1,272 steep and grueling steps above
the valley floor sits a shiny golden Buddha that overlooks limestone
cliffs and the distant Andaman Sea. These forested mountains were
once inhabited by tigers and later by monks, who came here to
meditate. It is one of the most sacred Buddhist sites in the area.
There are no longer tigers near the
temple, but plenty of monkeys near the foot of the stairway that
leads to the top of the mountain. There is no particular
building that would be considered “the temple,” but rather, the
whole mountain complex. The most popular trail is one that leads to
the shiny Buddha at the summit, but there is also another path that
is less difficult that leads to a dell encircled by limestone
outcrops. Here there are several caves and cells used by monks.
Tiger Cave Temple, or Wat Tham Suea in
Thai, is located 488 miles south of Bangkok in the Krabi Provence.
From nearby Krabi town, which is only 5 ½ miles away, it is possible
to get here using a combination of
songthaew and motorcycle
taxi. We choose to visit as part of a day tour, which we booked from
our hotel. Our group is very small and our tour-guide gives us a
couple hours to do whatever we would like. Most of us choose to
climb the stairs.
Today is the hottest day of our trip so
far. Thailand is sweltering year-round, and March is especially
scorching. What should you bring? I would suggest comfortable
walking shoes, plenty of water, and modest clothing. We purchased
extra water from a small store near the temple. As with all sacred
Buddhist sites, please wear clothing that will cover your knees and
shoulders.
The stairs to the top are steep, and
seem to become steeper the further you ascend. In some places the
handrails burn my palms. Although there is no drinking water along
the way, there are bathrooms half way up.
The climb to the summit is too much for
Jenelle, as she is sensitive to the heat. She decides to turn around
and wait for me at the bottom.
The ascent will take approximately an
hour, depending on how fit you are. Near the final level, just
before the summit, there is a section where everyone has taken off
their shoes. I remove mine also, as is common practice to show
respect at a Buddhist sanctuary.
From the top, the panorama is
breathtaking. In spite of the constant Asian haze, you can see for
miles in every direction. To the north and west are the iconic limestone
cliffs that give so much beauty to Southern Thailand. To the south
one can see Krabi town, the Andaman Sea, and several of the closer
islands. On the east side are many palm plantations, and south of
them, mangrove forests. Directly below us is the village, the
roofs creating an irregular patchwork.
Other than the large Buddha, there are
also several shrines at the top. Some are miniature figurines with
offerings and incense sticks.
A large bell-shaped chedi competes with
the Buddha as the most prominent object at the summit. A chedi, as it is often
referred to in Thailand, is also known as a stupa. Originally, they
contained the remains of the Buddha, and later they were used to house
the remains of Kings, or an important monk. The shape of the chedi
is patterned after ancient burial mounds. As for the one here, I
don't know whether or not it contains the bones or ashes of anyone.
Regardless, it is an important structure within the Thai temple
complex.
Because there is no one to monitor
dress, not many of the visitors are dressed properly. Most wear
shorts or sleeveless shirts. One man is shirtless. A Chinese woman
uses a sarong to cover her high-cut shorts. In spite of their
modesty or lack of it, most show respect. Some kneel down at the Buddha and others
give offerings.
The trek down the mountain is far
easier than the hike up. I am pleased to find Jenelle at the bottom
and she has apparently found a vendor of ice-cold fruit smoothies, or
in Thailand known simply as shakes. These shakes are ubiquitous and
bring much needed relief on sultry days. We don't explore any other
trails because we know our tour-guide will be waiting for us.
It is refreshing to find a religious
sanctuary in Southern Thailand, which is often dominated with secular
beaches. Wat Tham Suea is definitely worth the stop.
♠
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