Ensign Peak

Before the Saints had left Nauvoo, the martyred prophet, Joseph Smith, appeared to Brigham Young in a vision and showed him the place where the banner of liberty should be flown. As Brigham entered the Salt Lake Valley on July 24, 1847, still suffering from mountain fever, he reportedly said, “This is the place.” And pointing to a knoll on the northern end of the valley he indicated that he wanted to go there, it being the same place shown to him in the vision.

Two days later, Brigham Young and a party of seven other men climbed the small summit. From there they used field glasses to make a careful survey of the mountains, canyons, and streams, and discussed plans for their new city.

The knoll of 1847 was probably more prominent than the knoll of 2016—perhaps because it is now abutted on one side by sprawling homes of Salt Lake City, where it is not too far north of the State Capitol Building. I am here with my family as we find a parking spot along Ensign Vista Drive.

Sundown is approaching, and I was worried that we wouldn't make it here in time. Next to the road are concrete stairs leading to three flag poles and a small memorial park. I wish I had time to read the plaques, but time is of the essence, and we must march on.

As you might be able to tell, we are hiking to Ensign Peak, which is above us to the northwest. The path quickly turns to dirt and gravel as we ascend the hill and arrive at our first viewpoint, which offers a fine view of downtown Salt Lake, and the peak directly behind us.

The trail, which of course didn't exist in 1847, runs along the east flank of the knoll, and then switches back and forth up the backside of the hill. The kids don't seem to mind the climb, and neither do our two schnauzers, who don't get out like this too often. Within ten minutes, we are at the top.

Although not as high as the taller slopes, Ensign Peak displays an excellent panorama of the Salt Lake Valley, from the Great Salt Lake and airport in the west to the Wasatch range in the east, with its striking summits. We catch the view just before sunset and watch silhouetted jets take off over the lake. The dome of the Capitol Building poses prominently below us, and just beyond are the skyscrapers of downtown. Among the buildings are the iconic spires of the Salt Lake Temple, as well as the round roof of the Tabernacle. In typical Utah fashion, all the streets are in straight grids, the most pronounced one being State Street, which stretches south as far as we can see.

It is difficult to imagine what the view looked like when Brigham Young and party stood here 169 years ago. City Creek would have ran below them on their left into a barren valley. On that day they may have tied a yellow bandanna onto a cane and waved it as a symbolic gesture. Within a few weeks, the American flag was hoisted on the summit.

For the Mormons, the idea of an ensign waving for all to see was not only literal, but also symbolic—they believed they were fulfilling prophecy. The scripture in Isaiah 11:12 reads: “And he shall set up an ensign for the nations, and shall assemble the outcasts of Israel, and gather together the dispersed of Judah from the four corners of the earth.” And hence the name of this little hummock became known as Ensign Peak.

The first flagpole was erected on the summit in 1897, and that year it was designated by the Utah leaders as an official place to display American and state flags. It is also possible that the “flag of the kingdom” was flown on Ensign Peak. Although never with a formalized pattern, it had twelve blue and white stripes, and one or more blue stars.

For me, our hike to the top of Ensign Peak has an additional meaning.

One of the great anthems of the Mormon church is the hymn, “High on the Mountain Top.” The words to this hymn were inspired by the view and symbolism of Ensign Peak, and will forever be associated with this flag-bearing knoll. The song was written by my fourth great-grandfather, Joel Hills Johnson.

A few years after the Saints had settled in the Salt Lake Valley, Joel established a sawmill in Mill Creek Canyon, some ten miles from the center of town. Sawing lumber was Joel's “calling” in the church, and he would bring his load to the tithing office to assist with the building of the church. In lieu of wages, he was allowed to collect food for his family from the storehouse.

Joel Hills Johnson

As he made his trip down from the sawmill, he often thought of the flag on Ensign Peak. As he drew closer, the sight of the flag on the knoll reminded him that he was almost home. Joel's grandson, Bernard A. Johnson, was told the story by his grandmother:

“In the early spring of 1850, Joel loaded up a load of prime lumber and headed for the tithing office. As he headed into the lot that housed this office, he noticed that there were several other wagon loads of tithing offerings ahead of him. He stopped his team, unhitched the horses and turned them into Brother Brigham's pasture, and sat down to wait his turn to unload.

“Being a warm spring day, Joel sought the shady side of his wagon, leaned back against the wheel and waited. As was his habit, he pulled out a piece of paper and prepared to write. He found himself thinking about the breeze and how it must be making 'Old Glory' ripple. In his mind he pictured how it must look there on the top of the peak under the clear blue sky as it waved and fluttered in the breeze. His mind painted such a wonderful picture.

“Almost as if written by unseen hands, words began to appear on the paper.”

The song that Johnson penned, “High on the Mountain Top,” was originally titled “Deseret.” It is interesting that Joel's most popular and revered poetry is not mentioned in his journal. Although his diary is meshed with many small poems and accounts from his life, the origin of this song is omitted.

After writing the poem, Joel folded the paper and placed it in his pocket before delivering his load to the tithing office. He later showed the poem to John Taylor, who was then an Apostle in the church. Elder Taylor liked it so much that he asked to keep it. The poem was later put to music written by Ebenezer Beesley, and quickly became a favorite hymn among members of the church. Only four of the six verses are used in the present-day hymn book.

At the top of the peak there is a plaque commemorating Joel Hills Johnson. I motion over my kids and together we read the words that honor our ancestor.

By now, the lights of Salt Lake City are emerging, including the dome on the Capitol Building, and the illuminated spires of the temple. State Street lights up like a snake that stretches nearly to the south end of the valley at Point of the Mountain. There are a few lingering souls with us, watching the same sweeping panorama, and breathing in the same summer air. I have to wonder if they, too, are making the same pilgrimage, and perhaps they are my distant cousins. ♠

High on the Mountain Top

“High on the mountain top,

A banner is unfurled.

Ye nations now look up;

It waves to all the world.”

In Deseret's sweet, peaceful land-

On Zion's mount behold it stand!

For God remembers still

His promise made of old

That He on Zion's hill

Truth's standard would unfold!

Her light should there attract the gaze

Of all the world in latter days.

His house shall there be reared

His glory to display

And people shall be heard

In distant lands to say

We'll now go up and serve the Lord,

Obey His truth, and learn His word.

For there we shall be taught

The law that will go forth,

With truth and wisdom fraught

To govern all the earth;

Forever there His ways we'll tread

And save ourselves and all our dead.

Then hail to Deseret!

A refuge for the good,

And safety for the great,

If they but understood.

That God with plagues will shake the world

Till all its thrones shall down be hurled.

In Deseret doth truth

Rear up its royal head;

Though nations may oppose,

Still wider it shall spread;

Yes, truth and justice, love and grace,

In Deseret find ample place.

Profile of Salt Lake City and Ensign Peak, looking toward the west,