to one more place that is attempting to preserve the legacy of Betsy White Wing. 

We left the cemetery and drove down Main Street. I have never seen a Main Street so quiet and dead. No one was out. We turned right, and then another right, and came to another empty road—C Street. We parked in front of the city library. 

On a wall facing the street was painted a large mural: seven white egrets, six of them flying through the sky; five woven baskets sitting on the ground. In the background are clouds, trees, and Native American designs. At the bottom it reads: “Dedicated to Betsy White Wing.” 

The 9 x 25-foot mural was created in 2019 by Toma Villa, an internationally renowned artist from the Yakama Nation. The birds represent White Wing with her grace and beauty. Seven is a significant number in Columbia river longhouses. The birds face east, which is the way the wind blows on the river. The baskets accentuate White Wing as a weaver. 

The artist was inspired by a quote from Richard Ough when describing his feelings for the young princess: “…he thought he could see White Wing in the clouds and in the forest and in his dreams. He said, 'Come pretty bird and fly with me, for I am lonely, and my nest is empty.'” 

View of the Columbia River from Parker's Landing in Washougal, Washington.

For someone just passing through town, I felt I had learned quite a bit about the Princess of Washougal. We drove east on the Lewis and Clark Highway, passing green fields on the bank of the river. In my mind I thought that perhaps this is what it looked like in the early 1800's when White Wing lived in her village. 

As we continued into the Columbia River Gorge, we left Washougal behind—but never will I leave behind the love story of Richard Ough and his White Wing Princess. ♠

 

Mural dedicated to Betsy White Wing, painted by Toma Villa. Located at the city library in Washougal.

 

 

 

Salt Lake City Cemetery

Oh ye mountains high, where the clear blue sky 

Arches over the vales of the free. 

Where the pure breezes blow and the clear streamlets flow, 

How I've longed to your bosom to flee! 

O Zion! Dear Zion! land of the free! 

Now my own mountain home, unto three I have come; 

All my fond hopes are centered in thee.

—Oh Ye Mountains High, by Charles W. Penrose. Included in LDS Hymnal.
 

During July of 1847 the first Mormon wagon trains began rolling down Emigration Canyon of the Wasatch Mountains into the Salt Lake Valley. They had been driven from their homes by mobs in Illinois and Missouri and sought a refuge where they could worship in peace. 

These were hardy and faithful pioneers of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, a religion formed just 15 years earlier by Joseph Smith, a man they revered as Prophet. The young man, Joseph, visited with angels and translated an ancient record that became known as the Book of Mormon. Thousands of converts from the eastern United States and Europe joined the young religion. 

Old church on the south side of the Salt Lake City Cemetery.

Flanked by snow-capped mountains on their eastern edge, they began to build a city. They laid out streets, built small adobe or log homes, diverted water and planted crops. They also began construction of a magnificent temple. This would be a place where the Saints could gather and gain strength. This would be their Zion. 

But as sure as the sun comes up, it didn't take long before the first deaths occurred in the valley. On August 11, three-year old Milton Therlkill drowned in a pond that had been dammed along City Creek. In September, Caroline Grant died of cholera 75 miles east of Salt Lake on her trek west. Her body was brought to the valley for burial. Two weeks later Nancy O'Neil Rich, mother of Charles Rich, died of pneumonia. She is memorialized as the first white woman to die in the valley. They were buried in a field outside the new fort. 

A year later on September 27, 1848, the young daughter of George and Melisssa Wallace passed away. Instead of burying her down by the fort, her father chose to inter her body in a place more secluded on the east bench. The lot was owned by a relative, Daniel Wallace. A month later, an infant son of the Wallace's died and was buried next to his sister. Other people followed suit and soon there were several burials at this site in the foothills. 

In 1849 a committee was selected and it was decided that this site in the foothills would become the permanent city cemetery. George Wallace was appointed sexton. All burials from that time forward were to be interred in the new cemetery. With exception of a few, many of the previous burials were exhumed and relocated to the new burial ground. 

Graves of Francis Armstrong and his family.

Nowadays the Salt Lake City Cemetery is mammoth in size and is one of the largest city-owned cemeteries in the United States. It covers 150 acres and has 9 ½ miles of roads. 

