A Sampling of Cambodian Cuisine

We arrived in Phnom Penh just before dusk and by the time we left the hotel to find dinner the streets were dark and a cloud burst had just erupted. With umbrellas overhead we walked and walked trying to find a place to eat, but most who were outdoors had already closed shop.

We finally found a place protected beneath a canopy and sat down to a menu. I will admit that my knowledge of Cambodian food was next to nothing. I glanced over my options and decided on a rice-porridge dish that included liver, heart, shrimp and cuttlefish. I felt it would be a great introduction. Jordan, on the other hand, played it safe and ordered a more conventional noodle dish. Our meal cost 34,000 riels.

I don't remember much about how the food tasted, but rather another incident that took place during our meal. Three young school kids came to our table, stood in front with their hands pressed together, apparently begging for money. This went on for two minutes until the owner shooed them away. Begging, I would learn, became a typical scene in Cambodia.

First meal in Phnom Penh.

Four days were all we had in the “Land of the Khmers,” and we wanted to make the most of it. That included a desire to sample as much food as possible. But I was soon to learn that there would be less learning of Cambodian cuisine (it all looked so similar and was indistinguishable from other Southeast Asian food with my untrained eye) and more enjoying the experience while eating it.

A similar scene unfolded the following evening. Now the rain had stopped and puddles of water sat in potholes, reflecting neon lights of the city. We spotted a restaurant across the road, and as we crossed we startled a large street rat.

The place was small and dingy, with buckets and a cooler stacked near the entrance. There was only one other table with guests. This truly was a hole-in-the-wall restaurant . . . and that was how I preferred it.

The food was good. I ordered the pork and noodle soup. Although it had a pleasing taste, I didn't know if it would have tasted any different than a pork and noodle soup from Vietnam or Thailand. The noodles were the thin angel hair kind. It had a couple slices of pork and three pork balls. There was a slice of carrot, as well as the usual handful of greens adorning a savory broth. But the thing that made the evening so memorable was the cockroach crawling on the wall next to us!

A dingy hole-in-the-wall restaurant. 

Pork and noodle soup.

Phnom Penh did not have the street food I thought it would. I expected something similar to Bangkok. Perhaps this was because we were there during monsoon season. But that's not to say there was no street food. We just found it in pockets.

We wandered around the street carts to assess our options. Alongside the many foods I did not know were two that stood out: deep fried frogs, and birds on a skewer. The frogs were not just the legs, but the whole body without the head. Two frogs adorned each skewer. The birds, on the other hand, came with the head, beak and everything else. We didn't buy either, but I would have if I had more time.

Instead I bought other meats on a skewer, and sweet rice wrapped up in a thin tortilla-like cover. We took our food in a little baggie to our hotel and took the elevator to the “sky bar.” We were the only ones there. I don't remember much about the food we ate, but rather of the view we had while we ate. Before us stood the jumbled cityscape of Phnom Penh with colorful roofs below and a birds-eye view of random skyscrapers. In the distance loomed heavy storm clouds that would soon burst in a downpour that would last all night long.

Frogs and birds on a skewer.

Dinner with a view!

We found this very refreshing sugar cane drink.

Speaking of our hotel (which was only $36 a night), it was one of the best I've ever stayed in. Not only did it have a nice view of the city, but a rooftop pool, four jacuzzis (all a different temperatures from cold to hot), and a piping hot sauna. They also had an excellent breakfast buffet. There was an ample selection of eggs, toast, pastries, salad, and noodle soup (kuyteav). An on-site chef with a very tall hat stood ready to customize the noodle soup.

My favorite, however, was bobor, a rice congee dish that is very popular in Cambodia. This was very similar to the porridge dish I had on my first night, but this one had a better savory broth with more garnishes to sprinkle on top. Bobor has a long history in Cambodia, dating back at least 1,000 years.

Kuyteav, a noodle soup often eaten for breakfast.

Bobor.

Garnishments for the bobor.

On our final night in Phnom Penh we went to the night market, which was located across the quay, near the Tonle Sap river. We walked through stalls selling shirts, purses, crafts and a thousand other items.

On the far end we came to the food court where aromatic stalls lined the perimeter. One thing that made this food court unique was that there were no tables and chairs. Instead, colorful mats were laid on the ground, each with its own basket of condiments.

Jordan and I ordered some food and sat on the ground like we were having a picnic. I don't know how common it is to eat on the floor, but I believe it is practiced throughout Southeast Asia.

I ordered the lort cha with beef, a stir-fry using short thick rice noodles topped with an egg. It was fried with garlic, bean sprouts and other greens, and was served on a bed of lettuce. The dish came with a small side of chili oil.

Afterward we ordered a plate of kebabs.  We chose what we wanted, and they deep-fried it for us.  I will admit that I didn't know what any of them were. One looked like an egg and another we guessed was tofu.

Lort cha with beef.

Deep-fried something on a skewer.

Reflecting back on that evening I can remember what the food looked like (probably because I took pictures), but not how it tasted. But I will forever remember the atmosphere⸺the night market, the mats on the floor, the mystique of being in a foreign land.

Shortly after finishing our meal they began rolling up the mats and setting up tables and chairs. My guess is that they did this for the evening influx, the chairs and tables being able to accommodate more people.

The other thing that made that evening memorable was the rain that began to fall shortly after we left the market. We had a mile-walk to reach our hotel. I used an umbrella, but Jordan chose to get soaked. We ended our time in Phnom Penh exactly how we began it⸺in the rain. ♠

Eating dinner at the night market in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Rocktop Ruin

Rocktop Ruin.

Several years ago I came across an interesting complex of ruins at the top of a deep canyon. One of the ruins stood perched atop and fastened to a solid slab of rock. Below the ruin, on the rock, were etched ancient writings.

I longed to descend below the rim of the canyon and investigate this curious little ruin, but there was only one problem. A solid stripe of sheer cliff prevented me from getting down. Yes, it was only about a thirty foot drop, but I had no rope and it was far enough I didn't want to risk trying to climb down.

I could have returned with a rope, but I decided instead (several years later) to tackle the ruin from the bottom. It would require a long drive on a dirt road, and then at least a four-mile hike over rugged terrain. What else would I find?

This ruin was built in the seam of a rock.

It was a perfect fall morning in late October when I set out. Leaves on the few cottonwood trees had turned yellow and the expanse of sky was completely blue.

Just thirty minutes into the hike I entered a short canyon and found a small overhang with ruins inside. The ruins were built inside a seam or crevice of the cliff, one of them out of reach unless you had a ladder. A rudimentary wall was built as a façade to create an enclosure within the crevice.

This canyon was short-lived and I found myself on a ridge, poking my way toward my destination. In the distance I could see my goal, but between me and it were a myriad of canyons and cliffs, and I didn't want to get into a situation that blocked my travel.

I was amazed at the amount of red rocks stewn everywhere on the hilltops. Most of these were fist-sized or smaller, but many were as big as a basketball. I believe they were chert.

Red rocks strewn everywhere.

Twice I came across ground that looked to me like it might contain ruins below the surface. The ground appeared unnatural, usually in mounds. However there was no other evidence, such as arranged rocks or pottery, to confirm that there were buried ruins. I knew that out here there were probably thousands of mysteries below the surface, which will probably be buried forever.

After several hours of meandering over hills and across canyons, I finally found the drainage that correlated with the ruin I was searching for. I followed it up-canyon until finally it came to a steep boulder-strewn hill that led to the ruins. This was the toughest part of the whole hike because not only was the ascent intense, but it also included finding a feasible route to the top.

Working up a hill tangled in brush and boulders. 

I scaled gigantic boulders and scraped my arms pushing through branches of juniper trees. Over the course of the next 45 minutes I slowly worked my way up 700 feet of tangled scrub toward the top. At last I arrived at the ruins.

The structures were built beneath an alcove, with two rooms in the structure, an inside wall separating them. The left room had one window and one short door, with the part of the outside wall that met the cliff no longer extant. Inside, the ceiling and back wall (cliff) were covered in black soot. Above and to the left of the door, embedded into the front wall, was a small square hole. Perhaps this was used as a spy hole, but it was too close to the ceiling to shoot an arrow from. 

Finally at the ruin.

Soot on the inside of the ruin.

In front of the door was a peculiar ring of rocks. They were not mudded together, nor were they partially buried in the ground. Did the Anasazi build this or was it placed together at a later date?

The room on the right side was less impressive. It had one door and nothing else that piqued my interest other than a corn cob that sat on the ground amidst animal droppings.

A curious ring of rocks in front of the ruin.

An 800-year old corn cob. 

The most fascinating part of the complex, however, was the ruin fastened atop the rock. I discovered that this was not a room at all, but more of a façade. I suppose someone could have taken shelter behind it, but that would have made no sense since they could just as easily have gone inside a room. The rock seemed to have another mysterious purpose.

The wall was very well crafted, with mud adhering the individual rocks. It was obvious that fingers were used smooth the mud while it was wet.

Adding to the mystique of this wall were the petroglyph figurines carved into the rock it sat on. The dominant feature was two vertical zig-zag lines. Between the two lines were two four-legged animals and what looked to me like a bird man. The images above them appeared like an insect flying, an indistinguishable marking, and three claw-like scratches. Of course, all these could have been something completely different than what I perceived them to be. As to what they meant, I wasn't even going to begin to attempt a guess.

In addition to those markings, there were others on the rock that appeared like a four-horned animal, an anthropomorphic man, a fat bird, as well as several other small or faint etchings. The combination of the non-practical wall with the enigmatic writings created a captivating subject. Could this have served a ceremonial or religious purpose?

Rocktop ruin (with a wide-angle lens).

Close-up of the petroglyphs.

I mentioned how I came across this ruin several years ago from the top. It is interesting to note that on the mesa, not too far from this alcove, is the rubble from several circular and square structures. I would dare say it was the dwelling for a very small village, or perhaps several families or a clan. The circular foundations could have been part of a tower. What was the relationship between the ruins above and the ruins below?

The inhabitants of these ancient dwellings, whom I prefer to call Anasazi, were a fascinating group of people. Their ruins are scattered everywhere in the canyons and on the mesas of this beautiful area that I call home. We like to speculate on who they were and what their lives were like, but I honestly believe that we know only a fraction of the truth. ♠

House with a view!

It was dark by the time I arrived in camp. (This picture was taken an hour before I got  back.)