To an outsider, the Salt Lake Cemetery may seem average. But to anyone who has an inkling of the history of the Mormon Church, this cemetery is dense with prominent figures. From Apostles to Prophets, to poets and architects, this cemetery is a treasure trove. 

Until now, I had only been to the cemetery once. That was twenty years ago and I longed to return. On a recent trip to the city, my wife was kind enough to let me visit again. 

The cemetery is located in “The Avenues” of Salt Lake. It's a beautiful area with many old homes and a few steep roads. My father-in-law grew up here. It is a place where people of all faiths, or no faith, can take walks and enjoy the peace. 

I parked on the side of the road and began walking randomly toward the north. The first thing that struck me was how many burials were from the 1800's. A lot! I knew that all these people were pioneers, contributing to the cause in their own special way. 

It didn't take long to find the first familiar name: Truman O. Angell. Anyone who knows just a smidgen of Church History knows that Truman O. Angell was the architect of the Salt Lake Temple, which is probably the most historical structure in Utah. Born in Rhode Island, Angell joined the church at age 23. He quickly immersed himself in the work of the church by serving a mission and helping the construction of some early church buildings. He came west with the Saints, having buried three children along the way. He arrived in the Salt Lake Valley in 1847 and Brigham Young appointed him as the church architect. It is interesting that during the construction of the temple, Young sent him to Europe to study the designs of buildings over there. Consequently, the Salt Lake Temple looks more like a European cathedral than any other temple. Additionally, Angell designed several other buildings and temples for the church. 

Truman O. Angell.

To understand Mormon culture is to understand the reverence that is paid to their leaders. The highest of those leaders is the President of the Church, also known as Prophet, Seer and Revelator. There have only been 17 of them since the founding of the church in 1830. The majority are buried in the Salt Lake City Cemetery. 

As I walked through the stone grave markers I came across several Prophets. The first was Wilford Woodruff, the fourth President of the church, serving until his death in 1898. He was noted for issuing “The Manifesto,” the document which ended plural marriage in the church. 

Grave of Wilford Woodruff, fourth President of the church.

I also passed by the graves of several members of the Smith family, including Joseph F. Smith, his son Joseph Fielding Smith, and a distant cousin, George Albert Smith. All of these are related, but not directly descended from church founder Joseph Smith. 

The tomb of George Albert reads: “He understood and disseminated the teachings of Christ and was uncommonly successful in putting them into practice. He was kindly, patient, wise, tolerant, and understanding. He went about doing good.” 

Graves of Joseph Fielding Smith and family.

George Albert Smith.

With great joy I came across the grave of Thomas S. Monson, sixteenth president of the church. Of all the familiar burials I encountered this day, his was the only one I had seen or met in person. He didn't pass away until 2018. As a friend of my wife's grandmother, he came to her husband's funeral and it was there that I shook his hand. He was a very personable man. 

Graves of Thomas Spencer Monson and wife, Frances.

Although the Prophet Brigham Young was buried separately in a location downtown, one of his plural wives, Harriett Amelia Folsom Young, is buried in the Salt Lake City Cemetery. She died 33 years after her husband and bears a large tombstone over her grave. Tributes describe her as tall, queenly, intelligent, of a fair complexion, and an accomplished pianist and vocalist. 

Another wife of a a famous pioneer was Mary Garn, the wife of Lot Smith (no relation to Joseph). I don't know much about Mary, but Lot was a leader of the Militia and fought in battles against the Indians. He was killed by a Navajo near Tuba City, Arizona in 1892. 

Harriett Amelia Folsom Young, plural wife of Brigham Young.

Buried relatively close to each other are Apostles Orson Pratt and Erastus Snow. It is interesting how the path of these two men intertwined throughout the history of the church. Orson Pratt was the first to join the church. He was ordained an elder and served a mission where he met and taught Erastus Snow. Pratt became an apostle first, being one of the original twelve ordained under the hands of Joseph Smith. He was also a writer, historian, philosopher, and mathematician. In 1847 he used his math skills to design an “odometer” that would measure the distance traveled on the trek west, via the rotation of the wagon wheel. He and Erastus Snow were the first Mormons to enter the Salt Lake Valley, arriving three days ahead of the vanguard group. In 1860 they served a mission together in the Eastern States.

Orson Pratt, one of the original twelve apostles ordained by Joseph Smith.

Erastus Snow.

Another Apostle buried in the Salt Lake Cemetery is George Q. Cannon. The Q stands for “Quayle” and even today in Utah you will occasionally find the same middle name, usually given in honor of George Q. He was one of the first missionaries to the Hawaiian Islands and became an apostle after the murder of Parley P. Pratt. 

In addition to church leaders, there were many headstones honoring those of lay members. One such person that stood out was Moses Deming, who died in 1871. It was obvious that a newer headstone had replaced the older one. His obituary in the Deseret News stated: “He embraced the gospel in Michigan, and has been in Utah about eighteen years. He died in full faith in the gospel and leaves a large family and a numerous circle of friends to deplore his death.” 

George Q. Cannon.

Moses Deming, an ordinary pioneer buried in the Salt Lake City Cemetery.

But of all the graves I sought the most to find in the Salt Lake City Cemetery, it was that of my great-great-great-great-grandfather, John Workman. The only other time I came to this cemetery—20 or so years ago—I came across his grave, feeling lucky to find it out of the thousands. Back then it had the original headstone, falling apart and nearly illegible. Since then they have replaced it. 

John Workman was the first in his family to join the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints. They were living in Overton County Tennessee when two Mormon Elders sought to lodge in their home. Never turning away a traveler in need of food and rest, they welcomed the Elders. John found the message taught by the Elders had struck a familiar chord. 

They were baptized and eventually moved to Nauvoo to join the Saints. There they were persecuted strongly by the mob and eventually his wife, Lydia, succumbed to the persecution and died. She was buried in the Nauvoo Cemetery. 

After being driven from Nauvoo by the mob, John Workman and his family migrated west to the Salt Lake Valley where he died just three years later.  His new headstone lists all 20 of his children! 

Graves of John Workman, Mary Chidester (great-granddaughter), Abram (grandson) and Julia (granddaughter-in-law) Workman.

Salt Lake Temple icon is a popular engraving on LDS headstones.

I continued to wander the cemetery. There was too much to take in and too little time. It was interesting to note that many of the modern headstones had engravings of the Salt Lake Temple, whose designer, Truman O. Angell, was buried just a short distance away. 

Not too far beyond the graves of Mormon pioneers there is a Jewish section. Technically, I believe, it is a different cemetery, named the B'nai Israel Cemetery. There were no fences and no signs to distinguish it from the grander Salt Lake City Cemetery. Here the headstones were marked with different symbolism, usually the Star of David or menorah. Gravestones tended to be placed closer together, similar to those I had seen in pictures of Jewish cemeteries in Eastern Europe. Writing on these markers came in English, Hebrew, and sometimes Arabic. 

It seems like the Jews make their mark just about everywhere, and Utah was no exception. The first Jewish families came to Salt Lake during the 1850's. They built buildings and contributed to the community. In 1869, Brigham Young offered them land for the purpose of constructing a cemetery. From 1917 to 1921, Simon Bamberger, a Jew, was Governor of Utah. He is buried in the B'nai Israel Cemetery. 

The B'Nai Israel Cemetery is located next to the Salt Lake City Cemetery.

Headstone with various languages, including Arabic and Hebrew.

Like I stated earlier, the Salt Lake City Cemetery is huge. I could come back every day for a year and find something new each time. There are other Jewish sections, as well as a Catholic cemetery. An hour and a half was certainly not enough time to see all I wanted. 

Toward the end of my wanderings, I came across the large headstone of another familiar name: Charles W. Penrose. If you recall, at the beginning of this writing I included the first verse of his beloved hymn, Oh Ye Mountains High. Penrose was born in London and joined the church in 1850 at the age of eighteen. He was immediately called to serve a mission in England and it was there that he penned this hymn—before he even set foot in the Salt Lake Valley. He later emigrated to Utah and in 1904 was ordained an Apostle. 

As I left the cemetery, I envisioned it laid out like a giant quilt. It was a patchwork, with everyone faithful and diligent in their own little section, but when sewn together, helping to create something bigger than themselves. I was only able to identify a few of the bigger “patches.” I knew that this cemetery was full of smaller, anonymous patches who came to Zion and did their part, but would never be known but to a few of their own descendants. ♠

 

Grave of Charles W. Penrose.